Leaky Break Reservoir - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old January 23rd, 2016, 11:21 AM
Manimal's Avatar
Manimal
Status: Offline
Carl Jonsson
1995 NAS D90 #219
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 3,236
Leaky Break Reservoir

I'm gearing up to replace my Break Master Cylinder and Reservoir on my 300tdi. I've got a slow leak under the reservoir. In the past 8 years of ownership I've never changed the brake oil so you could say its about time. While I'm in there and the oil is out what other parts should be replaced as part of a regular routine?

I've also got to replace my steering bushings this spring. Is there a kit you can buy or do you buy them individually? Does anyone have a list? OEM or Urethane?
__________________
Land Rovers. A loosely associated collection of parts, generally traveling in the same direction.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old January 23rd, 2016, 12:27 PM
Ignotus
Status: Offline
gene
1960 109, w/200TDI
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: 3rd rock from the Sun
Posts: 401
Carl,

I replaced (n my 109) the Land Rover dual brake plastic res with a Ford Mustang model cast iron one. A Dorman #71248. Not sure about thread compatibility with the Defender brake lines, so you would have to check. It is not just a straight swap you have to make a spacer for the push rod as the Dorman is deeper.

Here's how it's done; Genocache: Land Rover brake master cylinder alternate
__________________
Gene
1960 109
1960 88 Ignotus
Blog;
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old January 23rd, 2016, 01:45 PM
Mybluett's Avatar
Mybluett
Status: Offline
Defenders Northwest
110SW
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Gig Harbor, WA
Posts: 2,016
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
I'm gearing up to replace my Break Master Cylinder and Reservoir on my 300tdi. I've got a slow leak under the reservoir. In the past 8 years of ownership I've never changed the brake oil so you could say its about time. While I'm in there and the oil is out what other parts should be replaced as part of a regular routine?

I've also got to replace my steering bushings this spring. Is there a kit you can buy or do you buy them individually? Does anyone have a list? OEM or Urethane?
Why are you replacing the master?

Likely just the rubber gaskets that have hardened between the reservoir if the plastic is still holding fluid.

Steering bushings? Tie rod ends or radius/trailing arms?
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #4  
Old January 23rd, 2016, 01:50 PM
Manimal's Avatar
Manimal
Status: Offline
Carl Jonsson
1995 NAS D90 #219
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 3,236
I figured while I'm at it. Unknown age and condition. When in doubt I replace it.

I don't see any gasket in the parts manual.

Yep, I haven't located the infamous clunk culprit so I figured I'd replace all steering bushings. Is there a kit? Would you go stock or polyurethane?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mybluett View Post
Why are you replacing the master?

Likely just the rubber gaskets that have hardened between the reservoir if the plastic is still holding fluid.

Steering bushings? Tie rod ends or radius/trailing arms?
__________________
Land Rovers. A loosely associated collection of parts, generally traveling in the same direction.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old January 23rd, 2016, 02:07 PM
Mybluett's Avatar
Mybluett
Status: Offline
Defenders Northwest
110SW
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Gig Harbor, WA
Posts: 2,016
Registry
Rubber seals are part of the reservoir kit (no separate part number) - they get hard, crack, and leak...



No bushings in the steering system (except the ones for mounting the stabilizer)

TRE's - may be worn out and need replaced


The radius/trailing arm bushing sets have benefits to both solutions.

Poly
PRO - easily replaced in the field without any special tools - there are a variety of firmness options, and you can mix and match as needed. Run really well right up to failure point.
CON - bushing failure is usually catastrophic, life span is shorter


Rubber
PRO - longer life, sturdy integrated layers of steel and rubber
CON - PITA to replace compared to POLY, oils weaken the rubber over time (swelling and softening) one hardness option
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old January 23rd, 2016, 02:09 PM
Manimal's Avatar
Manimal
Status: Offline
Carl Jonsson
1995 NAS D90 #219
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 3,236
Thanks buddy.

What do you have on your 110?
__________________
Land Rovers. A loosely associated collection of parts, generally traveling in the same direction.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old January 23rd, 2016, 02:28 PM
Mybluett's Avatar
Mybluett
Status: Offline
Defenders Northwest
110SW
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Gig Harbor, WA
Posts: 2,016
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
Thanks buddy.

What do you have on your 110?
My 110 has Poly
My 130 has Rubber
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old January 23rd, 2016, 02:48 PM
Red90's Avatar
Red90
Status: Offline
John B.
1991 Defender 90, 200TDI
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary
Posts: 9,250
Registry
The problem with this discussion is all brands of poly are completely different. Some are crap and some are better than genuine.
__________________
Pissing people off on the "net" since 1983.

Land Rover. Turning owners into mechanics since 1948.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old January 23rd, 2016, 03:12 PM
Jymmiejamz's Avatar
Jymmiejamz
Status: Offline
Jimmy
1995 D90 SW #365
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 3,468
Registry
I don't have much experience with poly bushings, but original ones seem to last a long time. For me, I would just go with Genuine replacements and hope they are good quality like the originals.

You may have to buy a master cylinder rebuild kit to get the seals you need.
__________________
Car Camping Collective founding member and Treasurer
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old January 23rd, 2016, 03:20 PM
Red90's Avatar
Red90
Status: Offline
John B.
1991 Defender 90, 200TDI
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary
Posts: 9,250
Registry
Unfortunately new genuine bushings don't last nearly as long as the originals.
__________________
Pissing people off on the "net" since 1983.

Land Rover. Turning owners into mechanics since 1948.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old January 23rd, 2016, 03:22 PM
Roadsiderob's Avatar
Roadsiderob
Status: Offline
Robert Dassler
1994 D90
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Albuquerque, NM, USA
Posts: 994
If your master cylinder in your 300tdi is the same as the NAS trucks and your reservoir is good, you can replace just the rubber grommets with part numbers 4A0-611-817A and 893-611-817B. They are Audi/VW part numbers. I get them from WorldPac, although you could probably get them from an Audi/VW parts supplier.
__________________
Rob Dassler
SWR Automotive
505-872-7818 (shop)
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old January 23rd, 2016, 03:31 PM
Wilboro's Avatar
Wilboro
Status: Offline
William Ficner
1997 110 csw
Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 688
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadsiderob View Post
If your master cylinder in your 300tdi is the same as the NAS trucks and your reservoir is good, you can replace just the rubber grommets with part numbers 4A0-611-817A and 893-611-817B. They are Audi/VW part numbers. I get them from WorldPac, although you could probably get them from an Audi/VW parts supplier.

This is very timely as while replacing my servo today I've noticed these reservoir rubber seal are on their last legs.

I've attached a pic of the 300tdi master does it look the same as the NAS one?

Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByTapatalk1453581074.675314.jpg
Views:	84
Size:	259.0 KB
ID:	140154
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old January 23rd, 2016, 04:40 PM
Jymmiejamz's Avatar
Jymmiejamz
Status: Offline
Jimmy
1995 D90 SW #365
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 3,468
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Unfortunately new genuine bushings don't last nearly as long as the originals.
I'm not surprised. Its a shame that new replacement parts can be such junk. I would trust a used alternator over a new one.
__________________
Car Camping Collective founding member and Treasurer
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old January 23rd, 2016, 05:40 PM
Roadsiderob's Avatar
Roadsiderob
Status: Offline
Robert Dassler
1994 D90
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Albuquerque, NM, USA
Posts: 994
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilboro View Post
This is very timely as while replacing my servo today I've noticed these reservoir rubber seal are on their last legs.

I've attached a pic of the 300tdi master does it look the same as the NAS one?

Attachment 140154
Yes, it looks the same to me.
__________________
Rob Dassler
SWR Automotive
505-872-7818 (shop)
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old January 23rd, 2016, 06:52 PM
Viton's Avatar
Viton
Status: Offline
Deaf Ember
Smart 4x4
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: La
Posts: 1,231
The parts 893-611-817B and 4A0-611-817A , are readily available on eBay too.

RovahFarm sells the rebuild kit with all the parts for about $27 STC491
or the whole MC w/ reservoir & cap for $119 STC441
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old January 23rd, 2016, 07:09 PM
Red90's Avatar
Red90
Status: Offline
John B.
1991 Defender 90, 200TDI
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary
Posts: 9,250
Registry
Just make sure any brake parts are branded OEM. Aftermarket is really bad for these parts.
__________________
Pissing people off on the "net" since 1983.

Land Rover. Turning owners into mechanics since 1948.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old January 23rd, 2016, 08:47 PM
Manimal's Avatar
Manimal
Status: Offline
Carl Jonsson
1995 NAS D90 #219
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 3,236
OEM is ok, but Genuine, not necessary, right John?

Does the master break cylinder ever need replacing? Is it unnecessary for me to replace it? I had to replace the master and slave clutch cylinders a few years ago so I figured the break one would need replacing at some point as well.
__________________
Land Rovers. A loosely associated collection of parts, generally traveling in the same direction.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old January 23rd, 2016, 09:32 PM
Viton's Avatar
Viton
Status: Offline
Deaf Ember
Smart 4x4
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: La
Posts: 1,231
Two things I've seen in the master cyl, cause failure. The piston seals go bad because of rust formation in the housing causing the pistons to wear which causes low or no braking. Your mention of 8 years and no fluid change concerns me.

It's best to change out the fluid when it goes from clear to the color of light tea, if it's the color of Coke, you are extremely overdue and could possible have rust formation in the brake calipers & other places in the system.

Water gets in the system from the atmosphere. Every time you press the brakes, air comes into the reservoir to take the place of brake fluid you press into the system. In more humid climates, this brings in more moist air than in a desert environment. Most mfg's recommend changing the fluid every 2 years.

The best way I've found to do the job is with a Miti-Vac tool and suck the fluid out the brake bleeders at each wheel until new clear fluid is present. Suck all the old fluid from the reservoir 1st & fill it with clean fresh fluid. You'll need a quart to do it this way. No air gets in the system this way as long as you keep the reservoir full while doing this procedure. Only one person required for the job. Keep vacuum on the bleeder and close with vacuum in place.
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old January 23rd, 2016, 11:10 PM
Red90's Avatar
Red90
Status: Offline
John B.
1991 Defender 90, 200TDI
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary
Posts: 9,250
Registry
Normally I would not change it unless it failed as it is an easy job. Can't hurt though. Eight years with the same fluid is not a good thing. Hopefully all the bleed nipples will open.

I always use a Motive power bleeder. Simple and pain free fluid flushing.
__________________
Pissing people off on the "net" since 1983.

Land Rover. Turning owners into mechanics since 1948.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old January 23rd, 2016, 11:15 PM
Red90's Avatar
Red90
Status: Offline
John B.
1991 Defender 90, 200TDI
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary
Posts: 9,250
Registry
OEM should be good.
__________________
Pissing people off on the "net" since 1983.

Land Rover. Turning owners into mechanics since 1948.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Leaky Steering Box RyanS Defender Technical Discussions 19 April 11th, 2009 10:48 PM
Temp fix for leaky swivel ball seal? solihul Defender Technical Discussions 5 July 2nd, 2005 05:47 PM
Leaky Fuel Tank cbass Defender Technical Discussions 12 June 2nd, 2005 04:50 PM
leaky/bad '97 D90 Radiator kiphartzell Wanted 8 April 11th, 2005 03:42 PM
Leaky windows - 97 D-90SW BarryO Defender Technical Discussions 6 April 2nd, 2004 07:39 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:22 AM.


Copyright