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  #1  
Old November 5th, 2012, 12:16 AM
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Sam Odio
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Lamp screws

The lamps on my defender are in pretty bad shape. Specifically: the screws. Most are rusted and different sizes / styles. Also, the holes (in the aluminium body) are sized differently as well.

I'd like to re-do all this right. Possibly with some aluminum rivet nuts and galvanized screws. Has anyone done this before? I'd like to know if there's an easier way before embarking down this path... I don't own a rivet gun.
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  #2  
Old November 5th, 2012, 06:54 AM
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I replaced all of mine with SS, I think they were #6 or something. I couldn't find any metric sizes local. You may have to put in a metal plate, like in speakers, if the holes are too large. That is assuming you have the old style lights. If you have the newer lights with the plinths then you could just bolt the plinths in and use the ss for the screws for the lens.
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Old November 5th, 2012, 09:42 AM
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Sam Odio
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I bought some stainless steel screws but haven't used them. I'm a bit worried that they'll cause corrosion of the aluminum body.
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Old November 5th, 2012, 11:08 AM
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Read this. It will help.

http://www.engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm
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Old November 5th, 2012, 12:13 PM
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Mark Bichin
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If I'm reading that table correctly, there shouldn't be any galvanic corrosion between regular steel and aluminum but there will be with stainless?? That means all those stainless kits out there are causing more damage?
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Old November 5th, 2012, 01:48 PM
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Marc-Andre Leger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arcadeus View Post
those stainless kits out there are causing more damage?
From what I understood, between alu and stainless, the stainless will win and it<s the alu that is going to oxydize. I choose to stay with steel screws and replace them when needed rather that dammage the aluminium.
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Old November 5th, 2012, 02:15 PM
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Sam Odio
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I think the kits are fine since they're bolts that attach to the steel hinges (not the aluminum body).

I don't think it's a good idea to use stainless for the lamp screws.
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Old November 5th, 2012, 03:46 PM
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Can someone please explain that chart?

1) Is it listing 2 dissimilar metals and its Anodic index? I cannot find where it compares aluminum to SS.

2) Is it saying the Anodic index of hot-dip-zinc-plate vs galvanized steel is 1.20?

I am sure I am misreading this, otherwise why would anyone use galvanized steel?
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  #9  
Old November 5th, 2012, 04:22 PM
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Here is a better chart.


http://www.marfas.com/corrosion.shtml

------ Follow up post added November 5th, 2012 05:26 PM ------

The previous chart gives the index. Take the two numbers and subtract the difference. If the number is equal to or less than the environment listed you should be ok. Zinc dip and galv are on the same line. Their index is 1.20.
I hope this helps.

The latter of the two links is better.
Cheers
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Old November 5th, 2012, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSB View Post
Here is a better chart.


http://www.marfas.com/corrosion.shtml

------ Follow up post added November 5th, 2012 05:26 PM ------

The previous chart gives the index. Take the two numbers and subtract the difference. If the number is equal to or less than the environment listed you should be ok. Zinc dip and galv are on the same line. Their index is 1.20.
I hope this helps.

The latter of the two links is better.
Cheers
Thanks for that. So take the two numbers and subtract the difference; but there are 3 numbers listed for aluminum. Sorry I am just very confused with that chart. It's like a chemist trying to explain something to a highschool dropout Can you help me with this?

What is the index for using SS bolts on galvanized steel?
What is the index for using SS bolts on aluminum?


Anyway, I wonder why there is such a push in the Land Rover community to go stainless?
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