Looks like i'm on the last few items to sort out before the truck is ready. Over the past week or so I've attempted to find the correct part numbers needed. I have found some of the numbers but want to make sure they are correct before shelling out $$. Others I have been unable to find a correct number. Hope someone here can help.
The Engine is the Defender 200TDi if for some reason the needed parts are different from a Disco 200TDi.
Intercooler/Radiator frame bushings. These are the small bushings that attach to the small nubs on the top & bottom of Rad/IC. I believe 8 are required. I found 572312 but this seems to point towards a 300TDi.
Both oil cooler lines.
Heater matrix coolant hoses. I believe I need BTR445 & BTR447 for the matrix that has the 90 degree downward bends. Truck is RHD.
Ill probably have a few more items once I get the rest of the truck together later today. Thanks in advance on the help.
Looks like I need to track down some new oil cooler lines. Any differences between Disco/Defender 200TDi engines? Anyone know the part numbers by chance?
I got mine from Trevor at Rovahfarm. I just ordered the ones he has listed there for the 300tdi and they work just fine. They are in the "heating and cooling" section for some reason. They're $25 each.
Oil cooler lines were changed at some point from using a flare seal to an o-ring seal. So make sure you have the same sealing method at both the radiator and the oil filter adapter.
Quick update:
Few tasks on hold till some larger wrenches arrive.
I have hit a questionable area with the spill rail line. Seems like the hose was cut and never properly reattached to the injector pump. On closer inspection I found something unexpected. There was a small rubber cap covering the port on the pump and what looks like a plug?. Any thoughts as to what it is?
I'm certainly no 200tdi expert, but the spill rail hose attaches to the banjo fitting on the back of the IP. The banjo fitting has two ports; a small nipple for the injector spill hose, and a large (8mm or 5/16) barb for push-on nylon or rubber return to tank. If your picture is what I think it is, it would seem that someone installed a compression fitting on the return barb. Not necessarily a bad thing as you are able to attach a variety of hose connections to that. You just need to pick your poison and go with that.
The rubber cover is correct, that is, it is supposed to be there and look like that.
Thanks for the quick reply. I think I now know what the problem is...i assumed. For some reason I had it in my mind there were 3 banjo connections on the back of the IP. Vac/Boost, Injector Spill return, and To tank return. Looks like the spill & return to tank are the same banjo.
Where are you in Boston, BostonAndy?
I used to live right off Mass Ave in the South End.
I even had a parking space where I could work on my Isuzu Trooper.
Finally located a 26mm wrench to remove the oil cooler lines. Attached are photos of the ends and the radiator adapters. I've not had much luck searching for differences on the radiator adapter thus unsure what one I have. I'm assuming I'll need ESR1912 and ESR1913?
On another subject, any advice on wiring the B+ terminals up to the starter? This Alternator has 2x B+ blade terminals. Any reason not to connected both terminals to the starter?
Thanks in advance!
@Nomar - I just moved out of Brighton and am out in Waltham.
On the alternator, the normal stock wiring has two wires that run to the starter, I think both 12 gauge. You can certainly run one heavier single wire. I use 4 gauge myself.
You have early cooler pipes and late radiator fittings. ESR 1912 and 1913 are the numbers for the late cooler pipes. Those will work fine with your new radiator but won't work with the oil filter adapter at the other end.
You have two choices:
1) Buy late oil filter adapter and ESR 1912 and ESR 1913 cooler pipes
OR
2) Use adapters from an early radiator that fit the early type cooler pipes
If you choose the second approach be careful removing the existing adapters from the plastic radiator tank. You'll see that there is cement/sealant on the threads. You will have to gently apply heat from a propane torch to get them to release. Too much heat and you'll melt the tank.
Brit Car had the best price on the late oil filter adapter when I needed one. It was about 60 quid plus shipping.
Removing the adapters from the radiator is actually pretty easy and takes only about 10 minutes for both of them. But if you gotta replace that kinked pipe anyway, might as well upgrade to the new O-ring pipes.
If you're putting a 200tdi in a 110, use the 200tdi Defender pipes. The 300tdi pipes aren't going to work right in your application, they'll be too short.
Wicked. Thanks again for sorting out this last issue of mine. If you ever make it up to Boston, a free Beer awaits.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Defender Source Forum
1M posts
24K members
Since 2003
A forum community dedicated to Land Rover Defender owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, overland, classifieds, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!