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  #1  
Old September 17th, 2008, 08:17 AM
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Ray Gerber
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Input on cooling

As some of you local to NoVA know, I've had some fun with my 98 Disco's cooling system. Here's the question: is it better to get a new radiator or simply re-core the old one; fundamentally I'd like to improve the end product vice just replace it.
r-
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  #2  
Old September 17th, 2008, 08:33 AM
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I don't know LR radiators very well, but it depends on the old radiator and how many cores it has. If it's a single or two-core, many times it can be recored to a 4-core with better cooling results. I always recore all my Jeep radiators to 4-core with much better results than crappy import radiators. I would think to get a quality 4-core LR radiator would be pretty pricey versus just re-coring the old one. Make sure you find a quality shop to do the work though!

I spend and average of $250-$350 on re-coring....
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  #3  
Old September 17th, 2008, 08:55 AM
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Ray, United auto radiator in Newington comes well recommended for recores on Rovers
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  #4  
Old September 17th, 2008, 09:22 AM
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It'll cost a lot more than what Jonathan quotes, but a rebuilt one (with added cores) via Pendy will do the job nicely.
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Old September 17th, 2008, 09:47 AM
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I had a v8 Land Rover Radiator recored this past spring and it was $450. Pretty sure the stock radiator is three core.
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  #6  
Old September 17th, 2008, 10:59 AM
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Cool-
Thanks for the input.

Tony you'll appreciate the hilarity of the sequence of events; last night's heater hose issue meant that a bunch of fresh coolant went into to replace the coolant that had the stop leak (that had in fact, stopped the leak) in it...thus this am my little radiator pin hole leak comes back with a vengence.

It might be time to actually do something about this instead of the band aid approach. I just didn't want to take the truck off the road to do it.
r-
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Old September 17th, 2008, 11:37 AM
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Well, if you need to take it off the road to fix the cooling issue, you're welcome to use the 110 . . . ummm . . . errrrr . . . nevermind. what were we saying about a beater?

Tillery used to be able to get a good price on stock radiators. United used to be able to turn them around in a few days (and there's no shipping for that option). I would suggest that you not use BP for your radiator needs desptie their price, though.
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Old September 17th, 2008, 11:40 AM
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Ooh, are you offering your 110 as a loaner to take off road? I'll take it to MAR for ya!
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Old September 17th, 2008, 12:20 PM
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On a flatbed, sure! The radiator, intercooler and bracketry is with our friend in Kansas right now.
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  #10  
Old September 17th, 2008, 01:11 PM
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Ray - i have my old radiator for my '95 sitting on a shelf in my garage. it has a small hole in it as well. you're welcome to have it if you like and have it recored/rebuilt. this way you can continue driving your truck in the meantime. lemme know.
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Old September 17th, 2008, 01:18 PM
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Robbie, I appreciate that-I might take you up on the offer. Let me get her home and see if the Bars Leak works and gets the band-aid back in place as well as confer with the other side about deconfliction of automobiles and stuff.

Thanks again for the input (to everyone)
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Old September 17th, 2008, 01:39 PM
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Try Nick Markiw, he sent a radiator company a D-90 one and they recreated it in aluminum. Now they will sell upon order and I think he said they are about 500 for an all aluminum radiator.

markiw@rover-works.com
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Old September 18th, 2008, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin
It'll cost a lot more than what Jonathan quotes, but a rebuilt one (with added cores) via Pendy will do the job nicely.
Boy, you guys are going to the wrong radiator shops! It must be because there are literraly hundreds of radiator shops in SoCal. I have had four radiators rebuilt in the San Diego area for less than $300, and even a custom all-aluminum one for my desert racer built for $350. Some of those included shipping! I guess things are more expensive here in DC....
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  #14  
Old September 18th, 2008, 03:41 PM
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yeah, it is hard to even find a shop to do it in this area. We have sent a few up to Maine with good results and much cheaper than any of the quoted prices. But that is a slow process, things get dropped of and picked up whenever folks are heading up there for a rally etc.

I used these guys to recore the kodiak heater in my 109

http://www.universalcarnegiemanufact...radiators.html

the turnaround was quick. I sent it out thursday, it got there friday, they did the job and sent it out on monday and I had it back in my hot little hands on tuesday. Hell I didn't even need to leave the house. price was reasonable, just over $100. Not bad for the correct sized core and all brandy-spankin' new.


Or, you can try these guys, i didn't use them but I almost did...I think they also do 24 hour turn around:

http://www.farleysradiator.com/

And if you guys knew what haeater cores looked like inside you would stop using "stop leak" products. I've heard that "Bars Leaks" pellets don't clog heater cores but I don't believe it. That shit is for emergencies only.

If anybody ni the DC area has a radiator that is leaking due to phyiscal damage ie. overpressure breaking seams or pinholes caused by contact with foreign objects, bring it over and I'll be happy to practice my soldering technique on it. So far I'm 3 for 3 on those. Damage from corrosion, you are usually screwed since there is no metal left to solder to. FWIW I use regualr household plumbing sodler and a propane torch. I also have a cooling system pressure tester to test your system/cap/find leaks/etc.

later
d



Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeep Rescue
Boy, you guys are going to the wrong radiator shops! It must be because there are literraly hundreds of radiator shops in SoCal. I have had four radiators rebuilt in the San Diego area for less than $300, and even a custom all-aluminum one for my desert racer built for $350. Some of those included shipping! I guess things are more expensive here in DC....
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  #15  
Old September 18th, 2008, 03:56 PM
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There is one place in Pa that makes most of the cores to order for pretty much all of the radiator shops in the mid atlantic. The shops don't make the cores themselves. They sweat the tanks off and call in the dimensions to the core maker. They then just sweat the tanks back on. I shopped 4 different places and they all told me they sourced cores from the same place. They also all said the price of copper and lead was through the roof just like stainless and aluminum in the past year and that is the primary factor driving re-core pricing. How long ago were these $250 re-cores ? I went with the American made re-core over the offshore budget ones offered by RN.
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