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  #381  
Old July 27th, 2007, 11:32 AM
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mark kellgren
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brian,
Are they not letting you off the FOB or what? Get back out on patrol, so we can get out of Iraq!

Are you using Sigovia or have something in your CHU?
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  #382  
Old July 27th, 2007, 11:40 AM
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Brian Love
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It is funny you say that Mark....I have recently found a way off of this little piece of Purgatory. I have to work with the infantry though....

I was thinking of seeing what I could do to make sure you get another rotation.....my Active Duty packet went in a few day ago. Besides, these rotations are getting me cool stuff for the truck....interior, paint, and...

Back to your regular scheduled forum....How's your engine doing? BIAP has soooo many 110's running around it is depressing. I am going to see what it takes to get one of them de-MILed and shipped to my house. I was talking to some active duty CA guys and they prefer the Defenders over the Land Crusiers when they do the Africa rotations....'they are more reliable and can take a beating (read: racing across the desert).
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  #383  
Old July 27th, 2007, 12:04 PM
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mark kellgren
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roverowner
I was talking to some active duty CA guys and they prefer the Defenders over the Land Crusiers when they do the Africa rotations....'they are more reliable and can take a beating (read: racing across the desert).
You have got to post that over on the expo portal!
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  #384  
Old July 27th, 2007, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roverhybrids
I'd suggest that you guys put your EGT probe in the exhaust manifold before the turbo.
Shane - That's definitely the preferred location, but on the 2.8, the exhaust manifold isn't very accessible and doesn't have much of a collector. I know you've worked with the 2.8. Did you find a good spot on the exhaust manifold for the sensor? Most everyone I know who's running an EGT sensor on the 2.8 has located it in the downpipe. I also seem to recall that someone measured about a 100-200 degF difference pre- vs post-turbo as long as the sensor isn't too far from the turbo.

Brian - If you're running stock fueling, the EGT gauge isn't too important, but I'd still run one just to make sure. For diesels, it gives you the best feedback for how you're engine is running. Once you get to know what you should be seeing under which conditions, you'll know if you're engine's running properly. It can also prevent meltdown if you see that the EGT's are getting excessively high (~ >1200 degF pre-turbo). This generally occurs when climbing long grades especially if you're fueling has been turned up. If your EGT's are unusually low, then you may have a low fueling problem.
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  #385  
Old July 27th, 2007, 06:49 PM
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Jim C.
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Whew... this thread makes my head spin. Alrighty then! Here's my data

'94 D-90 with a 300Tdi/ZF/1.2 transfer from a '99 D1. (all electronic hocus-pocus removed) I'm running 4.10's and 35x10.5 SSR's. The radiator and intercooler are stock, and the pump has barely been touched. I've got about 1000 miles on the truck. Max coolant temperature (in 90+degree Charlotte) has been 195 degrees, and max EGT measured at the EGR blank-off plate has been 1100 degrees. The truck will cruise up mild inclines at 70-75 mph, but not much more.

Fuel economy is about 20 mpg, which is bothering me a little......

Thoughts? Ideas?
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  #386  
Old July 28th, 2007, 12:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC
For reference, I run my 300tdi with a 1.2 box. It will pull decent grades in 4th gear at 55-60mph, but I'll drive the EGT's close to 900 if I keep at it for more than a few minutes. I can run 85 with no problems on flat freeway (but I dont usually cruise higher than 60-65). The MPG is around 24-25 at 65mph and staying under 650 degrees. 80 mph results in 20-21 mpg and 850 degrees EGT. Rolling terrain typically requires going uphill in 4th and picking up speeds on the downhills.
JimC - Meant to ask, what axle ratio are you running? I'm guessing 4.10, but would like to confirm. Thanks.
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  #387  
Old July 28th, 2007, 07:33 AM
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gauges

Hi Brian.

I have installed a BD X-monitor on the A pillar, and rigged it to give me EGT, Boost, and oil temp. The oil temp I am using for transmission fluid temperature but you can put it anywhere. the stock water temp gauge is not connected but I think I am going to connect it to engine oil temp or maybe stick it in the passenger seat to monitor my date's body temperature.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roverowner
I don't have an EGT hooked up....what is the benefit of that vs. just the water temp gauge? is there a Correct-hand drive console that I can put in my Disco that will support additional gauges?
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  #388  
Old July 28th, 2007, 07:58 AM
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Jim Cheney
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan Sakurada
JimC - Meant to ask, what axle ratio are you running? I'm guessing 4.10, but would like to confirm. Thanks.
Stock axles - thats 4.10 right?
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  #389  
Old July 28th, 2007, 08:58 AM
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Jim C.
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Stock is 3.54
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  #390  
Old July 28th, 2007, 09:03 AM
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Ok, then 3.54
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  #391  
Old July 29th, 2007, 03:35 AM
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From the numbers I've seen, it seems that the ZF costs a few mpg. My 2.8 gets 17-18 city and 20-22 hwy. 2.8/R380 numbers I've seen have been around 20-25 mpg. It also seems that most run a 4.9:1 combined TC/Axle ratio (1.4*3.54 or 1.2*4.10) with the ZF. However, with the R380, it appears to be more feasible to run at 4.2:1 (1.2*3.54). So the R380 not only eliminates the losses of the auto trans, but may also allow the use of a taller drivetrain ratio which again helps fuel mileage (another side benefit is you can run a "Q" box which is much quieter than the "T") . There are obviously reasons that people run the ZF, but there is also a price we pay for it. I'm still on the fence as to whether I'm going to keep my ZF or not. I'm first going to do some intercooler and fueling mods, and then make a decision. Fuel mileage isn't my greatest concern, but I'd like to be able to cruise up grades a little easier.
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  #392  
Old July 29th, 2007, 10:26 PM
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George Kase
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Ryan,
can you offer more info about "run a "Q" box which is much quieter than the "T"?
I think my gearbox is louder than my 300tdi!
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  #393  
Old July 30th, 2007, 12:29 AM
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George - This is how Land Rover describes the difference:

"The LT230Q, whilst similar to the LT230T differs mainly in the following areas:
Helix angle of gears increased to 31 together with an increase in the number of gear teeth thus giving quieter running and an increase in power transmission efficiency.
Increased length mainshaft input gears together with increased thickness bearing housing and repositioned bearing.
Redesigned intermediate gear bearings.
Redesigned high gear bush giving quieter running."

The "Q" version is available in 1.2 TC's, but not 1.4's. I had been running an LT230Q for quite a while until I installed the 2.8. For that I switched to the 1.4 LT230T (freshly rebuilt by Ashcroft). I had forgotten how much these TC's whine.
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  #394  
Old July 30th, 2007, 04:01 AM
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George Kase
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Ryan,
Aha! once again you have contributed a "tech tips" worthy contribution to the discussion!!! How do I determine if a transfer case is T or Q? does it Literally have a T or Q at the end of its stamping number or something?
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  #395  
Old July 30th, 2007, 04:27 AM
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Unfortunately it's not as easy as seeing a "T" or "Q" on the transfer case. Dave Ashcroft told me a while back (when I was ordering my 1.4 TC) that the "Q" gears only come on the TC's with a 1.211 ratio. There is a stamped marking on the TC (either below the PTO cover or on the flat surface on the driver's side of the case). The first two numbers and the last letter describe the configuration. From Ashcroft's listings, it appears that the 1.211 ratios started at 32D. I'm not sure if that's when they started using the "Q" gears or not, but you'd need to be at least that number or higher to have a chance at having the "Q" configuration. Rob Dassler can probably confirm that.
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  #396  
Old July 30th, 2007, 12:32 PM
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ZF auto

For those whose 2.8 was mated to the stock NAS V-8 autobox:

Did you change/modify the torque converter? I spoke with J.Pendleton and few months back and recommended the torque converter be tuned for better power transmission.

Follow-up Post:

From Ashcrofts site, I get the impression that:

the stock torque converter in 4.6L engine autoboxes is the best, the 4.0L's is next in line, and then the 300tdi's.
says that a stock 300tdi
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  #397  
Old July 30th, 2007, 01:05 PM
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Brian Love
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael
I spoke with J.Pendleton and few months back and recommended the torque converter be tuned for better power transmission.

Pendy has spoken; let it be so.
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  #398  
Old July 30th, 2007, 02:18 PM
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David Marchand
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Pendy has the answers. I have one of his tuned converters and it seems to make a difference. The governor on the trans is also important
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  #399  
Old July 30th, 2007, 03:02 PM
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Peter Carey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan Sakurada
Peter - There's a "W" terminal on the alternator that's for the tach signal. It's really hard to see with the vacuum pump there. My tach uses an external sensor so I didn't use the "W" signal, but I ran a wire anyway since it's so hard to get in there. Not sure if this signal will work with the stock tach or not, but it's worth a try. Or get a tach like mine that uses the external sensor that mounts on the case of the alternator.

On the EGT sensor location, I located mine right where the downtube makes the bend out of the turbo. It gets up around 900 degF so it seems to be reading fairly well. I presume the stock fueling wouldn't allow the temps to get much higher than 1000-1100 degF pre-turbo.

Interesting comments on your gearing/speeds. On most interstate grades, I can almost wind out the engine in 3rd. Which means I can do 60, but the engine is really humming. So I'll run closer to 50 just to relax the engine. I was thinking that the 1.2 TC might help me run at 60-65 in 3rd without winding the engine up so much. But it doesn't sound like that's the case for you.

Anyway, it's good to hear that you're finally on the road.
Ok, I'm a complete dork. I didn't check the accelerator cable. It turns out (and I still need to tweak it) the stop screw for the peddle was set way too high (from the V8 setting and I never messed with it). I took a 1000 mile road trip this weekend and it was bogging as always....while I couldn't help but feel it actually had more to give. It wasn't until the way home, just before hitting some 10MPH traffic, that I backed the screw way off in a highly unscientific way. This helped a ton! It stayed in 4th more (when the traffic eased up) and was performing like you mention, with 65MPH being easy and no more 55MPH and 3rd gear going up slight inclines, and I mean SLIGHT.

For reference, before I could do 64MPH or so in 3rd but with unknown RPMs It didn't feel bad though. But it was bogging down in 3rd up hills before I made the screw change. Right now it is about out of fuel (my fuel gauge isn't set right either, go figure) but I did run 360 miles on a complete fill up and was getting 18.3MPG with some tall passes and about 160 miles off off-highway slow driving. I'm confident with it staying in 4th more with the screw setting, I might climb to 20MPG. Before figuring out the screw, I was set on going back to the 1.4:1.

With all that said, how have you all set your accelerator cable? Floor the peddle and then make that wide open on the trhrotle body?
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  #400  
Old July 30th, 2007, 08:08 PM
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mark kellgren
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pcarey
With all that said, how have you all set your accelerator cable? Floor the peddle and then make that wide open on the trhrotle body?
That's how I did mine. i had a bad accelerator cable in my kit, so I had to replace it and installed it myself. I first adjusted pedal screw completely closed so it didn't hit the floor at all. Then I set the cable throttle adjustment knob to allow for full unimpeded movement of the throttle lever on the injector pump at min and max. after that was set, I went to the pedal, and depressed with my hand to max full throttle stop, then set the screw about a half turn past that, so that the weight of my foot while driving would never put extra stress on the cable passed max throttle. My guess is that is what the pedal screw is for. The actual adjustment is done at the other end of the cable under the bonnet.
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