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  #21  
Old May 24th, 2015, 06:21 PM
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plenty of room for an aftermarket cell i would think... looks lik prolly 200 buck after fittings to go with a generic hot rod/race cell
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  #22  
Old November 22nd, 2015, 07:30 PM
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What's the right way to remove an 85 exMod fuel tank?

Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
Is your plastic tank similar to a Disco or RR classic enough to substitute?
I think it might be, I need to pull it to be sure.

Okay so I'm some kind of idiot or something and I'm frustrated as all hell with this tank. Everytime I go out to try and fix it something slows me down. I'm seriously afraid to break something pulling this out so I'm moving with caution (I really don't want to spend money on parts that I didn't need to).

SO. Today I'm out there, thinking I'm going to full this POS tank off and fix it. I get behind the left rear wheel and start detaching the wires from the sending unit on the left side of the tank (I'm 90% certain that's what it was). Then I get hung up on the fuel line coming out of it. I've been spinning the nuts on the damn thing for 30 minutes with no effect. I pulllllll on the hose to no effect. On top of that, there's not much space in there.

What's the right way to remove the damn thing?


Pictures Related.
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  #23  
Old November 22nd, 2015, 07:41 PM
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mark kellgren
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GRNWOLF View Post
The prices I saw were significantly more expensive, $1000+. I'm still trying to figure out why
I just replaced my steel tank a few months ago with a proline replacement. it was like $200ish. Contact Z. I replaced myself one morning. Regretted taking so long.

When I did get the replacement tank, I acetoned the entire thing, then gave it a complete POR15 coating, and then added bed liner all around the edges where the metal folds are (water collects there and causes rust) and all over the bottom extra heavy where the tank rests on the skid plate.

Make sure to loosen and then tighten that drain bolt. never know when you'll need it someday and you don't want it seized. i put some anti-seize on the drain bolt.

You might want to order some new grommets, and you'll need a new gasket for the return pipe on top, and the sender on the side.

with everything you're going to be under $300. Just do it now. Weather isn't getting better.
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  #24  
Old November 22nd, 2015, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
I just replaced my steel tank a few months ago with a proline replacement.
How did you detach the fuel sending unit?
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  #25  
Old November 22nd, 2015, 07:47 PM
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mark kellgren
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You turn the metal locking ring on the outside. It's like a quarter turn with a flat head screwdriver and hammer and the entire unit will come straight off.

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  #26  
Old November 22nd, 2015, 08:51 PM
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should I remove the sending unit before removing the gas tank? It doesn't seem like there's much room in there.

edit: I HAVE to be missing something obvious. I don't see how it's reasonably feasible the way this was put in here if the sending unit was installed before or after the tank was installed. I'm about to take a grinder to the whole thing.
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  #27  
Old November 22nd, 2015, 09:04 PM
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No. Drop the tank and change all of the bits on the ground.
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  #28  
Old November 23rd, 2015, 01:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
No. Drop the tank and change all of the bits on the ground.
I would love to do that. I'm stuck on how to get it out. On the right side there's the fuel filler input and on the left the little line from the sending unit sticks out, both are preventing me from dropping the tank. There's maybe a half inch of wiggle room from left to right. The fuel filler side is way to big to work with so that leaves the left side where the sending unit pipe sticks out.

At best I can get it to have maybe a half inch of that little pipe hanging onto the frame of the truck.

Did you have to twist/angle the tank any special way?

I'll have to put more pictures up later.
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  #29  
Old November 23rd, 2015, 01:58 PM
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I had to remove my sending unit to drop my tank. The tubes that the fuel lines clamp onto wouldn't drop down past the frame rails. Either aftermarket sender or the crossmember repair widened the frame enough it would clear. It is much easier to remove the rear wheel to give you room to move around under there. Good luck. I had to do it a few times as my sender got bent the first time I tried to drop it and wouldn't seat correctly and spilled gas if I filled over 50%.... Finally realized why.
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  #30  
Old November 23rd, 2015, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toad View Post
I had to remove my sending unit to drop my tank. The tubes that the fuel lines clamp onto wouldn't drop down past the frame rails. Either aftermarket sender or the crossmember repair widened the frame enough it would clear. It is much easier to remove the rear wheel to give you room to move around under there. Good luck. I had to do it a few times as my sender got bent the first time I tried to drop it and wouldn't seat correctly and spilled gas if I filled over 50%.... Finally realized why.
oh dear.... I'm sure I've already bent the tube. Did you have to replace the sending unit or just rebend the tube?
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  #31  
Old November 23rd, 2015, 02:11 PM
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The plate itself that the tubes flow through was bent, I was able to flatten it enough with a vice, and small ball peen /anvil. The tube I believe was slightly bent but wasn't an issue.
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  #32  
Old November 23rd, 2015, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toad View Post
The plate itself that the tubes flow through was bent, I was able to flatten it enough with a vice, and small ball peen /anvil. The tube I believe was slightly bent but wasn't an issue.
Both tubes are pretty maleable.
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  #33  
Old November 23rd, 2015, 02:17 PM
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that's great news to me!

I'm dreading removing the sending unit. The space is tiny. I'll try to get the wheel off. It's up on chocks right now so I'm going to have prop the jack up a little higher. I do have stands for after it's off so that's one problem handled
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  #34  
Old November 23rd, 2015, 02:51 PM
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The sending unit should just have wires connected to it. Disconnect the wires.
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  #35  
Old November 23rd, 2015, 02:54 PM
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Matthew Hedrick
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This place did a great job repairing my plastic tank. Maybe there's a similar operation in your area.

http://www.sappsinc.com/
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  #36  
Old November 23rd, 2015, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RX6RCROL View Post
This place did a great job repairing my plastic tank. Maybe there's a similar operation in your area.

SAPPS
Thank you. Hopefully it won't come to that. From what I can tell it's either a bad seal or bad line on the top of the tank (in the worst spot of course).
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  #37  
Old November 23rd, 2015, 05:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GRNWOLF View Post
Thank you. Hopefully it won't come to that. From what I can tell it's either a bad seal or bad line on the top of the tank (in the worst spot of course).
Mine was leaking in two places. Crack in the top and behind the heat shield. Someone before me had tried to use some kind of epoxy to stop the leaks. Click image for larger version

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  #38  
Old November 26th, 2015, 04:55 PM
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I used a tank out of an early Range Rover it bolted right in. I had to swap a few things around for my diesel. It was a straight forward swap and the cost from the wreckers for the tank was about $75.00. Mine started leaking do to mud between the skid plate and the tank. It's been in the truck over two years with no problems.
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