Jack stand location for NAS D90 - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old December 22nd, 2015, 12:54 PM
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Jimmy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
I replaced my factory jack with this Powerbuilt combination hydraulic jack and jackstand. Highly recommended. I actually have two, but keep one in vehicle. Has everything I want in one.



That looks pretty clever. How does it compare in size to the factory jack? I love the factory jacks too much to replace them. I also really like the tire kit from a Disco II.
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  #22  
Old December 22nd, 2015, 01:03 PM
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i'ts much bigger. too big to put in the factory location passenger seat box. But that base is actually big enough to where it doesn't need a based plate in soft dirt. so again, alot of goodness going. I have it sitting on it's side and strapped down in the middle row floor area until I come up with something more clever. I might make a lockable mount for it on the roof rack.
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  #23  
Old December 22nd, 2015, 01:14 PM
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Atlantic British has a You Tube channel that covers a variety of Rover repairs. Some for the Disco are readily transferable to the D90. Check it out.
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  #24  
Old December 22nd, 2015, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ymc226 View Post
I'd rather tinker and do maintenance in my garage than try to learn golf. This coming from a MD.
Now, Lawrence, are you a surgeon or a psychiatrist or a dermatologist?
The answer could have a bearing on what technical advice is given...


.
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  #25  
Old December 22nd, 2015, 09:39 PM
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Lawrence
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
Now, Lawrence, are you a surgeon or a psychiatrist or a dermatologist?
The answer could have a bearing on what technical advice is given...


.
I'm a cardiologist. I don't operate but I do perform catheterizations and stents. I work well with my hands and have good dexterity but no arm or hand strength. Luckily, my son is 18 and quite strong so I can count on him for a little while longer before he goes to college.
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  #26  
Old December 22nd, 2015, 10:01 PM
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Just looked under the truck. It seems the frame portion is situated rather deep inside past the factory step bars and the level section is relatively short. If I put stands on the flat frame portion just back of the front wheel and in front of the rear wheel, it seems too short a section and too narrow as well to really keep the truck properly supported.

The only other part of the truck that I can see would support the truck adequately would be the axles but the casing is rounded and has a large asymmetric bulbous portion. Can I place the stands at these points?
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  #27  
Old December 22nd, 2015, 10:32 PM
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Yes, to answer your picture questions...you can place jackstands under either front or rear axle tube.
You can also put a stand under the front radius(axle) arms. Those are the two large arms that connect to the frame-- not the smaller steering arms.

Dont jack or put a stand under the rear axle trailing arms... they can bend.


Your 90 looks good underneath- not much(if any) corrosion.

.
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  #28  
Old December 22nd, 2015, 10:39 PM
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Thanks Jeff. The previous owner took very good care of it. I already put it away for the winter.
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  #29  
Old December 22nd, 2015, 10:46 PM
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I will also add that like evilfij posted previously, I always place the tires under the truck as an extra precaution.
If I am doing something in the middle, I will put the tire or tires at the front/rear.
If I'm doing something else, I will put the tires under the middle.
Just in case.


.
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  #30  
Old December 22nd, 2015, 11:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ymc226 View Post
I'm a cardiologist.
Well, thats a real doctor. Cardio residency and everything.
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  #31  
Old December 22nd, 2015, 11:17 PM
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I put the stands further out on the axles outside the radius arms. I use flat top stands under the rear of the frame too or at the very front of the frame, but they have to be really tall. The real question is why do you need to jack up the truck? Other than brakes which can be done with jacks/jack stands under the axles (if you are using just a jack jack stands or at a minimum tire back up is imperative -- this is why I have four plus jacks -- one for each wheel), you don't need to jack at all for basic servicing. If you are swapping springs, there is a process, but it is more complicated (and involves stands at the ends as I mentioned above).
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  #32  
Old December 23rd, 2015, 01:42 AM
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Good stuff on tackling your own maintenance. Re: the brakes, don't use the GT3 as the bar for difficulty. Porsche brakes are stupid easy to change. I could probably do front pads and rotors on my Porsche faster than I could change the oil on the D90. Defender rotors are a huge pain, especially if there is rust involved.

As or jack points, you can basically throw one anywhere (unlike the gt3). I've done anywhere along the axle tube, anywhere on the frame, i've done the rear bumper under and around the hitch receiver, Bottom edge of the steering guard (if you have one), i've seen some people go on the radius arm but I don't recommend that. If your truck has sliders then obviously they are fine too.
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  #33  
Old December 23rd, 2015, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
I use flat top stands under the rear of the frame too or at the very front of the frame, but they have to be really tall.
I do that when I put a rover on my friend's two post lift. The arms have to go too close together because of the short wheelbase so I always stick a tripod under the rear crossmember and one up front too so I don't accidentally rock it off the lift.
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  #34  
Old December 23rd, 2015, 10:14 AM
ymc226
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
I put the stands further out on the axles outside the radius arms. I use flat top stands under the rear of the frame too or at the very front of the frame, but they have to be really tall. The real question is why do you need to jack up the truck? Other than brakes which can be done with jacks/jack stands under the axles (if you are using just a jack jack stands or at a minimum tire back up is imperative -- this is why I have four plus jacks -- one for each wheel), you don't need to jack at all for basic servicing. If you are swapping springs, there is a process, but it is more complicated (and involves stands at the ends as I mentioned above).
Quote:
Originally Posted by sflash868 View Post
Good stuff on tackling your own maintenance. Re: the brakes, don't use the GT3 as the bar for difficulty. Porsche brakes are stupid easy to change. I could probably do front pads and rotors on my Porsche faster than I could change the oil on the D90. Defender rotors are a huge pain, especially if there is rust involved.

As or jack points, you can basically throw one anywhere (unlike the gt3). I've done anywhere along the axle tube, anywhere on the frame, i've done the rear bumper under and around the hitch receiver, Bottom edge of the steering guard (if you have one), i've seen some people go on the radius arm but I don't recommend that. If your truck has sliders then obviously they are fine too.
Good points. If the brakes on the D90 are more complicated than the Porsche which I assumed the opposite, I won't attempt it. I'll probably perform brake fluid flushing. Is it the same as on the Porsche that it would be much easier to have all 4 wheels off?

After reading on other forums regarding jack stand failures mostly of the ratcheting type, a pin type depending on pin strength seems more robust. Would the ESCO flat tops be OK to use on the axles or is there a way to modify the tops to have a cradle of sorts to minimize risks of slippage off the axel tubes. Pin type stands that I found are all very heavy duty for trucks. Good idea on using the tire placed underneath as a backup.
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  #35  
Old December 23rd, 2015, 10:29 AM
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Don't mean to high jack, but my GT3 brakes squeal like crazy! Do you have this same issue? Everyone tells me it's normal.
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  #36  
Old December 23rd, 2015, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ymc226 View Post
Good points. If the brakes on the D90 are more complicated than the Porsche which I assumed the opposite, I won't attempt it.
Well...they're more complicated in a manner of speaking. They're more work, but the level of technical complexity is still low.

The thing about the defender brakes is that the rotors are bolted onto the backside of the hub (not like the porsche where the hats knock off the lugs on the frontside of the hub.) This means you have to remove the hubs to remove the rotors. It's also a dirty job if you haven't been in there for a while or if you have a hub seal leak.

Pads on the Defender are very easy to change, however.
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  #37  
Old December 23rd, 2015, 12:05 PM
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Jack stands...schmack stands! Unless a wheel really needs to come off for something, I use two sets of ramps; one in front, one in back. This is next best think to owning a lift and is about as safe as you can get. Simply set a pair in front of each set of wheels, pop her into low range and walk it right up. Exercises t-case, as well. Try it, guys. You'll love it.
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  #38  
Old December 23rd, 2015, 04:22 PM
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Lawrence
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blaughva View Post
Don't mean to high jack, but my GT3 brakes squeal like crazy! Do you have this same issue? Everyone tells me it's normal.
My brakes don't make any noise but they are PCCBs. Just took the wheels off to wash them inside and out as I need to drop them off to have new tires installed. The pads still have enough material not to replace. Got the car new in 2007 and just passed the 20K mile mark.
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  #39  
Old December 23rd, 2015, 04:44 PM
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Man that's a clean truck. jackstands can be tricky, i have the most trouble with unibody vehicles. rovers are a breeze
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