LED's installs - Lets see 'em - Page 2 - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #21  
Old March 8th, 2007, 02:52 PM
BarryO
Status: Offline
Barry O'Mahony
97 D-90 SW LE
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 281
ECR has them back in stock!! They also updated their webpage. 'just ordered a set of the no-plug units. I've had problems with the connectors as well - the downside of living on an unpaved road in a wet state - I get alot of mud kicked up there. I know how to make a waterproof soldered connection, so that'll end that problem.

Follow-up Post:

Another approach that fixes both the both-sides-flashing issue and the flasher problem is to put some power resistors in parallel with the LED lights. Inelegant, but it should work.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #22  
Old March 8th, 2007, 05:07 PM
BarryO
Status: Offline
Barry O'Mahony
97 D-90 SW LE
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 281
In other words, if you put one of these between the stop light wire and ground on each side, it'll draw enough current that it will look like the old incandescents are still installed:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=family

The trick is finding a place to put them, and installing them, where they won't be exposed to the elements, and where they won't short out against the sheet metal.
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old March 8th, 2007, 06:01 PM
artm
Status: Offline
Arthur Maravelis
97 SW
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Boston, MA USA
Posts: 985
So, after all the expense and this lingering bug you ended up with lights that have the ghastly LED look?

...or do they look better in real life than in the pics?
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #24  
Old March 8th, 2007, 06:58 PM
JimC's Avatar
JimC
Status: Offline
Jim Cheney
NAS 110 #145
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Stuttgart, Germany
Posts: 7,154
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by artm
So, after all the expense and this lingering bug you ended up with lights that have the ghastly LED look?

...or do they look better in real life than in the pics?
Dont be a hater.

Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old March 8th, 2007, 11:36 PM
4x4sche
Status: Offline
john
73 SIII_ 97 D90_94 Disco
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: wa usa
Posts: 34
Arthur:
All these issues only occur is you have installed both front and rear flashers, anyway despite your opinion I like the way the LEDS look...they go with my perfect looking LED 3rd brake light which is 10 times better than the original piece of crap.

Barry O is correct, but it the resistors should be on the flasher circuits......you could make up a pair of resistors onto a trailer lighting connector and plug them into the trailer lighting socket (only if you have one).
When you plug in a trailer, its lights will have the same effect.

One additional issue to encourage the cynics is that I found that the box that combines the flasher and brake light signals into one trailer circuit, also causes the flashers to glow dimly when the brakes are applied. This can be remedied by installing a better quality unit. I will post more on this later.

In support of Jim Cheney. I have not one ounce of regret that he got me into this project. I'd rather play with my Rover than watch TV.

John
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old March 8th, 2007, 11:41 PM
Stmpede's Avatar
Stmpede
Status: Offline
Andrew Najarian
'93 NAS D110 #43
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 2,459
That reminds me of the shirt - "I'd rather push a rover than drive a Jeep!"
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old March 9th, 2007, 01:15 AM
BarryO
Status: Offline
Barry O'Mahony
97 D-90 SW LE
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 281
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4sche
Barry O is correct, but it the resistors should be on the flasher circuits......you could make up a pair of resistors onto a trailer lighting connector and plug them into the trailer lighting socket (only if you have one).
When you plug in a trailer, its lights will have the same effect.
Duh. I forgot they were separate on a Land Rover. Unfortunately it's past the time when I can edit the orginal post. It should read:

Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryO
In other words, if you put one of these between the flasher light wire and ground on each side, it'll draw enough current that it will look like the old incandescents are still installed:...
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old March 9th, 2007, 09:10 PM
LRNAD90's Avatar
LRNAD90
Status: Offline
Scott T
1995 Defender 90 ST
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,265
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4sche
Arthur:they go with my perfect looking LED 3rd brake light which is 10 times better than the original piece of crap.John
Hey John,

Can you elaborate please? I was just starting to look for a way to go LED with my Third Brake light!
__________________
~Scott T.
'95 D-90 ST - AA Yellow
"If you're not living on the edge, you're taking up too much space!"


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old March 9th, 2007, 09:33 PM
4x4sche
Status: Offline
john
73 SIII_ 97 D90_94 Disco
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: wa usa
Posts: 34
I got an LED 3rd light (20 leds) from JC Whitney for about 20 bucks. I have a Station Wagon (=Hard Top) so it sticks to the inside of the back window, just like the original. It is about 1/3 of the depth of the original and weighs much less so it will stay put.

John
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old March 10th, 2007, 10:56 AM
LRNAD90's Avatar
LRNAD90
Status: Offline
Scott T
1995 Defender 90 ST
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,265
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4sche
I got an LED 3rd light (20 leds) from JC Whitney for about 20 bucks. I have a Station Wagon (=Hard Top) so it sticks to the inside of the back window, just like the original. It is about 1/3 of the depth of the original and weighs much less so it will stay put.

John
Hey John,

Thanks for the response, I didn't realize you had a SW. I have a ST, and I was looking for replacements for the incandescent bulbs in the third brake light, to have them consistent with the LED tail lamps. The biggest thing to me is that the turn on/turn off is noticeably faster with the LEDs than the incandescents, so I was looking to try to make it more uniform. Anybody else solved this already?
__________________
~Scott T.
'95 D-90 ST - AA Yellow
"If you're not living on the edge, you're taking up too much space!"


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #31  
Old March 11th, 2007, 03:28 AM
BarryO
Status: Offline
Barry O'Mahony
97 D-90 SW LE
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 281
This is a good point, I forgot about this. It so happens my 3rd light just burned out.

I ordered an LED drop-in replacement. I'll post back how well it works.
Reply With Quote
  #32  
Old March 11th, 2007, 10:39 AM
Shake
Status: Offline
Bob Hanson AKA Two-Socks
Red 94 D-90 #428
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Aurora, CO
Posts: 182
Anybody successfully convert a 1994 ST to use the 1995 and onward REAR tail lights? All 5?
__________________
"I ain't lost!!, ain't NEVER been lost...<Scratching head>Been a might confused fur a few hours...but I ain't never been lost."
Reply With Quote
  #33  
Old March 11th, 2007, 11:52 AM
JimC's Avatar
JimC
Status: Offline
Jim Cheney
NAS 110 #145
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Stuttgart, Germany
Posts: 7,154
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shake
Anybody successfully convert a 1994 ST to use the 1995 and onward REAR tail lights? All 5?
Whats the challenge with that anyway? The bodywork or the wiring? Something else?
Reply With Quote
  #34  
Old March 11th, 2007, 01:16 PM
themaxx's Avatar
themaxx
Status: Offline
Ade
94 ST
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: MD
Posts: 1,835
Registry
For me it's the bodywork. I haven't had a chance yet, but that's my curiousity. Will special holes need to be drilled, is there a square indentation on the 94s, round ones on the 95/97s?
__________________
"It insists upon itself" Family Guy
"Your Defender insists upon itself" Dave Parker
Reply With Quote
  #35  
Old March 11th, 2007, 02:05 PM
JimC's Avatar
JimC
Status: Offline
Jim Cheney
NAS 110 #145
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Stuttgart, Germany
Posts: 7,154
Registry
I dont have a 94 yet, I'd have to see a pic. The LED's are totally flush, so the only thing you would need would be holes to pass the connectors through. I dont know what the metal on a 94 looks like. Unless there are some bigass holes behind the lights, then I would think it would be as simple as attaching the 95 light plinths and then attaching the lights. I dont know if any fasteners would remain exposed from the previous set up.
Reply With Quote
  #36  
Old March 11th, 2007, 06:32 PM
Gkase's Avatar
Gkase
Status: Offline
George Kase
1983 110 200Tdi CSW LHD
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Glenview, IL, USA
Posts: 503
I did the 94-95 conversion

On one of my previous 94 D-90s I installed stock 95 rear lamp pods...as I recall, I had to cut the sheet metal back there by enlarging the holes to fit the rears of the 95 lamps into the body work...the left side was a little tricky since part of the roll bar is pretty much in the way, but it can be kludged in there...if the new LED pods mount flush to the body and not through it (except for the wiring) it should be a piece of cake to make your 94 look like a 95...
George
Reply With Quote
  #37  
Old March 11th, 2007, 08:25 PM
Stmpede's Avatar
Stmpede
Status: Offline
Andrew Najarian
'93 NAS D110 #43
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 2,459
Well, during the rebuild I have removed the lights from my 110 and assuming they are the same as a '94 D90, the metal is completely flush and there is one bolt hole for each light and one larger hole for the wiring on each side. My guess is that you will need to drill a couple new holes to mount, but I don't think you'll have any problems with holes being left uncovered.
Reply With Quote
  #38  
Old March 11th, 2007, 08:49 PM
themaxx's Avatar
themaxx
Status: Offline
Ade
94 ST
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: MD
Posts: 1,835
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stmpede
Well, during the rebuild I have removed the lights from my 110 and assuming they are the same as a '94 D90, the metal is completely flush and there is one bolt hole for each light and one larger hole for the wiring on each side. My guess is that you will need to drill a couple new holes to mount, but I don't think you'll have any problems with holes being left uncovered.
Thanks!
__________________
"It insists upon itself" Family Guy
"Your Defender insists upon itself" Dave Parker
Reply With Quote
  #39  
Old March 11th, 2007, 09:25 PM
Stmpede's Avatar
Stmpede
Status: Offline
Andrew Najarian
'93 NAS D110 #43
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 2,459
BTW, it isn't unlikely that they won't want to come off. There is a captive bolt on the inside but it is captive in plastic! When I took mine out I think only one or two came out correctly and I had to break the plastic surrounding the bolt head and put a wrench on it to get them loose (and then at least two broke!) Just be aware that they are likely to be difficult. There is also probably a lot of muc built up behind the panel and covering the nuts on the inside of the body, so you'll have to scrape that away to find them.
Reply With Quote
  #40  
Old March 12th, 2007, 06:11 PM
Chaucer
Status: Offline
Will
93 110 | 97 90
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: WA
Posts: 583
Also regular bulb/lens holders were supposedly a problem on '93s and '94s:

http://www.eastcoastrover.com/LED.html

"Previously this 1995-1997 light conversion was very difficult to do on a 1993 NAS 110, or early 1994 NAS Defender 90 because the roll cage supports were located directly behind the stop/tail lights. The factory 1995-1997 lights were too deep to work correctly and they would hit the roll cage support before they could be fully seated. The LED has no depth problem so they work perfectly with the factory roll cage suppports in place on both the 1993 NAS110 and the early 1994 NAS D90. So now you can give your 90 or 110 an updated look with the benefit of LED lamps as well."
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
7inch DOT approved LEDs ini88 Misc. Chit-Chat 7 June 26th, 2009 05:30 PM
D90 wheels and tires - free if you pick em up canigo For Sale - Parts 2 June 9th, 2009 09:36 AM
Trucklite LEDs 61rover Defender Technical Discussions 22 May 9th, 2009 12:30 PM
Parting out a 97 SW Auto SafariHP The Vendors Loft 50 March 23rd, 2009 10:35 AM
LED replacements: class 101 input discussion pls paulb Misc. Chit-Chat 7 March 18th, 2005 05:15 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:25 PM.


Copyright