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  #1  
Old January 31st, 2015, 07:44 PM
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LED light install questions

All:

I have a set of LED turn signals, side lights & brake lights for my Ninety. Questions;

-Can I still access the relay to swap the new one in with an Ashcroft console?

-Do I need to swap the fender marker lights for LED also?

-Anything else I need to know before swapping the lights over?

Thanks in advance.

Paul.
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  #2  
Old January 31st, 2015, 07:53 PM
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It'll be a pain to get to the relay, since it's usually sandwiched between the fuse panel bracket and the bulkhead. You may find that it'll be easier to just pull the console. There's no need to swap the side markers unless you just want the consistency of having LED's all around. It's a very straight-forward job...I just did a set of the Perei LED's on a 95ST yesterday in about an hour.

-Ash
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  #3  
Old January 31st, 2015, 07:55 PM
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Thanks Ash!

Will I need to re-wire anything since my D90 is an '85? I don't remember if I have connectors behind the fenders. This was also of assistance;



Thanks,

Paul.

------ Follow up post added January 31st, 2015 04:58 PM ------

Next question:

Is there an LED bulb available for the rear fog lamp?

Thanks,

Paul.
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Current fleet: '85 Ninety 3.9 V8i Auto SW, two Discovery 1's (one for my Nephew, one for my Niece),'07 BMW 335Xi.
Past Land Rovers: '96 Discovery SD, '00 Range Rover HSE, '04 Discovery SE7, '07 Range Rover HSE, '08 LR3 SE7.
Past fleet: '89 Classic Mini, '83 Porsche 911 SC Coupe, '89 911 Carrera targa, '96 911 Carrera 4, '07 Toyota FJ Cruiser, several Minis.
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  #4  
Old January 31st, 2015, 08:00 PM
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You will have to wire in connectors. So hopefully you bought those. You will have to drill holes for the mounting screws. They are designed to fit into the 300tdi era trucks so the mourning and connectors are different.
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  #5  
Old January 31st, 2015, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul K View Post
Thanks Ash!

Will I need to re-wire anything since my D90 is an '85? I don't remember if I have connectors behind the fenders. This was also of assistance;



Thanks,

Paul.

It depends on the lights you're running, but the WIPAC and Perei LED's I have installed in the past just have bare wires on them, so I typically add connectors to them. On your truck you ought to just have bullet connectors that your existing lights are plugged into, although it's not often that you see a setup that hasn't been buggered with since the bullets lose connectivity over the years, so it's tough to say exactly what you'll have going on. Personally I'd buy a handful of superseal connectors and use them for a solid connection that is easily removable.

-Ash
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  #6  
Old February 1st, 2015, 07:26 AM
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ECR's site has a write up on their site on switching the relay over with that console installed.
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  #7  
Old February 1st, 2015, 11:01 AM
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I would recommend buying the harness adaptors from Rovers North. With those you simply unplug the bullet connector and plug in the new bits. As far as the side repeaters go I would advise against LED. If you do the dash indicator will stop working and that is due to the way it is wired and will require a wiring change and the addition of some diodes to make it work correctly.
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  #8  
Old February 1st, 2015, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
ECR's site has a write up on their site on switching the relay over with that console installed.
Ash:

I looked all over the ECR website & can't find it. Was it there recently?

Thanks,

Paul.
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Past Land Rovers: '96 Discovery SD, '00 Range Rover HSE, '04 Discovery SE7, '07 Range Rover HSE, '08 LR3 SE7.
Past fleet: '89 Classic Mini, '83 Porsche 911 SC Coupe, '89 911 Carrera targa, '96 911 Carrera 4, '07 Toyota FJ Cruiser, several Minis.
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  #9  
Old February 1st, 2015, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RovingRyan View Post
I would recommend buying the harness adaptors from Rovers North. With those you simply unplug the bullet connector and plug in the new bits. As far as the side repeaters go I would advise against LED. If you do the dash indicator will stop working and that is due to the way it is wired and will require a wiring change and the addition of some diodes to make it work correctly.
Can you explain this a little more. I'm having a bit of a disco light effect happening on my all LED set up right now and no dash indicator lights.

Specifically if I set the stalk for right turn signal I get a half as bright "ghost" indication on the left side and a full right turn signal. the revere is true as well.

I'm just about to snip all the left side and right side wires as they go on about their way and have a common known splice for all the lefts and rights. Then wire in the turn signal stalks to each respective side.

The indicator circuit is a bit confusing to me since it looks like left grounds through right and vice versa. I have no idea why the trailer light would only illuminate once unless there is a little circuit board hidden somewhere.

Thanks
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  #10  
Old February 1st, 2015, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackField View Post
Can you explain this a little more. I'm having a bit of a disco light effect happening on my all LED set up right now and no dash indicator lights. Specifically if I set the stalk for right turn signal I get a half as bright "ghost" indication on the left side and a full right turn signal. the revere is true as well.
Since the defender uses a single dash indicator for left and right the the indicator itself has one wire to the +12v on the left side and one wire to the +12v on the right side. With incandescent bulbs the left side bulbs become the ground path when using the right side turn signal and vice versa. If you switch all to led the indicator on the dash now acts as a path to power the opposite side. A simple short term remedy is to remove the bulb from the socket on the dash and your lights will operate correctly. What I have done to mine is add a dedicated ground wire for the indicator and installed a led bulb and two diodes. Each acts as a gate to prevent power from feeding to the opposite side and I know have a dash indicator again. I can draw a wiring diagram if necessary.
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  #11  
Old February 1st, 2015, 12:32 PM
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Man you made that so much easier. I'd really appreciate a drawing if you don't mind. My electrical common sense is 90 percent ok then 10% completely, electrifyingly, fusible link shorting wrong.
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  #12  
Old February 1st, 2015, 01:55 PM
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Click image for larger version

Name:	image-4112450989.jpg
Views:	239
Size:	404.8 KB
ID:	112532

Center section is what you need to end up with and is how mine is configured. No reason to add all new wires when the original two will do just fine. On mine I have an led for the dash indicator but you could also use the incandescent bulb.
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  #13  
Old February 1st, 2015, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RovingRyan View Post
Attachment 112532

Center section is what you need to end up with and is how mine is configured. No reason to add all new wires when the original two will do just fine. On mine I have an led for the dash indicator but you could also use the incandescent bulb.
What kind of diode? I've never wired one in before.
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  #14  
Old February 1st, 2015, 04:28 PM
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A 1N4001 should do the trick. Radio shack will have it. You can also use a led (light emitting diode) in place of the diode.
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Old February 10th, 2015, 08:32 PM
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I didn't go the diode route but Ryan inspired me to try something else:





I cut out a groove that I had planned on using to clear a rivet but plans changed. I need to fill in that gap now.



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  #16  
Old February 11th, 2015, 11:22 PM
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That looks like a lot of tinkering.....another option would be to switch to a TD5 instrument panel. It uses left and right indicators.
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  #17  
Old February 12th, 2015, 08:18 AM
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Or put incandescent bulbs back in the markers. I did all mine in under an hour and didn't change the relay. Works great. 1987 ROW
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