JAOT: Just another overheating thread - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 17th, 2010, 09:01 PM
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Bill Lewis
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JAOT: Just another overheating thread

I have replaced everything in the cooling department after doing all the small things first. I went and got a flush a few weeks ago, but it did not help. I ordered a genuine replacement radiator and replaced it. Now it pretty much is worse. The oldest part in the system is the water pump that was replaced a couple of years ago.

I am on the course to get a custom rad built or the old one I pulled out recored and wondered if this could be something else. I have done 2 leak down tests (both hot and cold) they were negative. I have also gone through numerous burpings.

I guess I am just wondering if this is the right way to go? At this point, I just want it fixed regardless of what it costs me. It has gone beyond frustrating.

thanks,
Bill

PS - for those that care. Here is the list and results but it looks like most of the threads out there:
1) new tested thermostat
2) new radiator
3) new hoses
4) Water pump (2.5 years old)
5) new viscous
6) new sensors
7) flushed and filled by a rover mechanic
8) Ran seperate ground for my VDO gauge (which helped by giving me accurate readings)
9) Verified that the VDO is reading what I think it should based on IR thermometer

Notes: I can see a 20 degree or so drop from inlet to outlet. The weird this is at the outlet the water is like 170 but at the water pump inlet it is 190 already. I can see that at the sensor in the block it is in the 210-215 range. Seems like everywhere else the temp of the hoses and the manifold is only around 200.

Essentially, any driving now drives the temp to 210-225 all the time regardless of terrain. On hills @35 I can make it go directly from 195 or so to 215 in a few hundred yards.

Also, what temp does the AC fan turn on to help the engine fan? I thought I remembered it turning on way before these temps but then again, the IR thermometer shows the heat at that sensor at only 190.
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  #2  
Old June 18th, 2010, 07:48 AM
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fan clutch
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  #3  
Old June 18th, 2010, 12:51 PM
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Clay DeWan
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When you say flushed and filled by a mechanic, did they put the cooling system under a vacume load and then fill it? The shop I go to sucks all the air out of the system and then lets the created vacume pull in the coolant. For me, since I did not do that, and tried to fill it myself it cost me a 3.9.
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  #4  
Old June 18th, 2010, 01:33 PM
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Bill Lewis
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I replaced the fan clutch about 6 months ago and it still holds up to the "newspaper" test. I don't know how they filled it, but will call and ask. Unfortunately, I had that done before I swapped the new radiator in to see if the flush/fill would correct the problem. I filled it this time and maybe I should just have someone that does it with a vacuum do it to eliminate that possibilty.

thanks everyone!
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  #5  
Old June 20th, 2010, 02:05 PM
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Well, I had the cooling system vacuum filled and am still having the same problem. However today, I when running it up to temp with the nose up on the driveway, I noticed a slight but constant drip of oil onto the passenger side cat. I can't really see where it is originating but it is up above the starter or at least dripping oil all over that area.

Just wondering if you guys might think it is time for a head gasket?

thanks,
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Old June 20th, 2010, 04:59 PM
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I think you may be due for a head gasket.
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  #7  
Old July 2nd, 2010, 10:34 PM
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So, head gasket all changed out. Everything is running fine, but I am still overheating. Just not sure where or what to look at next. When checking the temps today with the IR, there wasn't much difference between the top and bottom hoses on the radiator. Could have gotten and bad one I guess. Maybe I will have the old one recored. dunno.

thanks for everyones help.

bill
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  #8  
Old July 2nd, 2010, 10:36 PM
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You could be running really lean. You getting a check engine light? Have you checked the timing?
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  #9  
Old July 3rd, 2010, 11:41 AM
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No check engine light. I tested it to make sure the bulb wasn't out. I was reading about timing and overheating. I tried reading the marks but couldn't see them. A buddy of mine said to color them in with chalk. Going to give that shot later this morning.

thanks for the help.
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  #10  
Old July 3rd, 2010, 04:06 PM
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So it looks like it is set to about 6 degrees BTDC. should I increase or decrease this? I tried increasing it to about 9 BTDC degrees but it didn't really do anything.

------ Follow up post added July 3rd, 2010 04:14 PM ------

I also swapped the new clutch fan for the old one just to make sure it wasn't that. I got the same results with the old viscous unit, and swapped the new one back in. Now it seems the new unit is pushing way more air. I haven't road tested it yet but I was curious if those things can seize or something.

I thought was supposed to happen was as it got warmer the spring would expand, engaging the clutch to cause the fan to spin faster?
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  #11  
Old July 3rd, 2010, 08:07 PM
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They either fail by locking on or not spinning enough. when hot it should sound like a jet engine.

6 degress sounds about right.
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Old July 6th, 2010, 10:19 AM
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I switched out the clutch on the fan for a the old one I keep in the spares kit and it is still overheating (210-220 F). So, I swapped back to the newer clutch. One thing I did notice was that neither fan seemed to give that jet engine noise when the engine was hot and it had the same resistance as when I first came out in the morning cold.

When it is hot, it just doesn't seem like the fan is pushing anymore air that it does when it is at normal operating temp. I tried the "newspaper" test and can't stop the fan. I could get the fan to spool up when I first started the engine and kept the RPMs up, but eventualy the fan would release and slow way down, after that it would never spool up again regardless of temperature.

bill
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  #13  
Old July 6th, 2010, 10:59 AM
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Bad fan clutch.
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Old July 6th, 2010, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Bad fan clutch.
Yup.
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  #15  
Old July 8th, 2010, 07:08 PM
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New fan clutch didn't help. I am going to ask a stupid question, for the hose coming out of the water pump to the heater core, does it matter which inlet on the heater core it goes to? I Have looked at pictures on the web and found it both ways and the RAVE doesnt really show it except in the engine coolant flow diagram is opposite of the manifold coolant diagram for the flow arrows.

bill

Reason I ask is the heater hoses are way hotter than anything else I checked in the engine with the IR thermometer.
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  #16  
Old July 8th, 2010, 09:44 PM
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The new fan clutch might be bad out of the box.
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  #17  
Old July 9th, 2010, 05:22 PM
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Man, I can't believer I have three of these that are bad. I essentially froze the clutch with some screws from my original one and the truck is staying cool.

Thanks again.

bill
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  #18  
Old July 9th, 2010, 06:26 PM
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hmmm that makes me wonder because my fan clutch seems to work but im still over heating even after the newspaper test. Well I'm in the process of rebiulding my radiator to a 4 core so hopefully after installing this with a new clutch fan everything will run extremely cool during the summer.
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Old July 9th, 2010, 06:33 PM
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Man, I can't believer I have three of these that are bad. I essentially froze the clutch with some screws from my original one and the truck is staying cool.

Thanks again.

bill
No problem. Aftermarket ones are shit and genuine are $400. Kind of a catch 22.
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  #20  
Old July 9th, 2010, 07:37 PM
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I've had enough of fan clutches. Last one lasted 3 months from new. Right now it's locked on with screws like yours. Between one of my D1s and my D90, thats 3 in a year. Thinking of going with this set up to see if it works/lasts any better:

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...8&postcount=17
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...4&postcount=22

Thats for a 97 but I think Pendy on the forum is putting together or has the details on a similar kit for the V-Belt set up like yours. May be worth considering?
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