intermittent no start - 3.9L (95 RRC) - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old July 31st, 2014, 07:40 AM
corrumpu
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chris b
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intermittent no start - 3.9L (95 RRC)

Over the past few months I have been working to get the gremlins out of my daily driver 1995 RRC SWB

I had a wet/morning start issue/ driving in wet weather stalling issue that was eventually resolved with a new distributor assembly from atlantic british. Prior to this I replaced my coil (lucas coil). These changes seemed to make the starting issue disappear... as they were gone for 2 months or more.

Recently I have experienced a starting issue. I haven't nailed down exactly how it gets into this configuration but alot of short trips/starting stopping seems to help. Usually is in the afternoon ( I live in florida so it's mid to upper 90s) It will crank for days but never starts. Let it sit for x amount of minutes and it will restart and drive quite happily. The next day it won't do it at all. This is my daily driver (only choice) so I'm driving it. So far it's happened 4 times within 7 days. Sometimes it takes 3 hours to restart.
  • Fuel pressure is within range on the rail.
  • Spark tester shows ONE good spark at the start of process, but goes to a weak spark (low light blinking on the tester) This was seen at the coil. It's like the ground is not strong enough.
  • New distributor assembly from AB within 2-3 months.
  • New lucas coil

I have read alot of threads about the Ignition Amplifier Module, the relocation thereof and the use of a GM IAM. Do you think this is a logical place to investigate? Are there cross reference parts available? I can't find a write up on changing to the GM IAM or how to relocate w/o the kit from AB. The current module is new, as it came with the distributor assembly.

I am strictly an internet/google/forum mechanic. I have limited debugging skills in this arena, but I dearly love my rrc and I'd like to keep her as my dd.

--chris
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  #2  
Old July 31st, 2014, 07:52 AM
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Rocky
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Chris
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Interesting experience!
I'd get some new plug wires and coil to dizzy wire.
I've just been through a bad cold misfire and wet weather when hot and cold misfire. Just dropped in new dizzy to spark plug wires which after a day of driving has probably cured the problem. Though I hate to say cured on the basis of one days worth if driving.
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A friend of mine runs a land rover / range rover specialty repair shop. Based on his experience, they are capable of stopping anywhere, anytime, at any cost.

I don't know about the brakes, only their unreliability.
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  #3  
Old August 7th, 2014, 11:18 AM
corrumpu
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chris b
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OK so after more time and more instances.. it's related to heat of the afternoon/sitting engine.

I took a compressed air can, sprayed it upside down on the IAM... got some nice ice build up.. let it cool for a minute or so... the truck starts right up. I will be pulling the dizzy and relocating my IAM.

Not a hot topic and the IAM relocation is discussed often in searches (though that solihull thread everyone references for GM HEI IAM is a dead link) If anyone has that info stored away it should be reposted somewhere. Part number for the GM IAM? I am going to use my current one, as when it's cool it works great. Hopefully it's not damaged yet.
....
But I figured I should close out this thread for others searching.

--chris
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  #4  
Old August 7th, 2014, 12:31 PM
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Bill Adams
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Use the four tab GM module:
http://www.amazon.com/Ignition-10482.../dp/B00INEVXO2

You'll nee two 1/8" female spade connectors at the dizzy: http://www.britishwiring.com/1-8-Spa...nal-p/c201.htm
One 3/16 female spade terminal on the GM module: http://www.britishwiring.com/3-16-Fe...nal-p/c206.htm
Three 1/4" female spade terminals on the GM module: http://www.britishwiring.com/1-4-Fem...ire-p/c221.htm
Two male 1/4 spade terminals at the coil:http://www.britishwiring.com/1-4-Mal...Str-p/c235.htm

(Plastic and/or vinyl covers are available for these terminals to help insulate them.)

Some 22G wire; original colors are red and blue from diz to amplifier (W&G), and white to pos side of coil (B) and white black to neg side of coil (C). http://www.britishwiring.com/14-Stra...AWG-p/c114.htm This you can buy in 3' lengths for cheap.

Don't forget to ground the module case.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
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  #5  
Old August 7th, 2014, 12:52 PM
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Brett Fritzler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Use the four tab GM module:
http://www.amazon.com/Ignition-10482.../dp/B00INEVXO2

You'll nee two 1/8" female spade connectors at the dizzy: http://www.britishwiring.com/1-8-Spa...nal-p/c201.htm
One 3/16 female spade terminal on the GM module: http://www.britishwiring.com/3-16-Fe...nal-p/c206.htm
Three 1/4" female spade terminals on the GM module: http://www.britishwiring.com/1-4-Fem...ire-p/c221.htm
Two male 1/4 spade terminals at the coil:http://www.britishwiring.com/1-4-Mal...Str-p/c235.htm

(Plastic and/or vinyl covers are available for these terminals to help insulate them.)

Some 22G wire; original colors are red and blue from diz to amplifier (W&G), and white to pos side of coil (B) and white black to neg side of coil (C). http://www.britishwiring.com/14-Stra...AWG-p/c114.htm This you can buy in 3' lengths for cheap.

Don't forget to ground the module case.
Nice!! Do I have to use British parts or will any old spade connectors/terminals work?
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  #6  
Old August 7th, 2014, 01:44 PM
corrumpu
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chris b
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Awesome! thanks!

--chris
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  #7  
Old August 8th, 2014, 07:14 PM
GDE317
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Bill Green
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Chris,

No advice to share, but I am chasing the exact same problem with '91 RRC. My current theory is that there is some corrosion or issues with the grounds.
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  #8  
Old August 8th, 2014, 09:20 PM
corrumpu
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chris b
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On this diagram it's listed red blue from the dizzy.. what are these actually and how can I ring them out. I have the ptoline dizzy from rover north and no wire is visible.
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