LED Bulb for 1997 Speedo? - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old January 27th, 2012, 03:32 PM
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Ian Gregory
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ST doesn't have the HRW and RWW switches of course. The interior light set up is different. The high mounted brake light is different and takes 3 bulbs. As the OP found out the speedo on a 97 uses a pair of special low profile bulbs. Not sure what the VDO replacement uses. 97 shifter needs a couple of bulbs that are not needed on earlier trucks. That is about all I can think of at the moment.

The trailer warning lamp is on the dash (97 at least) and lights up for 1 flash when you put the turn signals on as a bulb check and when you have a trailer connected to show the trailer signals are working. Not critical I agree but if there is an option to retain it then I would rather go that way. It uses the 4th (C2) pin on the relay. That pin is not there on the CF13GL-02 unit that Superbirght sells but is on the EP26 one that I listed. This may only apply to the 97 as that uses the LR PRC8876 relay which is a 4 pin. LR has used a number of different flasher relays over the years though and the 94/95 might only be a 3 pin.

Can't speak for others but on mine the polarity on the brake lights was correct out the box. If the wires where switched then one of the lights wouldn't work in the standard config as they share a common ground (3 wire). Move that ground and only 1 circuit has it and the other has 2 live feeds??? That's on a 97 of course. If you have a 4 wire double ground set up then you could have reversed polarity but the 97 is a 3 wire so this can't apply. Its possible he managed to force a single circuit bulb in there of course but it would be difficult to do as the pins on the bulb are keyed at different heights and a standard bulb shouldn't fit. The single contact at the bottom would also not line up with the double in the housing. He can't have plugged it up wrong as the others are 2 wire connectors and not long enough to reach. They also wouldn't light up with the side lights.

Only thing I can think of is that he's blown a fuse or has a short/break in his wiring. Or a pair of bad bulbs is possible of course but unlikely.

Spook, did you resolve this?

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  #22  
Old January 29th, 2012, 03:20 AM
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Rich
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I think my bulbs were not dual bulbs so the were either on or off. I have noticed they sell dual LED like a dual filament bulb and I am sure that was my issue.

Crap that relay is going to be a PITA to get too. Hopefully, I can it.
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  #23  
Old January 29th, 2012, 05:27 AM
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Ian Gregory
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Look at the bottom of the blub. Does it have 2 contacts or 1? Look at the base from the side, is 1 pin higher than the other or are they both at the same height? If you have 2 contacts and the pins are different heights then its a dual circuit bulb and should work. If it only has 1 contact then its a single circuit and won't work. You also shouldn't have been able to fit it into that socket. An 1157 is a dual circuit, 1156 is a single. They look the same from the LED end.
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  #24  
Old January 29th, 2012, 05:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spook View Post
Crap that relay is going to be a PITA to get too. Hopefully, I can it.
i haven't done it yet - but ECR has a great writeup on getting to that relay on a 97:

http://www.eastcoastrover.com/LEDflasher.html
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  #25  
Old January 29th, 2012, 08:14 AM
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Hey Rich - I recently pulled the console in my 97 and it was very easy. Just follow the ECR instructions. Getting it back in was the difficult part. I highly recommend you have someone help you guide it in. You have to angle the front in under the dash, and then allow the rear to settle into place once everything is lined up. The weight is in the rear, and if you slip and drop it before its lined up it can be badly damaged. Should be easier if you dont have the A/C plumbing.

If you think you might want to wire any accessories through the console, run the wire now. When I was in there I ran a few extra lengths of wire through the console - you might want to add another 12V socket or some communications equipment later and this will make it easier. As you will discover, when you pull the "tray" in the console (to access the bolts at the back), there is lots of unused space behind the shifter assembly and a few grommets that allow you to run wire out to the under-seat storage boxes.
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  #26  
Old February 6th, 2012, 02:21 AM
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Rich
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Ian,

Yep my bulbs are just as you described but when I plug them in the light goes out. So maybe polarity? I had to stock up up fuses as when I was messing w/ the breaks I popped my start relay. Took me hours to figure that out.

Brett,
Thanks for the go to on the relay. I'll dig in that this weekend I hope. My front is done need to wrap up the back end of the truck.

Jeff,
I have AC. Hopefully it's not hard....but we'll see.

Any one got a pinout if I have to rewire my brake lights for polarity? No matter which way I put the bulb in...same result.
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  #27  
Old February 6th, 2012, 06:24 AM
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Ian Gregory
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Easy to check your wiring. Take a look at the pic above of the back of my lights. Stop lamp is on the right in the pic. Should be 3 wires going into the plug:

1 Black (Ground) Neg - at all times.
2 Green/Purple (Brake Lamp) Pos + with brakes on.
3 Red/Black (Tail Lamp) Pos + with lights on.

They might go from right to left or left to right depending on which way up your light is fitted. If that all matches then you don't have a miswire (at the light) causing a polarity problem unless you have installed the plug the wrong way onto the light fitting. You shouldn't be able to do that though as it's keyed.

That leaves 3 possibilities I can think of right now.

1 You have a blown fuse on another circuit that is causing some funky shit.
2 You have a pair of bad bulbs.
3 There is a splice or a misconnect somewhere before the light and the wires are crossed up.


Do you have trailer wiring on the truck?


If it helps any I have attached the 2 pages that have the relevent circuit diagrams. If you have a meter or a test probe, its an easy check to make sure you have the right power and polarity at the bulb holder, then you would know if it's the bulb or the wiring. The outer contacts in the holder should be ground and the two contacts at the bottom should be the pos supplies for the 2 circuits.
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File Type: pdf Electrical Circuit Diagram (LRL 0104) 3rd Edition.pdf (111.0 KB, 49 views)
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  #28  
Old February 7th, 2012, 01:04 AM
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Rich
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Ian,

Thanks for the help. I will check when I get back. I am in Yuma till Friday and have to work the weekend...So I hope after work one of those days. I have a meter and should be able to test. I do have a trailer plug...looks none standard round dealio. I will have to check fuses again. Since my last go I blew out the starter circuit sooo hopefully that does not happen again.
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  #29  
Old February 7th, 2012, 03:44 PM
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Ian Gregory
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Rich,

I suggest you start with checking the polarity and what you have coming out at the light with a meter when you get home. If what you have at the light is correct then you know it's the bulbs and can just get on the horn to SuperBright.

If what you have at the light is funky then you will have to start digging. I asked about the trailer harness because it taps into both the circuits those lights use and if somebody has done some crazy Ivan wiring on it then you might want to start your search there. They 'normally' connect in behind the pass side rear speaker housing.

Let me know how you get on?

Yuma eh? Sucks!
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