Led Turn Signal Question - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old August 22nd, 2017, 08:38 PM
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Robert Lynch
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Led Turn Signal Question

<i did a search but this topic is all over the place>

Setup
LED's installed in all rear turn signals - WiPac Adjustable Flasher installed (all from MudUK) the SVX style (which are actually Dun-Bri group lights, part #'s Below, same as the ECR "kit" in looks and have the correct connectors)

Fronts are Dun-Bri FL-25 ED and the Wipac marker lights.

Other info - my ARB bar turn signals are wired into the front indicators and are normal bulbs, the left one is burned out which was on my list of things to fix.

When i plug in either front turn signal LED - it doesn't work - rears work fine. Even after adjusting the signal flasher.

So i need load resistors right? or am i missing something (i doubt the burned out bulb on the left side would cause the same issue on the right for instance)

Dun-Bri part #'s

Stop/Tail light - 542.053 LED Stop/Tail with Econoseal
Turn Signals 542.057 LED FL25 ED with Econoseal
Reverse: 542.055 LED 12v Reverse with Econoseal


Thanks
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  #2  
Old August 22nd, 2017, 09:23 PM
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Mike
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I would take the ARB turn signals out of the equation and try and get the front LEDs to work first then add the ARB signals back in. Check your wiring real good, a bad ground or previous re-routing or connecting of the wires can cause the LEDs to not work. Regular bulbs are alot more tolerant to wiring issues where as LEDs are not.
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Old August 23rd, 2017, 12:47 AM
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I installed mine with the load resistors (it worked like a champ on the JK) and they wouldn't flash until I added the adjustable flasher unit. Zack at RN said some trucks needed both and others didn't with the same light kits.
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  #4  
Old August 23rd, 2017, 02:21 AM
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Marthijn Holsteijn
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messure

Hi,

I would messure if you have absolutely 12v at the end.

Wiring looms and corrosion is a common problem after 25 years.

also add a temporarily earth to see if it makes a difference
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Old August 23rd, 2017, 06:45 AM
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2nd the suggestion to check the grounds / run a temporary line to a known good ground. It seems like the old style bulbs can share a common ground if they are on a circuit, but because of polarity requirements the LEDs can't. Also remove the tell-tale light in your dash as it can cause unexpected current pass-through on some of the older trucks (you can always put it back in later and see if problems arise). I had to install a diode to control current direction for mine.
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Old August 23rd, 2017, 07:54 AM
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A few questions:

1. Is this a new install and all worked properly prior to the led install? (Best to fix all problems and have a properly functioning system prior to making the change)

2. Have you verified that the leds actually work? (If they work connected to a battery charger you have verified both the led works and the polarity is correct as you never want to assume the wire color or marking in the led are accurate)

3. Do you have 12v at the connector? (If so and number 2 is verified there is no reason the led won't light, the led should always light as load resistors and all these other suggestions are to make them flash)
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  #7  
Old August 23rd, 2017, 08:12 AM
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Sounds like a weak ground.

Like others said, make a good one and test the lights.
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Old August 23rd, 2017, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DC_Bear View Post
It seems like the old style bulbs can share a common ground if they are on a circuit, but because of polarity requirements the LEDs can't.
Fake news!

Actually the common ground isn't the issue on old style bulbs vs LED. Usually you can light a traditional bulb with backfeeding (especially if they are grounding to something like the body panels) but LEDs just won't work as they only work when wired correctly and backfeeding isn't possible
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  #9  
Old August 23rd, 2017, 09:21 AM
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Robert Lynch
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always interesting...

the old lights work perfect - and are reinstalled at present.

I get both my blinker and trailer dash lights when i use the turn signals (the trailer blink is due to the AB trailer wiring converter same as all Bulbs..

I think i'll go with check the grounds and add in load resistors as the next steps

Grounds could be an issue - i just don't think ALL of them would have the same problem (were talking about Marker lights and Blinkers after all) so i am leaning twords load resistors and pulling the trailer dash bulb.


i'll report back
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