Interior Cab "Liner" - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 23rd, 2008, 08:58 PM
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Interior Cab "Liner"

I'm considering replacing the rubber/"plasticish" covering that covers the raised area where the seats are fastened (sorry best way I can describe!). Does anyone know where I might buy a replacement kit or have some part numbers for this material? I'm assuming I can get it in a template. Basically I should be able to remove the seats and cubby and be able to peel off the existing lining which is peeling, ripped, etc.

I've attached a photo of what Im looking for. The photo isn't of a specific bad area - just to make sure people know what the hell I'm trying to describe...

Thanks in advance,

Hutch

AA Yellow 1995 D90 ST
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  #2  
Old March 23rd, 2008, 09:52 PM
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Line-x it.
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  #3  
Old March 23rd, 2008, 10:56 PM
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Kevin Houseal
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seatbase trim

Exmoor Trim has it listed, but expensive because it's a whole front end kit.

http://www.exmoortrim.co.uk/erol.html#859X4780

RN has the specific piece you want, I need it too but just seem to drop the money elsewhere all the time.

http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-2...fender-90.aspx

Kevin
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  #4  
Old March 23rd, 2008, 11:00 PM
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I think it's called "hardura". There are some online sources for it.
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  #5  
Old March 24th, 2008, 10:18 AM
Eric Siepmann
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Rovers North had it. Not that bad about two years ago. I'd got the Line-X route if I were to do it again.

EwS
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  #6  
Old March 24th, 2008, 06:30 PM
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Keith Allen
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Line-x it. You will just end up replacing it again in the near future.
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  #7  
Old March 24th, 2008, 08:12 PM
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Thanks for everybody's input. The only reason I haven't - until now - thought about going the Line-X (or coated) route is that's I was trying to keep it "original". It was that way for the first 5 years I owned the truck but after rancho shocks, rovertym springs and bigger tires I guess I kinda blew it!

I'll find a local Line-X dealer and see what they can do and weigh it against putting in the original material. Looks like I'd need that piece that Kevin mentioned as well as the top portion if I go original. Unfortunately I'm not offroad as much as I'd like to anymore but still not 100% reason to put the original garbage back in I suppose...

Anyone have a ballpark estimate for the cost of Line-Xing that portion or the truck? Also, and pardon the probably lame question - how accurate can they get with the application? Do they just tape over what they don't want to spray? How about the rear of the truck? Can I have them do JUST the flat portion and vertical lower walls but not spray up the higher vertical walls in the back? I'm a bit of a type-A person when it comes to things like that...

Hutch
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  #8  
Old March 24th, 2008, 09:27 PM
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Scott
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Hutch,

I priced it out a few years back... It was going to be around $700.00. If I wanted to disassemble parts of it, he would do it for less.

They can be pretty percise... Just double check their references.

Scott
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  #9  
Old March 24th, 2008, 11:31 PM
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I had the entire interior of my truck line-x'd. Tub, footwell and seatbox...they took everything out...I think I paid around $750. Well worth it.
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  #10  
Old March 26th, 2008, 12:54 PM
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I just used the herculiner from AutoZone for the rear tub and I am in the process of doing the seat box and battery/storage boxes. I think it costs like $75 for a gallon. The time/expense is in removing the seats, brackets and little things like riveted clips. Then you have to tape everything off. Time consuming, but cheaper and works great.

I cut the Land Rover logo out of the old tub mat, glued it to the tub and rolled the hurculiner over it. Looks pretty sweet and somewhat factory as I just followed the lines of the original mat.
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  #11  
Old March 26th, 2008, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TND90
I just used the herculiner from AutoZone for the rear tub and I am in the process of doing the seat box and battery/storage boxes. I think it costs like $75 for a gallon. The time/expense is in removing the seats, brackets and little things like riveted clips. Then you have to tape everything off. Time consuming, but cheaper and works great.

I cut the Land Rover logo out of the old tub mat, glued it to the tub and rolled the hurculiner over it. Looks pretty sweet and somewhat factory as I just followed the lines of the original mat.
Keith, that's a sweet idea with ther LR logo. How many coats of Herculiner did you use or have to use? I've read that it doesn't hold up very long, that it flakes off.
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  #12  
Old March 26th, 2008, 01:36 PM
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Duplicolor Rattle-can Bedliner

If its a smallish area you can always buy the Duplicolor rattle can truck bed liner. I have used that on various exterior metal pieces (sliders, rear bumper, stainless steel snorkel) and, with proper prep, it has held up really well. I was most worried about the shiny stainless steel snorkel tube but it has held up really well even after numerous runs on some very tight trails where that thing was getting whacked by branches all day. No chips at all yet.

I would not hesitate with using that on an interior piece. Best part is that its so easy to repair/top-coat as needed if you ever have any chips or peeling (which I have not had yet).

AndrewT
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  #13  
Old March 28th, 2008, 07:10 PM
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I rolled on three thick coats. If you go with the LR logo, be sure to fill in the raised letters with something like caulk before you glue it to the tub. The herculiner has held up great for me. I think you need to be sure and prep the surface correctly for good results.

I will try to post a pic this weekend.
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  #14  
Old April 8th, 2008, 07:41 PM
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Hutch,

Here are the pics I promised you...
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  #15  
Old April 8th, 2008, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by themaxx
Hutch,

Here are the pics I promised you...
Thanks for the pics!

I actually went and saw a truck that was sprayed over the weekend and also visited a Line-X shop near my house today. (I should have better things to do with time... I know I know!) It's actually amazing how accurate they can be using that tape and stainless steel line to cut the linex straight. Crazy how much prepwork there is compared to how fast it's actually applied.

Questions...

1. Seat Base Removal:
I haven't searched *too* hard for this but does anyone have any firsthand experience removing the entire raised seat base / seat box area? The Line-X shop said if I want to just spray that (and not everything in the passenger footwells) it would be best to remove it. It seems like it wouldn't be too bad.

2. "Downward-facing" Roll Cage Bar
I see in your pics you removed the roll bar piece that runs behind the seats. Assuming that was pretty easy right?

3. Rhino versus Line-x
Risking asking a purely subjective question here... I was/am sold on Line-X but then I started reading about Rhino products and supposedly depending on the product line, Rhino lining is a bit softer. I don't plan on hauling anything in the back (hell what can you fit back there anyway?) and I'm not worried about scraping the seat base with anything other than my legs. Just wondering on a lightly used d90 that I should opt for a liner that is closer to the rubber mat and the hardura stuff in there already. I realize nothing will be as soft as the stock stuff but linex is pretty damn tough. Thoughts?

Hutch
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  #16  
Old April 8th, 2008, 11:31 PM
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Seat Base/Box Removal - Not sure, but can't be too hard. I think that's a great idea!

Roll Cage Bar - The guys at Line-x removed it, I can't imagine it being too tough since they hadn't ever touched a Defender before.

Rhino versus Line-x - IMO Line-x, Line-x, Line-x...My suggestion, go back and talk to both companies and asked them why their product is better than the other...I did a ton of searching on the net as well as talking to both. Not that I have the same concentrated solution, but have you see the bomb video on the Line-x site?

Not sure if I mentioned this to you already, they can mix the solution to be smoother or grittier and have many different colors to choose from, you just have to ask.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hutch
Thanks for the pics!

I actually went and saw a truck that was sprayed over the weekend and also visited a Line-X shop near my house today. (I should have better things to do with time... I know I know!) It's actually amazing how accurate they can be using that tape and stainless steel line to cut the linex straight. Crazy how much prepwork there is compared to how fast it's actually applied.

Questions...

1. Seat Base Removal:
I haven't searched *too* hard for this but does anyone have any firsthand experience removing the entire raised seat base / seat box area? The Line-X shop said if I want to just spray that (and not everything in the passenger footwells) it would be best to remove it. It seems like it wouldn't be too bad.

2. "Downward-facing" Roll Cage Bar
I see in your pics you removed the roll bar piece that runs behind the seats. Assuming that was pretty easy right?

3. Rhino versus Line-x
Risking asking a purely subjective question here... I was/am sold on Line-X but then I started reading about Rhino products and supposedly depending on the product line, Rhino lining is a bit softer. I don't plan on hauling anything in the back (hell what can you fit back there anyway?) and I'm not worried about scraping the seat base with anything other than my legs. Just wondering on a lightly used d90 that I should opt for a liner that is closer to the rubber mat and the hardura stuff in there already. I realize nothing will be as soft as the stock stuff but linex is pretty damn tough. Thoughts?

Hutch
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  #17  
Old April 9th, 2008, 12:22 AM
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Removing the seat box is easy, its just a bunch of fasteners. The most annoying part is taking out the center tunnel because you have to remove the gearshift gaiter and rubber seal etc. Its all EZ, just time consuming.

Ade - It looks like the Line-X guy coated everything in there - what if you want to remove some bolts from the rear tire carrier, or rear door, or need to remove some other fasteners that they guy sprayed? Won't you have to hack away at the liner? If you want/need to take out your seat box, you're screwed.
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  #18  
Old April 10th, 2008, 05:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC
Removing the seat box is easy, its just a bunch of fasteners. The most annoying part is taking out the center tunnel because you have to remove the gearshift gaiter and rubber seal etc. Its all EZ, just time consuming.

Ade - It looks like the Line-X guy coated everything in there - what if you want to remove some bolts from the rear tire carrier, or rear door, or need to remove some other fasteners that they guy sprayed? Won't you have to hack away at the liner? If you want/need to take out your seat box, you're screwed.
I spoke with them before they 'sprayed away' regarding that very issue. They told me, I can use an exacto knife and cut around the nuts and bolts as needed. I will eventually get to that and replaced everything with SS.
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  #19  
Old April 17th, 2008, 11:20 AM
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Pics

Here are the pics of the herculiner with the logo rolled in.

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...hmentid=&stc=1
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  #20  
Old April 21st, 2008, 07:12 PM
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I've just ordered the Wright Offroad mat kit for the front of my 110. I think it's the same kit that you can get at Exmoor Trim. The site for the manufacturer is http://www.wrightoffroad.com/ and I'm buying it from Rover Park Boys ( www.roverparkboys.com ) I think it was $525 + shipping. So yeah it's expensive but from every account I've heard it looks really good, is durable, and really cuts down on the noise.

My plan is to Rhino Line the second row of seats back. I did some research on the Rhino vs. Line-X last year and honestly don't remember why I thought Rhino Lining was better, sorry

If you thread a bolt into each of the bolt openings before you put down the liner in the rear, then all you need to do is thread the bolt out when you're done and you don't have to cut away at anything. That's what the guy in the Rhino Lining shop advised to me.

I've also been considering whether I should put b-quiet ( http://www.b-quiet.com/ultimate.html , like Dynamat but cheaper) underneath the Rhino Lining. It will add some cost, and about 1.6mm to the thickness (thereby theoretically slightly decreasing my load space) and a bit of weight, but I wonder if it will make a noticeable difference to the noise level and insulation in the winter. I've pretty much decided against that but if anyone has done that or thinks it's a particularly good (or bad) idea I'd be interested in your point of view.

I also plan on putting in a bunch of tie-downs in the load area before I Rhino Line it. I'm going to try to find some that you cut out a bit of the floor so that the tie downs don't stick up and snag stuff in the load area.

- Andrew.

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by TND90
Here are the pics of the herculiner with the logo rolled in.
That looks pretty sweet.
- Andrew.
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