Last Few Bolts Before Pulling the Engine - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old December 13th, 2015, 04:00 AM
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Last Few Bolts Before Pulling the Engine

Okay, only few more bolts to go. Want to confirm my internet searches and the manual information as it relates to the top two bell housing bolts.

I need to:
1. Undo the bolts on the bottom (#?) that hold the flywheel cover to the bell housing
2. Attach engine hoist and take-up any slack -- slight upward tension on the engine.
3. Remove engine frame/mount bolts and engine mount bolts (engine weight is being born by hoist at this point).
4. Drop engine a few inches, which will create a small gap between cab body and bell housing.
5. Use a lot of extensions (about 3 ft. worth) to reach the last two bolts from under the vehicle, but over the bell housing.
6. Ensure you use a hex socket to prevent stripping bolts, which I hear are very tight.

Two Questions:
1. Do I have this about right? Will the transmission tilt slightly forward on the mounts (acting as a fulcrum) without damaging anything? The Chilton's manual states to support the transmission, but I don't know why -- as the they don't say to remove the tranny mounts.

2. Do I need to remove the radiator? Concerned I might not get the engine high enough to clear. The shop I am using has a forklift. Should I use that instead?
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  #2  
Old December 13th, 2015, 08:06 AM
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What kind of motor do you? Never pulled a motor without pulling the radiator first.. so much easier. Even easier if you pull the grill also but not necessary.
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  #3  
Old December 13th, 2015, 08:49 AM
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You should loosen the nuts on the transmission mounts to not over stress them. Just drop the engine right down after the mounts are out.

If it is a 2.5NA, 2.5TD or 200TDI (short bellhousing), you don't need to remove the rad. There is enough space. That said, it is easier to do with the rad out of the way as you don't need to lift as high.
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  #4  
Old December 13th, 2015, 09:57 AM
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We pull the trans tunnel, takes a few mins and gives unfettered access to all bell housing bolts. Except on v8 disco', I have never had to remove the mounts and dropped the engine for access. You can pull the engine without removing the rad etc but its a whole lot easier to remove the radiator and grill support.
These trucks are designed with easily removed floors and trans tunnel for a reason and major drive train surgery is that reason. I like to use vaseline on the floor plate screws so they all come out in a matter of 5 mins with a screw gun.
If they haven't been out in 20years and have started to rust the screws are usually bonded to the plastic with corrosion.
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Old December 13th, 2015, 10:53 AM
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That sounds right for a 2.5 4 cylinder.
If you are up on a lift, using the extensions with the engine dropped lower is easy, but from underneath when not raised, the Uncle Douglas approach of removing the tunnel is best.
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Old December 13th, 2015, 11:24 AM
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Tunnel is nice to have off. But....if it has never been off and there is sound deadening and carpet and and... it can be a lot of work to get off.

With the engine mounts removed (they have to come off anyways) and the engine dropped down, you can get the top bolts with a wrench and it only takes a couple of minutes to get them off.
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  #7  
Old December 13th, 2015, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phoenix37 View Post
What kind of motor do you? Never pulled a motor without pulling the radiator first.. so much easier. Even easier if you pull the grill also but not necessary.


It's a 300 TDI. Going back to the original 2.5 NA for import reasons. Got all but one bolt out. It's the very top, middle. Not sure how I am going to get that from underneath. Re-attacking in a few days.

------ Follow up post added December 13th, 2015 08:12 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Tunnel is nice to have off. But....if it has never been off and there is sound deadening and carpet and and... it can be a lot of work to get off.

With the engine mounts removed (they have to come off anyways) and the engine dropped down, you can get the top bolts with a wrench and it only takes a couple of minutes to get them off.


Thanks. Down to one bolt on the very top. Got the two other top ones from underneath, but I don't see how I am going to get this top one like that. Are you saying that I should be able to get a wrench in from the top if I drop the engine far enough? How far can I actually take it?

------ Follow up post added December 13th, 2015 08:18 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
That sounds right for a 2.5 4 cylinder.
If you are up on a lift, using the extensions with the engine dropped lower is easy, but from underneath when not raised, the Uncle Douglas approach of removing the tunnel is best.

Now that I have the mounts unbolted, the engine is on a hoist, I can't put the truck back on the lift. I'm also supporting the gear box with a hydraulic floor jack. The only bolt that is left is the very top. Concerned about how much tension is on that thing when I tip the engine forward to clear the tunnel...
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Old December 13th, 2015, 02:20 PM
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Is the a short bellhousing gearbox? If so, yes. Remove the engine mounts and drop the engine right down. The top three bolts are easy to get from the top with a wrench.

Of course if you have a 300tdo with a short bellhousing then it is all custom and who knows what is possible.

Like Doug says. If you remove the hear lever cover, everything is exposed.
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  #9  
Old December 13th, 2015, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
We pull the trans tunnel, takes a few mins and gives unfettered access to all bell housing bolts. Except on v8 disco', I have never had to remove the mounts and dropped the engine for access. You can pull the engine without removing the rad etc but its a whole lot easier to remove the radiator and grill support.
These trucks are designed with easily removed floors and trans tunnel for a reason and major drive train surgery is that reason. I like to use vaseline on the floor plate screws so they all come out in a matter of 5 mins with a screw gun.
If they haven't been out in 20years and have started to rust the screws are usually bonded to the plastic with corrosion.
Thank you. Unfortunately, I started into the project before reading your post. Will definitely look into this next time. Though the manual says to tilt engine forward, it sure make a lot more sense doing it your way...


Took the rad out. Glad I did. Much easier too get at just about everything.

------ Follow up post added December 13th, 2015 08:33 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Is the a short bellhousing gearbox? If so, yes. Remove the engine mounts and drop the engine right down. The top three bolts are easy to get from the top with a wrench.

Of course if you have a 300tdo with a short bellhousing then it is all custom and who knows what is possible.

Like Doug says. If you remove the hear lever cover, everything is exposed.




You got it. 300 TDI with short bellhousing. It may be painful now, but a short bellhousing is good if replacing the 300 TDI for a 2.5 NA, right? Should bolt right back together. Just have to figure-out how I am going to fab-up the frame mounts.
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  #10  
Old December 13th, 2015, 03:50 PM
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There is no right or wrong way to do it. Do whatever makes it easiest for you. I've never pulled a tunnel, radiator or motor mounts for better access when removing a Defender motor. Once you start actually pulling the motor just move it up a few inches and check for any wires or hoses you may have forgotten. It sucks ripping pins out of connectors when you can't feel the hoist pulling the wires.
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