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  #401  
Old July 30th, 2007, 08:32 PM
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It seems that the M&D kits are supplied with defective accelerator cables. Mine stuck on my trip to Utah. It got so bad that I ended up tying a wire to the lever, and ran it back into the cab through the bulkhead. Whenever I needed to decelerate, I pulled on the wire. Drove almost the entire way back like that Per Pendy's advice, I went back to the stock V8 cable. It's now been on for much longer than the previous cable, and no problems.

You might also play around with the kickdown cable setting. I tried every position until I found the one that worked best for me. I prefer having the trans stay in gear longer so my kickdown cable is set very light (i.e. minimal stroke and tension).
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  #402  
Old July 30th, 2007, 09:53 PM
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mark kellgren
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I went to RN for my accelerator cable replacement. The 2.8 injector pump is in the same exact spot as the 300tdi on the right side, so the tdi cable fit perfectly. the V8 throttle assembly is on the left side of the block, so the v8 cable should be too long.
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  #403  
Old July 30th, 2007, 10:39 PM
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I thought the V8 cable might be too short (think this is what you meant), but Pendy said it would work. And of course, it did. M&D sent me out a replacement (I assume the 300 Tdi cable) so I'm keeping that as an emergency replacement should the V8 cable fail.
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  #404  
Old July 31st, 2007, 08:04 AM
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Jim C.
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Is there any good information out there on adjusting the kick-down cable? Has anyone come up with a good procedure of their own?

jC
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  #405  
Old July 31st, 2007, 09:08 AM
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I haven't had any problems with M&D's throttle cable yet. I did however, have to raise the A/c compressor bracked up about an 1/8" to allow kick-down lever to clear. I opted not to "bend down" the lever.
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  #406  
Old July 31st, 2007, 10:09 PM
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Jim - There is very general information available for adjusting the kickdown cable, but I haven't see anything real detailed. Probably because very application is a little different, and it's partly personal taste on how it's adjusted. In general, less tension provides later, softer shifting. And more tension provides sooner, harder shifting. I literally played around with every hole position on the kickdown lever and various cable tensions until I understood how it affected the shifting and where I wanted it to be. The easiest way to approach this is to first try the two extremes to see how the shifting changes. Then decide where you want to be relative to the two extremes, and start tweaking it in from there. How much you need to tweak depends upon how sensitive you are to the changes.

Michael - I took a look at my AC compressor bracket relative to the kickdown lever, and it's nowhere close to it. Did your bracket come from M&D? That's where mine came from, and it works with no problem. They did forget to send me the kickdown lever with the kit, but shipped a replacement immediately.
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  #407  
Old August 1st, 2007, 09:06 AM
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Ryan - Yes, all from M&D. At a little over 50% throttle, the kickdown lever starts to swing underneath the a/c compressor bracket on my set-up.
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  #408  
Old August 1st, 2007, 07:19 PM
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Michael - I've attached a few pics of what mine looks like. Is yours the same?
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  #409  
Old August 1st, 2007, 11:16 PM
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Ryan - the base plate of my bracket does not have the "corner" cut like yours, and that is where the lever hits.
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  #410  
Old August 2nd, 2007, 04:05 AM
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Ah, guess M&D realized there was a problem, and fixed it after you got your kit.
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  #411  
Old August 2nd, 2007, 12:07 PM
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Will the "crankshaft pulley fixing tool" for a 300tdi work on the HS2.8L's pulley?
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  #412  
Old August 4th, 2007, 04:29 PM
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mark kellgren
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I'm planning the installation of a wading kit for my 110 with manual tranny and 2.8 diesel. the points I need to hit are both axles, tranny, transfer case and timing cover, right? am I missing any?

does the 2.8 have a wading plug on the timing case in the same location as the 300tdi? Haven't looked.
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  #413  
Old August 5th, 2007, 11:37 AM
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There is a wading plug on the timing case, on the underside of the engine.
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  #414  
Old August 5th, 2007, 02:02 PM
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mark kellgren
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael
There is a wading plug on the timing case, on the underside of the engine.
do you know if there are any breathers on the engine that need extension with a wading kit?
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  #415  
Old August 10th, 2007, 01:37 PM
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mark kellgren
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Parts search continues...but..it lives! Just not in North America

Got a response back from Nav-International, International's parent. They refer to it as the "HS series" motor. They said it is still made and sold, just not in NA.

http://www.mwm-international.com.br/...ies&idSerie=5#
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  #416  
Old December 12th, 2007, 06:54 PM
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shane cates
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Sorry to bring back an old thread, but I actually spent time reading the whole thing and I would love an update from those that have had success. Cooling system, R380nas? rear gears and tires, install issues etc.
Thanks
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  #417  
Old December 13th, 2007, 10:56 AM
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Brian Love
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Don't apologize....this is one of the best threads on here. I love mine (when I get to drive it....silly terrorists). I was having no issues with mine (R380; re-geared transfer for 33s). I haven't been able to really test mine off road (I was 'vacationing' at home between deployments), but the AZ summer was no issue. I did upgrade to a bigger rad - that was non-negotiable for PHX summers. I was lazy and had someone put it in for me, so I can't comment on the install, that and I have a Disco....

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander
Parts search continues...but..it lives! Just not in North America

Got a response back from Nav-International, International's parent. They refer to it as the "HS series" motor. They said it is still made and sold, just not in NA.

http://www.mwm-international.com.br/...ies&idSerie=5#

Mark, where are you at with this? FYI - my truck is at Verdones right now....paint shop is next. I might go with the same green that my Dad's '98 was...
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  #418  
Old December 16th, 2007, 05:10 PM
Michael
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All good.

10,000 miles for me.
Just replaced fuel lift pump - the primary fuel filter I added (and since removed) on the vacuum side had a vacuum leak in its priming pump and this eventually may have damaged the lift pump. It would not provide adequate pressure to the injection pipe under high rev, almost full throttle conditions accelerating to 30mph up a 10% grade. I "think" the stanadyne fuel additive may have provided enough extra residual lubricity during cavititation and protected the fuel injection pump (had to crack the injectors to re-prime and get moving) or the fact that I was moving slow when it happened. This happened 3 times after the same hill before I pinpointed the fuel lift pump was the culprit.

Just installed a mandrel bent 3" exhaust from turbo back. turbo boost readings are much healthier than with the downpipe and system that came with kit.
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  #419  
Old May 9th, 2008, 01:04 PM
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David Marchand
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I'm at 20K miles and the 4 year anniversary. Just upgraded the cooling,intercooler and re-installed AC.

Other than munching an auto-box last summer, all is swell.

If you are doing the swap on a '97, I recommend removing the anti-theft ECU inside the dash. It was like a had a ghost in the machine
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  #420  
Old May 9th, 2008, 02:54 PM
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jim pendleton
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I always wire around the anti-theft ECU for the starter/run circuit. It is a ghost in the machine.

JP
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