Installing SW Doors on a ST D90 - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old February 13th, 2013, 10:03 AM
Holiday's Avatar
Holiday
Status: Offline
Ross Simpson
1995 D90 ST/2006 D3 HSE7
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Hamilton, VA
Posts: 456
Registry
Installing SW Doors on a ST D90

Anyone have experience with this?

I've just installed NTO SW doors on my 95' ST, along with the associated SW striker plate, spacers, etc. The doors aligns great, but when closed- they don't fit snugly against the door frame. I've mounted the striker plate in a variety of positions, to include full inward, and there still remains ~1 inch of play between the door and the frame.
It's almost as though the OEM door frame holes don't allow enough lateral adjustment.

Any ideas?
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old February 13th, 2013, 10:07 AM
rijosho's Avatar
rijosho
Status: Offline
Joshua
1995 Black ST - Rhinolined edition
Research Assistant/Eagle Eyes
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: NYC
Posts: 16,557
Registry
which door frames? There's space at the top of the door, on the sides near the striker or what? Include pics...

If you searched "ST to SW doors" you'll see this thread

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=11092

which confirms not only needing new strikers, but also utilizing the OTHER striker holes...

Quote:
Originally Posted by dave_lucas View Post
You need new door strikers but your NAS 90 should already have the holes. If you look at the door jamb you will see 3 holes in a triangle shape.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC View Post
Confirming - new strikers required. Holes already present in the NAS tub. Dont forget to get the backing plate.
__________________
Quote:
I am talking purely from an aesthetics standpoint.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old February 13th, 2013, 10:51 AM
Holiday's Avatar
Holiday
Status: Offline
Ross Simpson
1995 D90 ST/2006 D3 HSE7
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Hamilton, VA
Posts: 456
Registry
Ahh...the door frame that has the striker plate mounted to it; thought that was clear, sorry. Pictures should help; I'll snap a few this afternoon.

I've searched, and I've used the "OTHER" striker holes for the strikers.

Thx!

Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
which door frames? There's space at the top of the door, on the sides near the striker or what? Include pics...

If you searched "ST to SW doors" you'll see this thread

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=11092

which confirms not only needing new strikers, but also utilizing the OTHER striker holes...
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #4  
Old February 13th, 2013, 12:25 PM
Wolf Fabrication's Avatar
Wolf Fabrication
Status: Offline
Sterling Archer
'08 D3
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Oahu, HI
Posts: 7,453
Registry
What? You didn't like my Dukes of Hazzard rope trick to keeping both doors closed?
__________________
"The most unreliable car in the world is the most reliable car in the world." -Jeremy Clarkson refering to the Range Rover


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Semper Fi!
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old February 13th, 2013, 12:58 PM
Holiday's Avatar
Holiday
Status: Offline
Ross Simpson
1995 D90 ST/2006 D3 HSE7
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Hamilton, VA
Posts: 456
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication View Post
What? You didn't like my Dukes of Hazzard rope trick to keeping both doors closed?
Bo Duke himself would have a hard time looking cool climbing in the back of a D-90.

I plan on bringing your stuff to the HH; you've got to be missing that floor mat.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old February 13th, 2013, 12:59 PM
HeloBubba's Avatar
HeloBubba
Status: Online
Chris Murphy
'89 127 (D130), '16 LR4
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Fleming Island, FL
Posts: 774
I had good success doing this on my 94ST. One of the best changes I made to my ST. As is, the SW doors seal better than the stock two-piece doors, but they work and seal against leaks tons better utilizing a door frame/gutter kit, but that'll require a GK-style top or modifying your stock top.

Additionally, usually "full inward" adjustment on the striker plate isn't ideal and doesn't bring the trailing edge of the door any closer. The door latch 'rocker' allows for some radial movement around the striker plate bar. To catch the door in the closed position properly requires adjustment of the striker plate in a mid position. I screwed around with this on my 97, and when the striker plate is set full inward, it required slamming the door really hard and then sometimes the driver's side would pop out about an inch and remain there when on the highway.

Also, did you use the plastic hinge shims behind the hinges? These allow for door alignment/flushness, and if not used, the door may be under tension and squeezing the front edge seal, and then wanting to pop out on the training edge.

Clear as mud?

Murph
__________________
Chris Murphy
'89 D130SW
'86 D110 3-door
'89 D110SW
'16 LR4

Former:
'97 D90SW - SOLD SEP '14
'94 D90ST - SOLD MAY '13
D90s sold while assigned overseas. You're welcome America!
'06 Range Rover Sport Supercharged
'8X FankenRover D100
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old February 13th, 2013, 01:03 PM
rijosho's Avatar
rijosho
Status: Offline
Joshua
1995 Black ST - Rhinolined edition
Research Assistant/Eagle Eyes
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: NYC
Posts: 16,557
Registry
Without the pics I'm still not sure I'm thinking of the right gap you're experiencing, but if you haven't looked into it already, I'd suggest you look at the hinge shims for further adjustment. The door sits flush with the body when looking forward at it from the tub?
__________________
Quote:
I am talking purely from an aesthetics standpoint.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old February 13th, 2013, 01:20 PM
Holiday's Avatar
Holiday
Status: Offline
Ross Simpson
1995 D90 ST/2006 D3 HSE7
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Hamilton, VA
Posts: 456
Registry
Pictures...
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	photo-9.jpg
Views:	99
Size:	60.6 KB
ID:	66189   Click image for larger version

Name:	photo-10.jpg
Views:	95
Size:	47.2 KB
ID:	66190  

Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old February 13th, 2013, 01:28 PM
Holiday's Avatar
Holiday
Status: Offline
Ross Simpson
1995 D90 ST/2006 D3 HSE7
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Hamilton, VA
Posts: 456
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeloBubba View Post
I had good success doing this on my 94ST. One of the best changes I made to my ST. As is, the SW doors seal better than the stock two-piece doors, but they work and seal against leaks tons better utilizing a door frame/gutter kit, but that'll require a GK-style top or modifying your stock top.

Additionally, usually "full inward" adjustment on the striker plate isn't ideal and doesn't bring the trailing edge of the door any closer. The door latch 'rocker' allows for some radial movement around the striker plate bar. To catch the door in the closed position properly requires adjustment of the striker plate in a mid position. I screwed around with this on my 97, and when the striker plate is set full inward, it required slamming the door really hard and then sometimes the driver's side would pop out about an inch and remain there when on the highway.

Also, did you use the plastic hinge shims behind the hinges? These allow for door alignment/flushness, and if not used, the door may be under tension and squeezing the front edge seal, and then wanting to pop out on the training edge.

Clear as mud?

Murph

I hear ya, Murph; good info- thanks! I'll play with the striker position some more.

------ Follow up post added February 13th, 2013 10:31 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
Without the pics I'm still not sure I'm thinking of the right gap you're experiencing, but if you haven't looked into it already, I'd suggest you look at the hinge shims for further adjustment. The door sits flush with the body when looking forward at it from the tub?
Hinge shims are good. The issue is somehow related to the striker area.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old February 19th, 2013, 10:13 PM
Holiday's Avatar
Holiday
Status: Offline
Ross Simpson
1995 D90 ST/2006 D3 HSE7
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Hamilton, VA
Posts: 456
Registry
Bueller?.......Anyone........Anyone?
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old February 19th, 2013, 10:20 PM
Arcadeus's Avatar
Arcadeus
Status: Offline
Mark Bichin
97 NAS Station Wagon LE
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 1,209
Registry
I had a similar problem on my sw...it is possible that the latch is actually too far in and the door is sitting in the first latch position... It may actually need to be moved closer to the outside of the frame so it can enter the second latch position..
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old February 19th, 2013, 10:41 PM
Holiday's Avatar
Holiday
Status: Offline
Ross Simpson
1995 D90 ST/2006 D3 HSE7
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Hamilton, VA
Posts: 456
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arcadeus View Post
I had a similar problem on my sw...it is possible that the latch is actually too far in and the door is sitting in the first latch position... It may actually need to be moved closer to the outside of the frame so it can enter the second latch position..
There's only a 1/4" radius of play (at most) in the striker due to the size of the factory hole. I've tried placing the striker closer to the door, but end up with only a slightly better result. It's almost as though the door frame hole needs to be widened slightly to allow for the needed movement.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old February 20th, 2013, 11:49 AM
tgraham's Avatar
tgraham
Status: Offline
Travis Graham
1994 Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 77
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holiday View Post
It's almost as though the door frame hole needs to be widened slightly to allow for the needed movement.
That's what I had to do in order to get things aligned properly. I ground-out some additional space towards the inside of the truck so that the striker plate bolts (and thus the whole striker assembly) could move further inward, allowing the door to close more snugly. The enlarged hole is still completely covered by the striker bracket, so you cannot see any evidence of the modification.

I guess the tolerances just weren't too precise when they built my Defender

Also, you may want to consider trying thicker door seals. I've never had luck with the factory SW door seals (I'm using a fiberglass top) - there were gaps at the top that let the rain in and I had a fairly brisk breeze at speed along the striker area of the door.

I ended up using these:
http://amzn.to/VvY5ly

They obviously don't have the fitted edges, but they installed fine (use some silicone spray until they form to the doors a little). They're thicker than the factory seals, so they fill those gaps! Most importantly: I can now drive in the rain and not get soaked!

Good luck!

Travis
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old February 20th, 2013, 12:55 PM
JohnsD90's Avatar
JohnsD90
Status: Offline
John
74 SIII 88", 88 110, 91 110
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: CT
Posts: 2,282
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
Without the pics I'm still not sure I'm thinking of the right gap you're experiencing, but if you haven't looked into it already, I'd suggest you look at the hinge shims for further adjustment. The door sits flush with the body when looking forward at it from the tub?
Did you ever put those doors on yours?
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Tags
90, d90, door

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New Style SW Doors bjp Defender Technical Discussions 39 December 26th, 2009 03:04 PM
Switch from ST doors to SW doors TAIIISI Defender Technical Discussions 5 August 29th, 2005 12:27 PM
94' D90 ST, 55k miles LOWERED to 21.7k or BEST OFFER in CT. PIX link januconn92 For Sale - Vehicles 1 March 15th, 2004 09:46 PM
Diagnostic Plug on 95 D90 SW? Troys Defender Technical Discussions 5 March 13th, 2004 03:49 PM
which is worth more ST or SW ron Defender Technical Discussions 3 March 2nd, 2004 09:12 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:35 AM.


Copyright