JATE recovery rings - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old November 21st, 2015, 11:20 PM
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JATE recovery rings

I'm looking to better outfit my truck for this years Wintergreen Event (and others) and would like to get 1 or 2 of the JATE rings for front recovery points.
Looking for thoughts on whether getting the Genuine LR part at the significantly added cost is worth it over the aftermarket ones? $129 vs $39.

Also, is 1 enough or should I get 2?
Thanks
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  #2  
Old November 21st, 2015, 11:23 PM
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You want two. They need to be bridled as they are not very strong.
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Old November 21st, 2015, 11:28 PM
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Is there any difference between a Genuine one and an aftermarket one? I'm sure the aftermarket ones have accurate load ratings. You can never have too many recovery points, but one would probably be fine. I don't think any recoveries were even needed in the last two years at Wintergreen in the intermediate group.

------ Follow up post added November 21st, 2015 11:30 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
You want two. They need to be bridled as they are not very strong.
I would think the Jate ring is stronger than the frame it is attached to, haha.
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  #4  
Old November 21st, 2015, 11:31 PM
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Jate rings are next to useless, just think of where they are, under your Landy. you would be better off fitting recovery rings on the top of the bumper.
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  #5  
Old November 21st, 2015, 11:39 PM
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Keep in mind they were never intended as recovery points.
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  #6  
Old November 22nd, 2015, 09:34 AM
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Jate rings used in the wrong recovery will be dangerous. If your front frame horn(s) are compromised, which you should assume are unless you remove the bumper and inspect it thoroughly, they won't hold. They were meant to be used as tie down points not recovery points.
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  #7  
Old November 22nd, 2015, 10:11 AM
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genuine were forged, the aftermarket ones I have seen are just welded mild steel
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Old November 22nd, 2015, 10:37 AM
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So what constitutes a good front recovery point with a stock front bumper and no winch?
For the rear, I was thinking about a hitch mounted shackle.
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Old November 22nd, 2015, 10:44 AM
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A Dixon Bates is what I use.
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Old November 22nd, 2015, 10:52 AM
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Nice, where does that bolt to?
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  #11  
Old November 22nd, 2015, 10:54 AM
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It bolts onto your paper thin bumper with a small backing plate behind it.

Stock bumper is useless, you should get something solid if you plan on using it for recovery!! Make sure whatever you end up doing ties into the frame a bit.

something like this:
http://www.pangolin4x4.com/land-rove...uct-6355337252
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Old November 22nd, 2015, 11:22 AM
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This is Trey's front setup. The bow shackles are attached to galvanized LR parts often found on military trucks. They secure with the same bolts that the bumper does, the bolts need to be longer of course and you want grade 8.

The bumper is actually one of the early 110 ones that the factory galvanized. Much thicker than later ones and still looks great 30+ years later.
The under bumper winch tray is also a factory part from a NAS 90.

Like this setup because it doesn't obscure the classic front end lines and the recovery points are as high as you can get them( and bolt through the frame) which is key if the culprit is mud.

The original hole for the keyed hood lock in the grill surround that very early 110's came with was used for the winch remote plug.
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  #13  
Old November 22nd, 2015, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MGPete View Post
So what constitutes a good front recovery point with a stock front bumper and no winch?
IMO, it is not possible. The stock bumper is not strong enough to attach anything to. If you do not want an aftermarket bumper, a good choice is a military bumper. They have a built in central recovery point. If you can pickup a used one from someone that has installed a winch, you might get a good deal.
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  #14  
Old November 22nd, 2015, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
This is Trey's front setup. The bow shackles are atatched to LR parts often found on military trucks. They secure with the same bolts that the bumper does, the bolts need to be longer of course and you want grade 8.
I would be careful with that. The stock bolts are 10mm. With the leverage, those would be a bit too close to the edge. I would drill out for 1/2" bolts which is about 50% stronger.
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  #15  
Old November 22nd, 2015, 11:49 AM
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You could look for an Ex MOD like this. http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...pin-66132.html
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