Keying Locks the Same as 2007 doors - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old May 14th, 2009, 08:35 PM
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Keying Locks the Same as 2007 doors

I supply the Pics, JimC will hopefully supply the knowledge.
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  #2  
Old May 14th, 2009, 09:07 PM
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Ok, pop the "c" clip retaining the cylinder as seen in pic 1 and the cylinder will slide right out as seen in pic 2.

Insert your key and notice how some wafers stick up and some don't. The goal is to get all wafers to be in a "retracted" position when the key is in the cylinder - allowing the cylinder to turn within the barrel and permitting actuation of the lock mechanism. Protruding wafers are what prevents the cylinder from turning.

Anyway, you can get the wafers out by pushing them out from the bottom, new locks seem to retain their wafers better than old ones. Be careful, because each wafer has a tiny little spring next to it - it usually stays in place because of the grease, but don't lose it.

Basically you want to play around and mix and match wafers until you get as many as possible to be in the retracted position with the key in. You actually don't have to use all the wafers, if one or two are missing, then it will be OK. Also, aim to get the best fit along the top, because you can always take a dremel tool or grinder and shave off protrusions along the bottom to get everything just right.

Keep trying the cylinder (with key) in the lock housing as you work to ensure it turns. If you keep notes when you do the first cylinder (the wafers have numbers) then you'll be able to do the second lock a bit faster.

The ignition key will actually fit a soft top lock cylinder even though its shorter (part of the key sticks out). I figured I'd try to make them work together at some time, but I haven't gotten to it yet.
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  #3  
Old May 14th, 2009, 10:35 PM
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I popped out 4 on each side and it seems to work, can I just leave them out?
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Old May 14th, 2009, 10:38 PM
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I dont get how they pop out..
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Old May 14th, 2009, 10:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomaco1
I popped out 4 on each side and it seems to work, can I just leave them out?
Sure, the only difference is that the lock is easier to pick the fewer cylinders it has. Your call on risk.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TDI Guy
I dont get how they pop out..
You have to force them a little bit to pop. You can also slide them up and grasp the top of the wafer with needle nose pliers and pull.
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Old May 14th, 2009, 10:57 PM
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What the altenative to popping them out?
Grinding them down and then putting them back in.
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Old May 14th, 2009, 11:05 PM
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How do you put them back in without first popping them out?
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  #8  
Old May 15th, 2009, 04:43 AM
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Sorry, I meant, whats the alternative to leaving them out.
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Old May 15th, 2009, 06:03 AM
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Getting new wafers that actually fit, or grinding them down. In an ideal world, you'd have an excess of wafers to select from. The other alternative is ordering new locks and keys, but that kinda costs money.
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  #10  
Old May 15th, 2009, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC
The ignition key will actually fit a soft top lock cylinder even though its shorter (part of the key sticks out). I figured I'd try to make them work together at some time, but I haven't gotten to it yet.
so for the soft top locks we use the same shorter tumbler and just do the same method I assume?
soft top tumblers are shorter = less time to do!?
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  #11  
Old May 15th, 2009, 01:52 PM
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That's my theory, I'll try it out this summer.
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  #12  
Old May 15th, 2009, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC
That's my theory, I'll try it out this summer.
will try it out this weekend! seems possible.
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  #13  
Old May 16th, 2009, 03:07 PM
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Tom,

Can you please keep track of what you need to modify and change when installing the new style doors on your 90?

I have a set of the new doors for my 1984 and would like to get an idea of what needs to be done when you install yours.
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Old May 16th, 2009, 06:12 PM
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No problem, They are still apart and I'll take some pics. I'm putting the handles back on tonight. Give me a call if you want all the sorted details.
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Old May 18th, 2009, 10:15 PM
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more pics

Here you go Dave, New Strikers, Hardware, etc
The fixing the barrels to match the ignition was pretty easy.
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  #16  
Old May 19th, 2009, 12:31 AM
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Nice.

When are you installing the doors? Do you need to drill new holes to relocate the strikers
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  #17  
Old May 19th, 2009, 04:33 AM
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You can buy the complete kits from LR, with the whole ignition switch/barrel/large cast aluminium lump that bolts over the steering column, plus 2,3 or 4 barrels.

I bought the "3 barrel & ignition" for my 110 SW, and the whole lot was under 55 UKP from a LR main dealer (i'll dig the part # out when i get home if anyone is interested), but at least it gives you the locks at their "full strength" without any pins missing.....



..... it's just the large gaps in the body panels, and the rear windows that can be pushed out that we need to address now
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Old May 19th, 2009, 07:05 AM
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wouldn't the pins you remove be worthless anyway? The wouldn't stick out of the barrel even when the key was removed
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Old May 19th, 2009, 09:10 AM
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But they do stick up when the wrong key is inserted.

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by dave_lucas
Nice.

When are you installing the doors? Do you need to drill new holes to relocate the strikers
On my 95 NAS, the holes were already there. On your old truck, I'm guessing you'll have to make holes.
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  #20  
Old May 19th, 2009, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC
On my 95 NAS, the holes were already there. On your old truck, I'm guessing you'll have to make holes.
that is why I am waiting to hear what Tom has to do since he has the same setup
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