Installing TDI Oil Pressure Gauge - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 21st, 2015, 01:19 PM
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Installing TDI Oil Pressure Gauge

This thread is under construction - taking pictures while doing the install...

There have been several threads where members asked about how to install TDI gauges.
There are 3 basic rules to follow:
1.) Wire correctly...
For all electrical gauges it is paramount to have a proper ground and a proper source for 12V (+).
DO NOT share or tap into an existing circuit.
If you do, the gauge will change readings based on the circuit load and strange things will happen like the gauge reading will drop when you turn on your windshield wipers for example.
Run a new brown wire from the starter solenoid to a 12V relay that is operated off the ignition circuit for the 12V (+) and run a new ground for the 12V (-).
This does not mean a new wire tapped off the ground for the spedo, it means a new ground attached directly to the bulkhead.

2.) Always solder the connections.
Crimp on connectors are a fire waiting to start.

3.) always use the correct parts:
Note the Land Rover OEM banjo, banjo bolt, oil pressure warning light, and new copper washers.
.
.
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  #2  
Old March 21st, 2015, 01:21 PM
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The first picture above shows the stock oil filter housing with the stock oil pressure warning light.

The second and third picture above shows the correct size banjo being re-threaded for the 1/8 NPT oil pressure sending unit that came with the new gauge.

The forth - sixth picture shows the entire assembly being installed.
Since the banjo bolt is designed for the oil pressure warning light, it has the correct threads and everything just bolts together.
The oil cooler lines were removed to gain easier access
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  #3  
Old March 21st, 2015, 01:28 PM
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That's a cool setup. Thanks for posting that.
Another option is going remote. I used this setup with my Tdi:
Remote Oil Pressure Gauge "T" Piece M10x1.0 VW/Audi/Seat/Skoda Etc (095/5) | eBay
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  #4  
Old May 4th, 2015, 10:54 AM
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Thanks for the replies. At this point I would be happy to have the old fashioned 1/8" plastic pipe but 10 mm is always a bit tricky to match. I may have to bend to whats available :-)
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  #5  
Old June 8th, 2015, 06:25 PM
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I've never done anything with a NPT fitting. Do I crank down on it till its "guten tight" and check for leaks later? Does the NPT need a washer (I'm guessing no due to the taper)?

I have a M10x1 adapter thats about 1" long, it screws into the stock location. OEM switch on the end like your picture and there is a 1/8 NPT that Ts into the adapter. for the M10 installation what am I looking for torque wise. I have fresh copper washers standing by.
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  #6  
Old May 15th, 2016, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackField View Post
I've never done anything with a NPT fitting. Do I crank down on it till its "guten tight" and check for leaks later? Does the NPT need a washer (I'm guessing no due to the taper)?

I have a M10x1 adapter thats about 1" long, it screws into the stock location. OEM switch on the end like your picture and there is a 1/8 NPT that Ts into the adapter. for the M10 installation what am I looking for torque wise. I have fresh copper washers standing by.
No washer needed.
NPT threads are tapered, but a little silicone sealer will make sure there are not any leaks.
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  #7  
Old May 15th, 2016, 01:41 PM
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Thanks Robert. No leaks, guage works well. I don't like how close everything is to the filter with the T I used but it all works well enough.
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  #8  
Old June 30th, 2016, 11:45 AM
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Robert, I'd like to build one of these for my Vee-Eight truck.
Some more descriptions please...
What is the # for that LR banjo bolt?
What other plumbing is needed?
It appears you're teeing off the original hole in the oil cooler plate and still using the factoring sender.




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  #9  
Old June 30th, 2016, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
Robert, I'd like to build one of these for my Vee-Eight truck.
Some more descriptions please...
What is the # for that LR banjo bolt?
What other plumbing is needed?
It appears you're teeing off the original hole in the oil cooler plate and still using the factoring sender.
I bought all that stuff from Rovers North years ago.
The Banjo fitting was from a Series III oil pressure gauge.
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  #10  
Old June 30th, 2016, 04:00 PM
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10-4

0-80 pressure gauge?

What are your thoughts on mech v electrical?
I'm putting a temp guage in as well.



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  #11  
Old June 30th, 2016, 04:14 PM
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Electrical for sure. You don't want an oil line running to your dash and into the back of the gauge.
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  #12  
Old June 30th, 2016, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broncoduecer View Post
That's a cool setup. Thanks for posting that.
Another option is going remote. I used this setup with my Tdi:
Remote Oil Pressure Gauge "T" Piece M10x1.0 VW/Audi/Seat/Skoda Etc (095/5) | eBay
Your link above comes up dead for me.

Mike
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  #13  
Old June 30th, 2016, 04:26 PM
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Yeah that was over a year ago. ebay.co.uk search for remote oil pressure m10 brings up a ton.
LMA Race/Rally Oil Pressure Remote T Piece Kit - M10 x 1 - 0.5 Metre Pipe Length | eBay
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  #14  
Old June 30th, 2016, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broncoduecer View Post
Yeah that was over a year ago. ebay.co.uk search for remote oil pressure m10 brings up a ton.
LMA Race/Rally Oil Pressure Remote T Piece Kit - M10 x 1 - 0.5 Metre Pipe Length | eBay
Nice solution. Has anyone found a U.S. source? The total with shipping makes it a little pricey.

Mike
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  #15  
Old June 30th, 2016, 05:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javelinadave View Post
Electrical for sure. You don't want an oil line running to your dash and into the back of the gauge.
Well, that's what I was wondering , Dave.
Is the oil actually connected to the guage?
My ol' Sunpro temp guage is mechanical but its not connected to the coolant.
Are VDO Vision Blacks ok? I like them.


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  #16  
Old June 30th, 2016, 06:06 PM
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I used an 1/8 electric sender and the m10 idiot switch with this remote setup. The oil does travel through the ss braided line to the tee block.
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  #17  
Old October 14th, 2016, 12:03 PM
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My current set up has a VDO sender for pressure and a stock temp sender. Both were in a brass T into the oil filter housing.

I broke the T, of course. When I went to install the replacement T I found out it was ground down and modified to work with the housing. Is there a VDO sender that will do both pressure and temp? If so does anyone know the part number? I am trying to avoid the brass T for two senders.

I have another oil pressure sender plugged into my oil pan under the motor. Can I wire that one to the dash light?

Alex
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  #18  
Old October 14th, 2016, 12:21 PM
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I might be confused, but 300TDI have no "stock" oil temperature sender. Perhaps you are thinking of the low oil pressure warning switch?

An oil temperature sender can't be located in the pressure sender location. It needs to be located where there is a flow of oil. On a 300TDI, this is a bit of a PITA as LR removed the oil temperature sender port from the oil filter housing. 200TDI and earlier had a place for the sender.
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  #19  
Old October 14th, 2016, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
I might be confused, but 300TDI have no "stock" oil temperature sender. Perhaps you are thinking of the low oil pressure warning switch? An oil temperature sender can't be located in the pressure sender location. It needs to be located where there is a flow of oil. On a 300TDI, this is a bit of a PITA as LR removed the oil temperature sender port from the oil filter housing. 200TDI and earlier had a place for the sender.
Yes- low oil pressure warning switch.

Here are the two senders I have into the T on the oil filter housing.

I have another sender with a round end on it into the oil pan.

Three wires run from my gauge- grey and blue to the oil filter housing senders, yellow to the oil pan
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  #20  
Old October 14th, 2016, 12:39 PM
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Land Rover Defender Discovery 300TDI 200TDI TD5 Oil Pressure Gauge Adaptor Bar | eBay

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