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  #261  
Old February 20th, 2006, 02:39 PM
artm
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Arthur Maravelis
97 SW
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I'm afraid for my application (110, auto), the only viable solution is cubic inches. I am sure the 2.8/ZF is not ideal for "American" driving.

I already had an adapter made for the 700R4/LT230 so may as well give it a try.
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  #262  
Old February 20th, 2006, 05:04 PM
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sheki
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David Shechter
97' D90 SW 2.8L diesel
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Location: New York City
Posts: 578
Quote:
Originally Posted by artm
So, in the end I'll have a 2.8/ZF that:

1. may not be a perfect fit (performance-wise) even with a Tdi ZF.

2. may not be a reliable fit (longevity).

3. will not be a good fit to regularly do 70.


With diesel being as much as 20% higher than premium, 40% higher than regular, I may just be better off with a SBC EFI and a 700R4. Heck, if I can get 20MPG out of that setup in a 110 I will not give up a lifetime of fun driving just to have a diesel up front!

I think it's time we considered a REAL diesel for use with an auto. Still though, I'll take that Chevy 350.
You just don't get it! Do you read any of the post in this forum or do you just skim through them and make stupid comments!
I have driven 80-85mph for hundreds of miles straight
I used the 97' ZF without complications
the engine will drive for hundreds of thousands of miles before nearing the end of it's life

But then again you know it all, why am I bothering to try and explain it to you?

If your main reason for getting a diesel is for fuel economy... keep your V8, it'll take you 20 years before you see and savings. Fuel economy is not why we do the conversion, that's a very "poseur" type mind set. We do it for better off-road ability. If you are concerned about gas, buy a Hybrid! or be a real man and do a home brew bio-diesel in your back yard, I think people are claiming about .50 per gallon.
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  #263  
Old February 20th, 2006, 05:25 PM
artm
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Arthur Maravelis
97 SW
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I stated that in my application it is not the solution. Now with all these cooling issues being expressed it is one more reason for me to avoid it.


I have driven 80-85mph for hundreds of miles straight

- So have I in the 300Tdi. I don't think that is good for the long term for that engine, or perhaps yours.


I used the 97' ZF without complications

- Did you change the internals? Using it as is is settling for a non-optimal setup. I've also driven a Tdi ZF Disco and was not happy with it. I spoke with ECR about the 110/2.8/ZF aetup and they did NOT recommend it. I think their opinion is valued.


The engine will drive for hundreds of thousands of miles before nearing the end of it's life

- Perhaps, let us know when you get there. I can replace three SBC's for each 2.8 and have more fun for all those miles.


Yes, yes. I know why people turn diesel. I already have it but need an automatic. The only reason to stick with it would have been for economy. Now that this setup for me would prove to be gutless I will switch to the V8. Getting it to 20MPG is just a bonus at this point - I'd be fine at 15.

It's "poseur" and I'm far from it. As for off-roading I prefer the V8 and stay away from water.
There's noting poseur about switching to diesel for the economy. My 110 isn't an off-roader so the only real issue was economy. I ran the spreadsheet and my break-even point was less than 10 years to switch to the 2.8.

I did have visions of allocating an acre of land towards a home brew bio-diesel but I have come to my senses. And it's $0.50 if you start with used veggie oil - not for me.

My friend, in the end, it's cubic inches that do the job - and good 'ol American at that.. Off-road or on the road, there's no substitute.
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  #264  
Old February 21st, 2006, 11:09 AM
BT.
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Bruno Tome
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sheki
We do it for better off-road ability.
Is that really why you did it David ?

you have come to the conclusion after driving your V8 NAS Defender (which incidently happens to be the envy of the rest of the world) off-road, that it needs a fifteen thousand dollar engine upgrade to perform better off-road ?

If you lived in a part of the world where the diesel motor is common and every 90 has one, would you be a V8 conversion guy ?
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  #265  
Old February 21st, 2006, 12:51 PM
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sheki
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David Shechter
97' D90 SW 2.8L diesel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BT.
Is that really why you did it David ?

you have come to the conclusion after driving your V8 NAS Defender (which incidently happens to be the envy of the rest of the world) off-road, that it needs a fifteen thousand dollar engine upgrade to perform better off-road ?

If you lived in a part of the world where the diesel motor is common and every 90 has one, would you be a V8 conversion guy ?

Bruno, I respect you... plus youíre a friend of John's which carries a lot of weight with me, so I will humor your off handed question.

I spent 1 year looking for a truck with high miles to suit this build. I finally found one with 150k miles on it that was $10k less than any other truck I had come across, the savings were used for the purchase of the engine. My reason for wanting this engine was indeed for better off-road capability as well as wanting to add an auxilary fuel tank. Adding a second tank to a petro engine is not recomended due to it's increased compustability vs. diesel. At the time this was something I very much wanted to do... increase the range on my truck. I was not thrilled with the idea of carrying multiple, let alone any, jerry cans and though having a second tank would be a perfect solution on long expeditions. Since the completion (or near completion) I have decided against the second tank, even though it has already been fabricated. The engine performs beautifully off road, I don't know if you have ever had the oportunity to drive one off road; however, I'm assuming you've been with Frank Motley and seen his in action. There is no denying that for off-road performance, especially out west, where I keep my truck, it's serves it's purpose. Of course the added mpg were very attractive! I would not have spent "$15k" on this conversion for an extra 5mpg, thatís just retarted! I look at the added range as just the cherry on top. My truck drives with essentially the same finess as the 4.0 with the only exception being acceleration from a dead stop.
If they all drove V8's across the pond... they would want a diesel too. The grass is always greener on the other side. If you were to ask LR owners in the UK which diesel engine they would prefer, my guess would be the 2.8. It's as coveted there as it is here. It's just an awesome engine, no matter what part of the world you're in.

Hope this answered your question.
The reason I wrote that stuff to Art, was simply to bust his balls. I was fed up with his Holier than thou smug remarks about everything. He was really starting to irritate me, and the poseur thing was something he loves to throw around so I figured let's see how he liked it. Obviously he didn't, he got very defensive about being called a poseur... I wonder why?

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by artm
...My friend, in the end, it's cubic inches that do the job - and good 'ol American at that.. Off-road or on the road, there's no substitute.
So why the fuck are you driving a British vehicle and looking to put a South American made engine in it?

Or is this just one more stupid comment of yours to add to the ever growing list.
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Sheki, you are a wang too.
A wang is another word for, you guessed it, A DICK!

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  #266  
Old February 21st, 2006, 12:57 PM
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pendy
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jim pendleton
89'd90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artm
I'm afraid for my application (110, auto), the only viable solution is cubic inches. I am sure the 2.8/ZF is not ideal for "American" driving.

I already had an adapter made for the 700R4/LT230 so may as well give it a try.

Alright pot stirrer. The small block conversion has its place. I am in the middle of a couple chebby v8TBI swaps as well. And in a D110 I would tend to agree with your rationale, especially if you are going to run larger tires.

You said your peace now move along and let us have some positive discussion. If you had told me your applicatiton I would have already determined your need as you have just finally arrived at. Or I would have told you to pay me to install one of the 4.2 straight six diesel MWM engines that Stephen can get from Brazil now. The R&D will be expen$ive though. Hope you have deep pockets.


Lets get back on track. Cahil and I called for peace between us. Why don't the rest of you follow our 'example.'

JP
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  #267  
Old February 21st, 2006, 01:06 PM
BT.
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Bruno Tome
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Fair enough David, thank you for taking the time to post a response. I too have considered a diesel conversion primarily for the simplicity of the engine and of course the range, as you mentioned.

As for Col. Frank Motley's truck, yes it most certainly is an awesome performer (as are other diesels i've been out with), however, i'm not sure a petrol truck given a driver of the Col's ability would not do equally well - barring of course water fording.

It seems you had a well thought-out plan, I hope to see your truck in person sometime.
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  #268  
Old February 21st, 2006, 01:23 PM
artm
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Arthur Maravelis
97 SW
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Location: Boston, MA USA
Posts: 985
Quote:
Originally Posted by sheki
The reason I wrote that stuff to Art, was simply to bust his balls. I was fed up with his Holier than thou smug remarks about everything. He was really starting to irritate me, and the poseur thing was something he loves to throw around so I figured let's see how he liked it. Obviously he didn't, he got very defensive about being called a poseur... I wonder why?
1. I never intend to sound holier than thou and don't think I do. If your skin is that sensitive I am sorry.

2.You brought up "poser" not me. If I throw around a poseur comment it's usually legitimitate. V8's with snorkels comes to mind. Did you ever have that setup, you poseur?

3. Defensive, moi? Doubt it. If I'm wrong I have NO PROBLEM spilling my guts or taking the shot.



Perhaps I didn't make my application clear from the start. I thought I mentioned "110", "auto" somewhere there. If not, my fault. Oops, I hope that wasn't too defensive.



Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy
install one of the 4.2 straight six diesel MWM engines
I just had an extended conversation with Stephen on this, and other stuff. I guess it won't hurt to look into it so I won't bother you with newbie questions.


So, let's all make peace - or, rather, just David and me. And keep on POSEUR-ing.
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  #269  
Old February 21st, 2006, 01:55 PM
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Big Gord
1971 IIA 88
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Just thought i would check in, i see things haven't changed much here...just different names......the fight still goes on....hehehe!!!


fwiw.............i have had no cooling issues with my truck at all, i used all 300tdi components
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  #270  
Old February 21st, 2006, 02:18 PM
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sheki
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David Shechter
97' D90 SW 2.8L diesel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artm
...So, let's all make peace - or, rather, just David and me. And keep on POSEUR-ing.
No problem with that, I'll still winch you when you get stuck on the trail
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Sheki, you are a wang too.
A wang is another word for, you guessed it, A DICK!

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  #271  
Old February 22nd, 2006, 12:16 PM
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pendy
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jim pendleton
89'd90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tdi Lurker
Just thought i would check in, i see things haven't changed much here...just different names......the fight still goes on....hehehe!!!


fwiw.............i have had no cooling issues with my truck at all, i used all 300tdi components
With 1800 miles on it you probably barely drove it out of the trailer park to test it out.

You still trying to sell it?

Here goes the peace.

JP
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  #272  
Old February 22nd, 2006, 12:33 PM
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Big Gord
1971 IIA 88
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it never was really for sale.....just had a few inquires and the price scared them all away and shut them up.............it has about 15,000 miles on the engine now............just about ready for the second oil change.

it fact since i put the engine in and all set up i have never laid a wrench to it other than an oil change and good checkover...

i must say the engine has performed much better than the service (or lack of it) and ordeal to get it.

hope your getting paid well by your little buddy to all his R&D work... :o))))))
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  #273  
Old February 22nd, 2006, 01:08 PM
OBW_Canada
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Stephen Cahill
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Dartmouth Nova Scotia Canada
Posts: 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy
With 1800 miles on it you probably barely drove it out of the trailer park to test it out.

You still trying to sell it?

Here goes the peace.

JP
Hey Pendy
Did a little of my are chair digging on how some design engineers look at cooling an engine. Got a reply back from one engineer on a personal vehicle putting a 2.8 into a Troller (SA Jeep)
Begin quote:
Unfortunately you are right. I had a similar experience here in Brazil when I
installed the 4.07 TCA (Sprint engine) into a Troller Jeep.
Normally we use as minimum limit ATB = 45 oC . I used a big radiator to meet
only 42 oC it is a truck radiator and it is bigger than the radiators used in
similar application for the same engine (132 cv).
The ATB parameters that the OEM considers are around 35 oC.
In my opinion you need to be reasonable according to the application and the
service of the vehicle you are installing the engine.
Other important point is the core efficiency, pick-ups can use more fins/inch
in the radiator and achieve better efficiency when compared with jeeps core.
Some times the vehicle does not have area enough to install the right radiator
but the vehicle will never use the maximum power for a long time so you can
release the installation under some uses restriction.
End quote.
Now where we do not want any restrictions on the use or speed of the vehicle more cooling power per square inch of radiator is needed.
Have you looked at the actual construction of the rad you are developing? Is it a car standard or a truck standard?
What is the ATB you are using? For those who do not know (Air To Boil )ratio.
Then you can look at how some companies design cooling systems.
This is a cut and paste.
you know I do not get out much!!
Environment:
Consider what kind of debris might get drawn into the cooling system by the fan during operation. Such as grass clippings on a lawn mover, or textile products on a fork lift that's working in a mill. The cleaner the environment the more economical the radiator core.
If it's a real dirty environment, and the piece of equipment has screens to prevent debris from entering the cooling system, note this fact so that we can allow for some additional air resistance when calculating the air flow.
Envelope Size:
These are the maximum outside dimensions for the cooling system. The dimensions are taken from the driver's point for view. Allowable Deviations in Size:
Specify any possible deviations in the envelope size, because this allows us to match up a system to any existing tooling; in effect reducing the system price. This is quite possibly the most cost-effective parameter that you can provide.
Describe Radiator Mounting:

Describe the type of mounting that the radiator will be subject to. Does it have vibration isolation? Will it be hard mounted to a frame structure that might twist? Is there a saddle required? Will the radiator be mounted with wings on the channels?
Cooling System Components:

For every component in the airflow path that IHTC is not providing, please include a graph of its resistance vs. air flow.
Component Position in Airflow:

Consider the direction that the air will be flowing, and then number the individual components starting with the one closest to the ambient air, or the coolest air.
Example: Pusher Fan pulling ambient air over the engine before pushing it into the cooling system. If two or more components are side by side, enter a duplicate number for each component. Example:
  • No. 1 Fan
  • No. 2 Radiator
  • No. 3 Transmission Cooler
Designed Heat Rejection:

If there are components in the cooling system that IHTC will not be providing, it is important that we know the amount of heat rejection that component is designed to radiate; usually in BTU/min or kW.

Component Max. Press. Drop

If IHTC is going to design this component, we will need to know the maximum pressure drop allowed.

Component Max. Coolant Temp.

If IHTC is designing this component, we will need to know what the maximum coolant temperature can be. This equivalent to the maximum top tank temperature on a radiator, or maximum inlet temperature. Radiators are usually 210�F to 233�F. Transmissions range from 240�F to 260�F. Hydraulic coolers typically are 180�F.
Fan Curve:

We must have a fan curve, or be able to acquire a fan curve from the manufacturer, in order to design a system.
Engine to Drive Ratio:

This is the ratio of the fan RPM to the engine RPM. Larger fans typically run slower than the engine, (speed reduction), and small fans usually run faster, (speed multiplier.) This is because the fan tip speed limit is between 16,000 and 20,000 ft/min. Most applications will try to reach this limit for optimum performance, unless there are noise or horsepower issues.
Core Face to Fan Distance:

This is the distance from the fan blade face and the next cooling component inline; typically the radiator core. This distance is critical to proper airflow and to the durability to the fan. If the distance is too close the air flow will focus on only that portion of the core that is covered by the fan blades, rendering the core section covered by the center hub section of the fan useless. If the fan is too close there will also be a constant flexing of the fan blades due to the proximity of the core face. Pressure gradient problems.
Fan Shroud:

Fan Centered On the Core

Yes or No. If the fan is not centered, use the next two boxes to describe how far off the core centerline the fan is located.
Engine Data:

Deaeration Required: This question has three answers:

  • 1. No. There isn't a baffle required in the top tank.
  • 2. Partial baffle. There is a flow-diverting baffle in the top tank but it isn't sealed.
  • 3. Full deaeration baffle. There is a fully sealed top tank with a by-pass tube.
Cummins engines generally require a full deaeration top tank. Many John Deere engines only require a partial baffle that extends to within 1" of the tank top.



Engine Coolant Qt.'s:

The engine coolant capacity in quarts.

Coolant Recovery System:

Is there a coolant recovery system?

Heat Rejection to Air:

The engine manufacture will usually specify a heat rejection to coolant, a heat rejection to exhaust, and a heat rejection to air. The heat rejection to air is used to help determine the temperature rise from ambient, to the cooling system, when a blower fan is used, and the air is being drawn over the engine before entering the cooling system.

Max. Coolant Press. Drop:

What is the maximum pressure drop across the radiator?

Heat Rise Over Engine:

Specify the anticipated temperature rise from ambient, when pulling air through the engine compartment before entering the cooling system.

Re-circulation Heat Rises:

Please specify any additional temperature rise from ambient, that will be associated with a re-circulation problem.
Application Design Parameters:

Max. Ambient Air Temp:

What is the maximum design ambient temperature of the air? This is the air temperature at a distance of 6 feet from the test vehicle. Generally it is 110�F, but can go as high as 125�F. This temperature does not take into consideration re-circulation temperature rises.

Air to Boil Temperature:

Some equipment manufactures specify an air to boil temperature for the radiator part of the cooling system which is based on ambient air, heat rises from other sources, and the top tank temperature to arrive at an air to boil out temperature. (Max. Top Tank Temp. - ITD - any additional heat rises = ATB). ITD = (BTU/min engine) / (BTU/min/F Radiator.)

Elevation:

Is the equipment designed to operate at a high elevation? What is the designed elevation? This effects the air flow and fan curve.

Engine Size to Engine Compartment Ratio:

How easy is it to draw air into the system and exhaust it? If this is a suction fan application pulling air through the cooling system, and exhausting it out over the engine, how easy will it be to get rid of the air? Generally, look at the engine sitting in the engine compartment, and specify a percentage of openings around the engine as compared to the engine size. Typically the open area is between 45% and 75% of the engine.

Additional Resistance Factors:

Sound damping louvers are used on stationary generators.
Small areas for air to exhaust from.
Tight grill structures.
Debris screens.


Any Additional Application Design Considerations:Sitting
Stephen
PS working on a few different options for the 4.2 transmission.
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  #274  
Old February 23rd, 2006, 12:01 AM
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pendy
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jim pendleton
89'd90
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: andover, ks usa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tdi Lurker
it never was really for sale.....just had a few inquires and the price scared them all away and shut them up.............it has about 15,000 miles on the engine now............just about ready for the second oil change.

it fact since i put the engine in and all set up i have never laid a wrench to it other than an oil change and good checkover...

i must say the engine has performed much better than the service (or lack of it) and ordeal to get it.

hope your getting paid well by your little buddy to all his R&D work... :o))))))
Glad you held on to it. Hope things are going well for you.

r&d pays?

JP

Follow-up Post:

R fin dimpled tube. 5 row 15x2 7/8 x 20 3/4 core
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  #275  
Old February 23rd, 2006, 12:03 AM
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sheki
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David Shechter
97' D90 SW 2.8L diesel
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Location: New York City
Posts: 578
Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy
Glad you held on to it. Hope things are going well for you.

r&d pays?

JP
With diplomacy like that you should go into politics... Oh, I forgot you're already the unofficial mayor of Augusta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MuddyOval
Sheki, you are a wang too.
A wang is another word for, you guessed it, A DICK!

Nothing racist, just pure DICK!
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  #276  
Old February 23rd, 2006, 01:00 AM
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Big Gord
1971 IIA 88
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r&d pays?




hahaha .....don't i know it......
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  #277  
Old February 26th, 2006, 09:31 AM
OBW_Canada
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Stephen Cahill
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Dartmouth Nova Scotia Canada
Posts: 28
Helping in the installation process of the 2.8 TGV

Well with over 10,000 viewings on this thread I thought this list should be seen.

This list was put together by none other that the Famous parts numbers guy of the D-90 mailing list Jamie.
This list does away with kits and uses OEM parts from Land Rover. Read on and enjoy. Just to let you know I have request in for UK pricing on the parts. Contact me directly for pricing if wanted in a few days.

Now some parts on the list can be modified with North American parts,intercoolers,radiators and oil coolers. That would be for the extreme use of the engine in a North American vehicle.

Begin Quote

Hi all, I spent some time looking through my parts book, I've gone from the front of the engine (radiator/intercooler) backwards towards the back of the vehicle(clutch/gearbox/exhaust). here's what i reckon you'll need (plus or minus bits, depending on what you buy with the engine!)

ESR 2727 Radiator/intercooler assy
ESR 3683 Same as above, but from chassis # TA976036

onwards, don't know the difference! However....if you decide to fit an oversized intercooler (ie Allard or
Fearn type thing) then you can fit the older 2.5 TurboD radiator, which has the internal oil cooler that the Tdi needs, and the oil cooler pipes are in the same place as the Tdi, you just have to make up some water
pipes as they are in a different place. this radiator is about 1/2 bigger than the Tdi,as it's full width and deeper! it's what i've got on my project90 and a few of my friends have done the same.)

ERR 2266 viscous unit for above
ERR 2789 cooling fan
ESR 2055,
ESR 2309 Fan cowl,300Tdi
ESR 2309 upper intercooler hose to engine,300Tdi
ESR 2729, lower intercooler hoses to engine,300Tdi (3 pieces needed)
ESR 2730,
ESR 3684 Radiator,2.5turbo D
ESR 1912 Oil cooler pipe, Feed
ESR 1913 Oil cooler pipe, Return

ANR 3200, Rubber gearbox mount,RH
ANR 3201, Rubber gearbox mount,LH
ANR 3713 Detachable gearbox crossmember

ANR 2868, Engine mount,chassis,RH
NTC 9415, engine mount,chassis,LH
NTC 9416 mounting rubber,engine, x2

FTC 1994 clutch plate,HD,D130
FTC 2149 clutch plate,standard,D90/D110
FTC 575 clutch cover
ERR 719 flywheel assembly
ERR 4723 housing,flywheel (bolts onto the back if the engine, in case yours doesn;t come with it)
FTC 2957 lever,clutch release,
FRC 9568 thrust bearing (throw out bearing to you!)
FTC 3911 Slave cylinder,clutch
FRC 2402 Backing plate/gasket for above
STC 2818 repair kit for slave cylinder

clutch master cylinder is the same for V8 and Tdi engines, as is the metal pipe that comes out of the cylinder down towards the bellhousing.

NTC 9055 Clutch hose, rubber (connects onto the slave cylinder)
NRC 9595 pipe assembly,slave cylinder
ANR 2784 Vacuum hose,Tdi,LHD (brake servo to engine vacuum pump)

NTC 1518 Fuel filter + mounting bracket,300Tdi
ESR 3118 fuel pipes,filter to engine
NTC 3346 banjo bolt,fuel pipe to filter x2
ESR 354 copper washer for above x4
ERR 1125 banjo bolt,fuel pipe to FIP
ERR 894 copper washer for above x2

ESR 2102 air filter,300Tdi
ESR 2731 pipe,air filter to turbo
ERR 4926 pipe,cyclone filter to intake pipe

ESR 3028 pipe,air intake to dump valve }
ESR 3162 dump valve and fixing bracket } not needed

if you fit a snorkel straight to the filter
ESR 3032 pipe,dump valve to air cleaner }

ESR 2297 Exhaust front dowm pipe w/o catylist
ESR 2739 " " " " w/ catylist (about x10 price as above!!!!!)

ESR 63 cooling system expansion tank
NTC 7161 cap,expansion tank, 15psi
ESR 2313 fixing bracket,above
ESR 2344 hose,radiator to 'ejector'
ESR 2345 hose,engine to 'ejector'
ESR 2348 pump 'ejector'
ESR 2343 hose,'ejector' to expansion tank

STC 8384 4 bolt PAS box (RHD)
STC 8383 4 bolt PAS box (LHD)
ANR 2485 Pipe, PAS, reservoir to pump, Tdi, RHD
ANR 3598 Pipe, PAS, steering box to reservoir, Tdi &

V8, RHD
ANR 2135 Pipe, PAS, pump to steering box, Tdi, RHD

ANR 2485 Pipe, PAS, reservoir to pump, Tdi, LHD
ANR 2914 Pipe, PAS, pump to steering box, LHD
ANR 2487 Pipe, PAS, steering box to reservoir, LHD

BTR 8396 heater inlet pipe,LHD
BTR 8395 heater return pipe,LHD
ERR 4531 pipe assebly,return

ERR 4632 NVH rocker cover insulation

NTC 9360 Throttle cable, RHD
NTC 9359 Throttle cable, LHD

AMR 2956 65a harness, Tdi, standard
AMR 2980 65a harness, Tdi, w/ A/C
AMR 3988 65a harness, Tdi, w/ EGR
AMR 3987 65a harness, Tdi, w/ EGR & A/C (early engines up to MA chassis number)

AMR 4019 65a harness, Tdi, standard
AMR 4847 65a harness, Tdi, w/ A/C
AMR 3988 65a harness, Tdi, w/ EGR
AMR 3987 65a harness, Tdi, w/ EGR & A/C (later engines MA chassis number onwards)

do you have an underbonnet fuse box with the big maxi-fuses? you'll need to shorten the cable onto the starter motor, or use fuse box

AMR 2983
PRC 6913 timer,glowplug 12v. the socket and rest of wiring for this is in the 300Tdi main vehicle harness (AMR 3483 + AMR 3484 f**king expensive!!) but you don't really need the glowplugs unless you live in
Alaska! the unit only needs +12v from the battery, a 12V ignition feed, a couple of wires for the warning light on the dash and the output to the glowplugs though, easy to wire up!

NTC 7503 (might be 502951 though!) and not forgetting the label that read's 'DIESEL FUEL' to fit into the tank filler!!!
BTR 516LVA And also not forgetting the side decals that read 'Tdi'

Manual or Auto tranny?
The R380 manual 5 speed gearbox, STC 1546N. you can use your existing transfer box,as it'll fit straight on to the R380.

The ZF 4HP22 4 speed auto,ZF# 1043 010 744,FTC 6099

End quote

Some people will say why change my transmission it works great. Yes it does but not in the diesel application. You are going to go to the expense of putting a new engine into a vehicle and leave a transmission with over 100,000 miles in it or close.Bite the bullet and go with the proper freshly rebuilt one.

Stephen Cahill
OBW Canada LTD.
www.obwcanada.com

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When your statements are true.
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  #278  
Old February 27th, 2006, 01:14 PM
Roverowner's Avatar
Roverowner
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Brian Love
95/Disco
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Germany
Posts: 109
I will have to say I love diesels all around. We have consistantly run our Up-Armored HMMWV (UAHs) at 240+, BRAND NEW (I had ~50 mi on the odo), with A/C running and they have not quit yet. If that is not a ringing endorsement.....
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  #279  
Old February 27th, 2006, 01:55 PM
chrisvonc's Avatar
chrisvonc
Status: Offline
Chris von C
No Defender at this time
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Va
Posts: 4,135
Stephen, Awesome post but I cleaned up that post a bit. The HTML spacing was spreading that posting all over, so I tightened it down a bit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OBW_Canada
Well with over 10,000 viewings on this thread I thought this list should be seen.

This list was put together by none other that the Famous parts numbers guy of the D-90 mailing list Jamie.
This list does away with kits and uses OEM parts from Land Rover. Read on and enjoy. Just to let you know I have request in for UK pricing on the parts. Contact me directly for pricing if wanted in a few days.

Now some parts on the list can be modified with North American parts,intercoolers,radiators and oil coolers. That would be for the extreme use of the engine in a North American vehicle.

Begin Quote

Hi all, I spent some time looking through my parts book, I've gone from the front of the engine (radiator/intercooler) backwards towards the back of the vehicle(clutch/gearbox/exhaust). here's what i reckon you'll need (plus or minus bits, depending on what you buy with the engine!)

ESR 2727 Radiator/intercooler assy
ESR 3683 Same as above, but from chassis # TA976036

onwards, don't know the difference! However....if you decide to fit an oversized intercooler (ie Allard or
Fearn type thing) then you can fit the older 2.5 TurboD radiator, which has the internal oil cooler that the Tdi needs, and the oil cooler pipes are in the same place as the Tdi, you just have to make up some water
pipes as they are in a different place. this radiator is about 1/2 bigger than the Tdi,as it's full width and deeper! it's what i've got on my project90 and a few of my friends have done the same.)

ERR 2266 viscous unit for above
ERR 2789 cooling fan
ESR 2055,
ESR 2309 Fan cowl,300Tdi
ESR 2309 upper intercooler hose to engine,300Tdi
ESR 2729, lower intercooler hoses to engine,300Tdi (3 pieces needed)
ESR 2730,
ESR 3684 Radiator,2.5turbo D
ESR 1912 Oil cooler pipe, Feed
ESR 1913 Oil cooler pipe, Return

ANR 3200, Rubber gearbox mount,RH
ANR 3201, Rubber gearbox mount,LH
ANR 3713 Detachable gearbox crossmember

ANR 2868, Engine mount,chassis,RH
NTC 9415, engine mount,chassis,LH
NTC 9416 mounting rubber,engine, x2

FTC 1994 clutch plate,HD,D130
FTC 2149 clutch plate,standard,D90/D110
FTC 575 clutch cover
ERR 719 flywheel assembly
ERR 4723 housing,flywheel (bolts onto the back if the engine, in case yours doesn;t come with it)
FTC 2957 lever,clutch release,
FRC 9568 thrust bearing (throw out bearing to you!)
FTC 3911 Slave cylinder,clutch
FRC 2402 Backing plate/gasket for above
STC 2818 repair kit for slave cylinder

clutch master cylinder is the same for V8 and Tdi engines, as is the metal pipe that comes out of the cylinder down towards the bellhousing.

NTC 9055 Clutch hose, rubber (connects onto the slave cylinder)
NRC 9595 pipe assembly,slave cylinder
ANR 2784 Vacuum hose,Tdi,LHD (brake servo to engine vacuum pump)

NTC 1518 Fuel filter + mounting bracket,300Tdi
ESR 3118 fuel pipes,filter to engine
NTC 3346 banjo bolt,fuel pipe to filter x2
ESR 354 copper washer for above x4
ERR 1125 banjo bolt,fuel pipe to FIP
ERR 894 copper washer for above x2

ESR 2102 air filter,300Tdi
ESR 2731 pipe,air filter to turbo
ERR 4926 pipe,cyclone filter to intake pipe

ESR 3028 pipe,air intake to dump valve }
ESR 3162 dump valve and fixing bracket } not needed

if you fit a snorkel straight to the filter
ESR 3032 pipe,dump valve to air cleaner }

ESR 2297 Exhaust front dowm pipe w/o catylist
ESR 2739 " " " " w/ catylist (about x10 price as above!!!!!)

ESR 63 cooling system expansion tank
NTC 7161 cap,expansion tank, 15psi
ESR 2313 fixing bracket,above
ESR 2344 hose,radiator to 'ejector'
ESR 2345 hose,engine to 'ejector'
ESR 2348 pump 'ejector'
ESR 2343 hose,'ejector' to expansion tank

STC 8384 4 bolt PAS box (RHD)
STC 8383 4 bolt PAS box (LHD)
ANR 2485 Pipe, PAS, reservoir to pump, Tdi, RHD
ANR 3598 Pipe, PAS, steering box to reservoir, Tdi &

V8, RHD
ANR 2135 Pipe, PAS, pump to steering box, Tdi, RHD

ANR 2485 Pipe, PAS, reservoir to pump, Tdi, LHD
ANR 2914 Pipe, PAS, pump to steering box, LHD
ANR 2487 Pipe, PAS, steering box to reservoir, LHD

BTR 8396 heater inlet pipe,LHD
BTR 8395 heater return pipe,LHD
ERR 4531 pipe assebly,return

ERR 4632 NVH rocker cover insulation

NTC 9360 Throttle cable, RHD
NTC 9359 Throttle cable, LHD

AMR 2956 65a harness, Tdi, standard
AMR 2980 65a harness, Tdi, w/ A/C
AMR 3988 65a harness, Tdi, w/ EGR
AMR 3987 65a harness, Tdi, w/ EGR & A/C (early engines up to MA chassis number)

AMR 4019 65a harness, Tdi, standard
AMR 4847 65a harness, Tdi, w/ A/C
AMR 3988 65a harness, Tdi, w/ EGR
AMR 3987 65a harness, Tdi, w/ EGR & A/C (later engines MA chassis number onwards)

do you have an underbonnet fuse box with the big maxi-fuses? you'll need to shorten the cable onto the starter motor, or use fuse box

AMR 2983
PRC 6913 timer,glowplug 12v. the socket and rest of wiring for this is in the 300Tdi main vehicle harness (AMR 3483 + AMR 3484 f**king expensive!!) but you don't really need the glowplugs unless you live in
Alaska! the unit only needs +12v from the battery, a 12V ignition feed, a couple of wires for the warning light on the dash and the output to the glowplugs though, easy to wire up!

NTC 7503 (might be 502951 though!) and not forgetting the label that read's 'DIESEL FUEL' to fit into the tank filler!!!
BTR 516LVA And also not forgetting the side decals that read 'Tdi'

Manual or Auto tranny?
The R380 manual 5 speed gearbox, STC 1546N. you can use your existing transfer box,as it'll fit straight on to the R380.

The ZF 4HP22 4 speed auto,ZF# 1043 010 744,FTC 6099

End quote

Some people will say why change my transmission it works great. Yes it does but not in the diesel application. You are going to go to the expense of putting a new engine into a vehicle and leave a transmission with over 100,000 miles in it or close.Bite the bullet and go with the proper freshly rebuilt one.

Stephen Cahill
OBW Canada LTD.
www.obwcanada.com

Fear not the wrath of the keyboard
When your statements are true.
__________________
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Please email one of the current MODs if you need assistance.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lriwater: As you know, most wives don't like Series trucks due to the ride and lack of creature comforts. Girlfriends seem to like those, but some sort of magic happens during the wedding ceremony.
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  #280  
Old February 27th, 2006, 07:37 PM
OBW_Canada
Status: Offline
Stephen Cahill
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Dartmouth Nova Scotia Canada
Posts: 28
Making it easier to install the 2.8 TGV MORE INFO

Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisvonc
Stephen, Awesome post but I cleaned up that post a bit. The HTML spacing was spreading that posting all over, so I tightened it down a bit.
Thanks Chris
Was late when I did the cut and paste.

Well Ladies and Gentlemen
I hope these pictures go up!!!!!!!
I am showing you the first time an NV4500 has been put behind the 2.8 TGV. Now there you go a North American transmission behind the 2.8 TGV. Easy cure to the headaches of this won't fit or I need this from England. I do not want to start a debate over which transmission is stronger the 4500 or the R380.
But wait the 4500 does not mate with the LT230. Well if they can make the adapter in South Africa should be able to make it in North America. Or did we shut down all our machine shops and farm the work out to Asia? OOPS Better not start an intercontinental trade war.

To be honest this is made for the Jeep,Scout,Land Cruiser,Bronco II ETC crowd.But it would be nice in a Rover!!!!!

Stephen Cahill
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