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  #21  
Old August 30th, 2006, 09:51 AM
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Buckon37s
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Buck
Re-Fendered 90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sflash868
Regarding seats.. I am torn between reupholstering the seats since there are many many options for this or installing new seats all together. I like the idea of installing new ones that might be more supportive and comfy but I am worried if some brands will reduce the amount of room I have. I'm 6'4 and stuggle with leg and elbow room in the 90. Currently I have the risers that allow the seat to go back and extra inch and i just get buy with that. What are some of the popular brands that people install like? More room, less room, the same??
You wheel quite a bit right? For offroad there is really no better option than Mastercraft/PRP imo. I am 6'3 so you got me by an inch but I fit well in my Mastercrafts. You can mount them to the seat rails you have so they can go back as far as possible. I have PRP in the back. If I did it again I would go PRP in the front too. The two seats are literaly identical but the PRP is less money. Get the one with the lumbar support. They are extrememly comfortable but they are harder to get in and out of than a standard seat. Here is a pic:
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2009 King of the Hammers

BUCK Wild Racing
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Co-driver: Pat Quirk
Team 911

Rover Tracks
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  #22  
Old August 30th, 2006, 02:24 PM
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Stephan Laputka
1995 D-90 SW
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How does it work as far as getting to the battery and ECU. Does the whole seat pull of easy?
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  #23  
Old August 30th, 2006, 05:42 PM
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Buckon37s
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Buck
Re-Fendered 90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sflash868
How does it work as far as getting to the battery and ECU. Does the whole seat pull of easy?
They make a seat with an optional removeable bottom cushion for easy access. I just went with the standard seat and mounted it with quick disconnects. The seats are very light so I just pull it out when I need access to the battery box (which is everytime I drive it because of some strange battery drain! )

edit: They make any color combination in fabric or vinyl.
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Co-driver: Pat Quirk
Team 911

Rover Tracks
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  #24  
Old September 19th, 2006, 12:56 AM
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Chris Snell
87 Ex-MOD 110
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My current mods are being done to add insulation, cut down drafts, and increase warmth in the winter. I don't really mind a warmer cab in the summer; I usually have the top off anyway. Here's what I've done (or am doing):

1) Repaired the original (early 1994) soft top. My roommate is good with a sewing machine, so he found some new clear vinyl for the windows at an upholstery shop and some zippers from Wal-Mart. He ripped out the old windows and used them as a template to cut the new ones. He cut the new windows just slightly larger. Amazingly, this has fixed the shrunken-top problem where the snaps no longer reach their mates; the top now fits like a glove and doesn't rattle and installs easily. He cut the old zippers out and replaced them with new ones. The PO had installed some really crappy zippers in some spots and some of the ones he installed were upside down. New zippers all around and they close correctly. He replaced the cracked and broken alpine windows that caused snow drifts to form in the rear.

2) Added some rubber stripping around the top and rear edges of the door tops. Cold air and snow no longer pour in around the windows and the ride is a little quieter.

3) I'm currently investigating ways to add insulation between the door panels and the door metal. I've bought some "Great Stuff" foam and I'm thinking about spraying a little into a trash bag that's taped up inside the door. Maybe there's something better? Some kind of matting that I can just lay inside the door?

I need advice for repairing a 3/4" hole that I drilled in the seat tub. When I was a new (dumb) rover owner, I drilled a hole here in order to run my CB wiring through, only to quickly discover that it was entirely unnecessary. Now I have a hole the size of a quarter to somehow cover up. I swear, I can see the future ECR write-up: "For some reason, the idiots that worked on this truck decided to drill a large hole in the seat tub. Why? We have no idea!"

I also need to figure out how to stop snow from leaking in near the front corners of my soft top, right above the windscreen. Last winter, I stuffed rags in these holes. :/

I'll try to post some pictures.

Chris
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  #25  
Old October 20th, 2006, 03:26 PM
trislerjw
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JT
97 D-90 ST
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Join Date: Oct 2006
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herculiner mess

Quote:
Originally Posted by ECR
If you bed-line the inside of the entire inside of the rig make sure you do it in sections so that you can still remove the floors and such for service items. Otherwise a simple shifter repair might mean you have to remove the entire gearbox through the bottom. I've seen a number fd 90s that were completely lined inside and the owners f*cked themselves on future repairs by doing it that way.
The previous owner did just that, hopefully I can chip the stuff off the hardware... anyone know where I can buy new hardware, if/when i get the stuff off all of the bolts....should i just go to lowes and find more bolts etc, or are there any kits i can buy to use (stainless?) ? thanks
and Mike How can I order some of the LED tail and front signal lights from you guys? and how much?and did you ever figure out the 4.6 chip upgrade problem? I'm waiting to upgrade if not..

-J
trislerjw@yahoo.com
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  #26  
Old October 20th, 2006, 04:06 PM
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ECR
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East Coast Rover Co.
Just Defenders, nothing else.
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I think there is a stainless hardware group buy going on here somewhere. That would be a nice way to solve your hardware issue once you dig out all the bed liner.

LED lights are in stock and I am putting the connectors on them (a DIY will also be available). Mind numbingly boring work, but I gotta do it. I'm waiting for the customs invoice to come in so I can price the units. I expected it today, but it didn't come. I hope to have kits priced and ready to ship by mid week next week at the latest.

Funny you mention chips. I just hung up with Mark Adams about the check engine light. He is making SLOW progress. No final word yet. For now ee can only offer upgraded chips with no working check engine light.
Honestly... I am not sure it will ever be done exactly the way I wanted it.
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  #27  
Old October 20th, 2006, 07:14 PM
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Trevor Tarr
1997 D-90 4.6 NAS ST
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Mike, question about the chips you currently have available, which take advantage of the 4.6 increased displacement, BUT don't support the CEL. Is it just the light itself that won't go on, or all the OBDII diagnostics? Will the computer do everything except throw codes? I have a laptop constantly connected to my diagnostic port, running http://www.obd-2.com/ software. Would that help at all?
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  #28  
Old October 20th, 2006, 09:10 PM
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sflash868
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Stephan Laputka
1995 D-90 SW
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For that hole you drilled.. go to home depot and pick u some JB quick metal. The stuff is amazing. I used it to fix a hole in the crank case on my dirtbike. It doesn't leak oil or anything despite trail riding in the hot summer. It will work well..
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  #29  
Old October 21st, 2006, 12:45 PM
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Paul / Boultbee
1994 D-90, Green #1576
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Buck - can you flip to the thread on small projects - i want to start one on your 2 thick coats of Hurculiner addition. The pix looks great and I want to know how to do it. The way the screws pop out as uncoated is nice. Did you go stainless inside as well?
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  #30  
Old October 21st, 2006, 01:41 PM
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Marc
'95 D90 SW#106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckon37s
You wheel quite a bit right? For offroad there is really no better option than Mastercraft/PRP imo. I am 6'3 so you got me by an inch but I fit well in my Mastercrafts. You can mount them to the seat rails you have so they can go back as far as possible. I have PRP in the back. If I did it again I would go PRP in the front too. The two seats are literaly identical but the PRP is less money. Get the one with the lumbar support. They are extrememly comfortable but they are harder to get in and out of than a standard seat. Here is a pic:
What racing harness mounting system do you use with the PRP's?
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  #31  
Old October 21st, 2006, 02:02 PM
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Buckon37s
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Buck
Re-Fendered 90
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Location: Temecula, CA, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thewap
What racing harness mounting system do you use with the PRP's?
What do you mean? The belts are sold by PRP and are very cheap if you want 5 points. You have to fab up mounts for the belts if you want the 5 points (very simple). I also think Rovertracks makes a system if you want one to bolt in. I use stock belts on the front. I found the 5 point way overkill for the type of wheeling I do. I need to look out and hop out of the seat often so the stock belts were the best solution. Sometimes I don't even wear the stock one (oh no! ).

In the rear I had the 5 points mounted and then took the tops off and only run the lap belts now for the same reason. When my little girl gets old enough to ride with me I will put the 5 point back in for sure!
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2009 King of the Hammers

BUCK Wild Racing
Driver: Me
Co-driver: Pat Quirk
Team 911

Rover Tracks
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Made it further than half of the other guys, but the Hammers won.
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  #32  
Old October 21st, 2006, 02:40 PM
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thewap
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Marc
'95 D90 SW#106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckon37s
They make a seat with an optional removeable bottom cushion for easy access. I just went with the standard seat and mounted it with quick disconnects. The seats are very light so I just pull it out when I need access to the battery box (which is everytime I drive it because of some strange battery drain! )

edit: They make any color combination in fabric or vinyl.
Ok thanks, will check rovertracks. BTW I looked at the PRP website's mounting adapters trying to figure out which is
appropriate. Did you replace the whole slider assembly? also wondering about the quick disconnect mount you mentioned,
as it's not on their site..
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  #33  
Old October 21st, 2006, 04:48 PM
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Buckon37s
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Buck
Re-Fendered 90
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Location: Temecula, CA, USA
Posts: 3,376
To my knowledge there there is no mounting hardware at all for the 90. I used the stock LR slider and welded two cross brackets to it and mounted the seats to that. Then I made disconnects for the LR slider. This way I could mount the seats wherever I wanted, they are wider than stock so it was tight fit with the Tuffy center console. It is pretty simple to do.
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2009 King of the Hammers

BUCK Wild Racing
Driver: Me
Co-driver: Pat Quirk
Team 911

Rover Tracks
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Made it further than half of the other guys, but the Hammers won.
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  #34  
Old October 21st, 2006, 06:22 PM
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thewap
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Marc
'95 D90 SW#106
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Ok, thanks David.
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  #35  
Old September 18th, 2007, 02:07 PM
scout159
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mark bohne
1995 D90
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Location: south elgin,IL Usa
Posts: 8
where can i find this PRP company?

What does PRP stand for?
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  #36  
Old September 18th, 2007, 02:20 PM
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Buckon37s
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Buck
Re-Fendered 90
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Posts: 3,376
Quote:
Originally Posted by scout159
What does PRP stand for?
Premier Racing Products

http://www.prpseats.com/home.html

They are just up the road from me.
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2009 King of the Hammers

BUCK Wild Racing
Driver: Me
Co-driver: Pat Quirk
Team 911

Rover Tracks
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