Installing Hinges - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old May 6th, 2013, 09:38 AM
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Andrew Najarian
'93 NAS D110 #43
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Installing Hinges

Hello All!

So I wasn't happy with the job the body shop had done installing the hinges on my 110, so I took it upon myself to correct (nothing is ever done right unless you do it yourself).

I completely stripped the Hinges, Bathed them in Evapo-Rust, Bathed them in Prep & Ready, Painted them with POR15 and then Painted them with Color & Clear. They are ready to reinstall with Stainless Hardware, but before I do I wanted to ask.

I know you want to tighten the nuts from inside and not turn the screw heads in the hinges to prevent damaging the paint and causing them to rust again; however, I seem to recall a thread from years ago in which (I believe it was Mike from ECR) suggested putting something on the screw heads prior to install to prevent them marring the paint, particularly on the bulkhead ones where you have no choice but to turn the screw head to tighten.

What is the best method for installing? Should I put something on the Screw Heads or not? What should I use? Thanks guys!

By the way, I took this opportunity to also pull the doors apart, replace all the tracks and felts for the windows and heavily sound deaden the doors! I'm excited to get it all back together now!
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  #2  
Old May 6th, 2013, 09:47 AM
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Jeff A
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When I installed my freshly painted hinges, I used anti-seize on the threads, and applied some Blaster Corrosion Stop to the heads of the bolts to try and reduce marring. I occasionally reapply the Blaster to the bolt heads. Two years on they still look great. The best thing I did was allow the paint to dry for a long time before trying to install.
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Old May 6th, 2013, 09:55 AM
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Andrew Najarian
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How long is "A long time"? I plan to install them a day or two after painting? I had the first 5 finished, they looked great and felt totally dry; however, after transporting them back to the shop and letting them sit here for another week wrapped in a towel, I went to install them and noticed the towel had left impressions in the clear!?!

I sanded them down again and re-cleared them last night and I have the room quite warm. I am thinking of throwing them in the oven at a low temp for a little while too to help them cure more thoroughly this time. Unfortunately, I need to get the doors on this week, its been in the back of our shop for a while now and I need to move it out for a little bit, so I need the doors on.
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Old May 6th, 2013, 10:17 AM
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Jason England
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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Old May 6th, 2013, 10:22 AM
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Andrew Najarian
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
mylar washers
That's a good idea, I don't know why I didn't think of it. McMaster Carr here I come! haha
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Old May 6th, 2013, 11:00 AM
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Jeff A
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I let them dry for about two weeks, mostly because I got pre-occupied with other things. I tried mylar washers and found it was too much of a pain to get them to sit nicely under the bolt head.
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Old May 6th, 2013, 06:01 PM
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Heat works great to help the drying process but UV is your friend. I would set them out in the sun for as long as you can.
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