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  #41  
Old May 10th, 2013, 10:24 AM
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Charles Galpin
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If rakeway had just responded I would have likely gone the divorced route. Maybe it's just me, but my gut says a solid adapter/coupler design is better though.

So I'll report back tomorrow night but I have lined up help tomorrow to build a wooden version of the adapter plate. It turns out the guy who can help me with the cnc mill can do the same digital readout trick. The plan is

1. Setup the adapter plate on the mill and cut the outer ring of 10 holes from my cad drawing.
2. Put the r380 tail piece onto the adapter with the back side face up and drop bolts into the holes. What this does is expose the hole for measurement while correctly positioned on the adapter
3. Used the mill head to measure the hole (I believe this is natively supported, nothing special)
4. Remove the tail piece and mill the hole into the adapter.

The measurements from step 3 will be added to the model and at some point I'll re-make it in aluminum.

Fun stuff!
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  #42  
Old May 10th, 2013, 10:40 AM
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John B.
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Remember that the alignment is performed by the two dowel pins and not the bolts.
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  #43  
Old May 10th, 2013, 10:47 AM
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Charles Galpin
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On the lt230 side yes. On the transmission side there are 2 holes that have dowel inserts around them, so I think I'm better to make sure that not only those two are properly measured but all of them are. But yes I'll be checking to make sure those two are good for sure.

Thinking about it I guess I should machine dowel pin holes in my adapter and add some dowel pins to ensure consistent alignment when bolting them up too. Thanks!
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  #44  
Old May 10th, 2013, 01:11 PM
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Thinking about it I guess I should machine dowel pin holes in my adapter and add some dowel pins to ensure consistent alignment when bolting them up too. Thanks!

Ding Ding Ding
Winner winner chicken dinner

It was often thought that some of the early nv 4500 to LT 230 conversions failed because of a lack of dowel pins to maintain the center.
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  #45  
Old May 10th, 2013, 01:20 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Yeah I'm really glad John brought that up because I should have picked up on that by now

Ok, so I ran over to sears to get some bolts and dowel pins, but they are odd sizes. Does anyone know what the proper size is? The bolts are bigger than 5/16 or 8mm but smaller than 3/8 or 10mm. I got 1/2" dowel pins but they are a bit loose. Given they have a split in them I can just expand them for now but should probably get the real deal at some point.
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  #46  
Old May 10th, 2013, 01:35 PM
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Pretty sure they are M10.
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  #47  
Old May 10th, 2013, 01:43 PM
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I've never really thought about it, but there is a size code within the part numbers, at least for the bolts in question...

http://www.lrseries.com/shop/categor...earch+the+shop
BH110081L = M10 x 40
BH110201L = M10 x 100
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  #48  
Old May 10th, 2013, 02:15 PM
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This may be fro transfer to gearbox but the ones I need are gearbox tail piece to gearbox main body. M10 is too big. I'll see if I can find a parts diagram for the R380.
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  #49  
Old May 10th, 2013, 02:52 PM
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M8?
http://www.roverparts.com.au/extension_case
FB1 08 xx 1
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  #50  
Old May 10th, 2013, 03:04 PM
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Seems so. Ok, that's a pretty loose fit so I definitely will be doing everything by the dowel pins/guides!
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  #51  
Old May 12th, 2013, 11:41 AM
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Ok, I posted the results in my build thread.

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...976#post437976

I'll report back what I end up doing for the coupler. By mid week I should have all the info needed to get it made.
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  #52  
Old May 19th, 2013, 04:58 PM
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Charles,
I'll have the center plate & dowel pins out to you Monday. I'm also going to send a mainshaft and a bearing for the center plate and a few other odds & ends that might help you.
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  #53  
Old May 20th, 2013, 09:00 AM
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Charles Galpin
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You are the man, thanks Rob!

I got my motor last week and did a test fitting, at which point I realized that although my adapter plate did an almost perfect job of putting the motor where it needed to be, the adapter plate itself now had clearance issues and was interfering with the forward output housing. Cutting away a portion of the adapter place fixed the clearance issue but compromises it's strength. So I recalled seeing the center plate on the image John linked to when I was looking for bolt size info. This should both give me the distance I need to be able to keep the adapter plate integrity and I suspect I can scan this and get the center point without using the plumb bob this time
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  #54  
Old May 20th, 2013, 10:19 AM
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Sounds good. I'm sending a mainshaft that has good output splines. The 5/R synchro hub spline area is worn, but I thought you could make use of it either by cutting it down or at least taking measurements off of it.
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  #55  
Old May 20th, 2013, 11:10 AM
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Yeah I am hoping that the shaft diameter is large enough to support milling a 1" OD spline into it, but if not still useful for measurements as my zf spud shaft has the shorter 2" splines.

I should mention that i had reached out to the big adapter players, advanced adapters and novak (and I want to say a third whom I can't recall - probably marks) and novak got back to me with confirmation that they can indeed make one for me, with a rough estimate of $800 for the coupler. So at the very least I know I can get one made by them if all else fails, but still hoping I can do something local.
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