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  #21  
Old January 24th, 2016, 04:06 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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I think I'll go OEM Rubber. So to narrow down the elusive front end clunk culprit.

It could be:

Track Rod Ends (3)
Front Radius Arm Bushings (3 on each side)
Panhard Rod Bushing? (1) There's also one in there right?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mybluett View Post
Rubber seals are part of the reservoir kit (no separate part number) - they get hard, crack, and leak...

No bushings in the steering system (except the ones for mounting the stabilizer)

TRE's - may be worn out and need replaced

The radius/trailing arm bushing sets have benefits to both solutions.

Poly
PRO - easily replaced in the field without any special tools - there are a variety of firmness options, and you can mix and match as needed. Run really well right up to failure point.
CON - bushing failure is usually catastrophic, life span is shorter

Rubber
PRO - longer life, sturdy integrated layers of steel and rubber
CON - PITA to replace compared to POLY, oils weaken the rubber over time (swelling and softening) one hardness option
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  #22  
Old January 24th, 2016, 04:09 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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Thanks for the tips, everyone. I'm planning on replacing the whole master cylinder. I can always get the rebuild kit for the old one and use it as a trail spare.

The Power Steering fluid is also in the same condition. I've never touched it. I assume it would be prudent to change this as well?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Viton View Post
Two things I've seen in the master cyl, cause failure. The piston seals go bad because of rust formation in the housing causing the pistons to wear which causes low or no braking. Your mention of 8 years and no fluid change concerns me.

It's best to change out the fluid when it goes from clear to the color of light tea, if it's the color of Coke, you are extremely overdue and could possible have rust formation in the brake calipers & other places in the system.

Water gets in the system from the atmosphere. Every time you press the brakes, air comes into the reservoir to take the place of brake fluid you press into the system. In more humid climates, this brings in more moist air than in a desert environment. Most mfg's recommend changing the fluid every 2 years.

The best way I've found to do the job is with a Miti-Vac tool and suck the fluid out the brake bleeders at each wheel until new clear fluid is present. Suck all the old fluid from the reservoir 1st & fill it with clean fresh fluid. You'll need a quart to do it this way. No air gets in the system this way as long as you keep the reservoir full while doing this procedure. Only one person required for the job. Keep vacuum on the bleeder and close with vacuum in place.
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  #23  
Old January 24th, 2016, 05:39 PM
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Power steering fluid does not go bad so it is not a big deal. Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air and leads to corrosion. It is supposed to be replaced every two year on all vehicles.
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  #24  
Old April 17th, 2016, 12:54 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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Brake Fluid Brand

Which brand makes the highest quality break fluid out there?

Is there one break fluid that absorbs moisture less than others?

The leak stopped for a couple of months but I suspect it might come back as the weather gets warmer so I thought I'd replace the fluid in the next couple of weekends.
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  #25  
Old April 17th, 2016, 12:55 PM
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Interesting read: Brake Fluid Grades
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  #26  
Old April 17th, 2016, 01:11 PM
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Need to cut into your thread, I have an issue with my new to me V8 powered Rover, seems the PO filled the brake and ctutch systems with Dot 5.

Not sure to the extent of the fill if a full flush was done, but I belive not as I found a weeping hardpipe. So now I have to rebuild all masters and slaves, brake and clutch.

Why the PO did this? There are writings on this subject. Dot 5 has its place, but not here.
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  #27  
Old April 17th, 2016, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
Which brand makes the highest quality break fluid out there?

Is there one break fluid that absorbs moisture less than others?

The leak stopped for a couple of months but I suspect it might come back as the weather gets warmer so I thought I'd replace the fluid in the next couple of weekends.
Land Rover Genuine brake fluid is cheap and available at every dealer. It is a low viscosity DOT 4. Another alternative is Pentosin DOT4LV, but I think it is somewhat expensive. Despite what their website says, Pentosin DOT4 does not meet Land Rover's spec which calls for a low viscosity brake fluid.

If you have any local Land Rover dealer techs that are you friend, ask them for some, most techs have plenty of extra fluid laying around their work area.
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  #28  
Old May 5th, 2016, 03:14 PM
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On Brian's recommendation I ended up ordering some high grade German stuff: Pentosin Super Dot 4 brake fluid. I'm hoping to dig into this project over the weekend but I have a question for you.

If I am planning to replace the entire master brake cylinder and reservoir, how much do you need to drain the system? Do you drain the system entirely or just enough to empty the reservoir and then bleed it with the new master cylinder in place? The workshop manual doesn't mention any of this. What's the best approach that delivers the least amount of corrosive mess?
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  #29  
Old May 5th, 2016, 03:25 PM
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1 quart. A pint won't be enough.
I use a Miti-Vac to suck the fluid to each wheel cylinder. Be suer to keep fill the reservoir before each wheel.
Do the rears 1st then the fronts.
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  #30  
Old May 5th, 2016, 03:48 PM
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Suck out the reservoir and pressure bleed through to each wheel is what I do. Super easy and nicer than other method, IME. A quart is usually enough, I think.
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  #31  
Old May 5th, 2016, 06:05 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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What do I use for the sucking part? Just suck out enough to empty the reservoir, then remove the master cylinder, then install the new one, then bleed the system?
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  #32  
Old May 5th, 2016, 06:24 PM
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I have a generic vacuum extractor. Useful for lots of things. You could just use a hose and your mouth though. Just don't get it in your mouth.
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  #33  
Old May 5th, 2016, 09:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
On Brian's recommendation I ended up ordering some high grade German stuff: Pentosin Super Dot 4 brake fluid. I'm hoping to dig into this project over the weekend but I have a question for you.

If I am planning to replace the entire master brake cylinder and reservoir, how much do you need to drain the system? Do you drain the system entirely or just enough to empty the reservoir and then bleed it with the new master cylinder in place? The workshop manual doesn't mention any of this. What's the best approach that delivers the least amount of corrosive mess?
That is an ISO class 4 break fluid, not class 6, so technically it isn't the correct fluid. Genuine brake fluid would be cheaper and would be the correct fluid. I'm sure any fluid would work, but if you are going to overpay, at least get the right fluid!



As for doing brake repairs, I use a suction device to remove all of the fluid from the reservoir. If you wanted to go crazy you could also open all of the bleeders, but I wouldn't bother.
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  #34  
Old May 6th, 2016, 08:36 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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Point taken, Jimmy.
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  #35  
Old June 12th, 2016, 03:23 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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Finally getting to this. I replaced the brake master cylinder, refilled it and am using a power bleeder to bleed. The front passenger side went fine. The front driver side appears to be clogged. The bleed nipple is wide open but nothing comes out. What do I do?
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  #36  
Old June 12th, 2016, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
Finally getting to this. I replaced the brake master cylinder, refilled it and am using a power bleeder to bleed. The front passenger side went fine. The front driver side appears to be clogged. The bleed nipple is wide open but nothing comes out. What do I do?
Have used pedal pressure to force it free?
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  #37  
Old June 12th, 2016, 04:06 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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I haven't tried that yet. I'm using the power bleeder, set at 15 PSI. I should take the pressure off the power bleeder first, if I do that, right?

It's not the nipples. I swapped the front nipples and still nothing so I must have clogged calipers. Same in the rear. Rear driver bled fine. Rear passenger nothing.
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  #38  
Old June 12th, 2016, 04:09 PM
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Just leave the pressure bleeder on and pump the pedal. You get a a couple thousand psi from the pedal instead of the 15.
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  #39  
Old June 12th, 2016, 04:10 PM
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Ok. My reservoir looks inflated. It won't pop, will it?
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  #40  
Old June 12th, 2016, 04:12 PM
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The pressure is from the bleeder. The pedal does not add pressure to the reservoir.
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