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  #21  
Old May 8th, 2013, 05:57 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Not sure what you mean. I am referring to lateral play - how much off dead center could the input shaft be before causing premature wear or other problems?
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  #22  
Old May 8th, 2013, 06:04 PM
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Oh, I thought you were talking in and out ie how deep into the t-case the shaft would be, not at an angle.

I am guessing very little angle would cause issues with the bearings, but I have no specs.
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  #23  
Old May 8th, 2013, 06:35 PM
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Briggs I think Galpin wants to remote mount a LT 230. Can you dig up the info and pictures from when this was done in the past. That is what he needs a shaft for. I may have some parts hid that I can get pictures of later.
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  #24  
Old May 8th, 2013, 07:05 PM
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You want it centered to prevent wear. The closer the better.
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  #25  
Old May 8th, 2013, 07:34 PM
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Agreed. Now let's define close. 0.001"? 0.01"?

I ask because this is looking like the hardest part of the adapter - centering the input shaft. I scanned the mounting face of the R380 end piece and made a CAD drawing of the outer holes, but this doesn't give me the center. I took a WAG by putting the stub shaft into the input shaft hole sitting on the scanner bed and centered it using calipers. Next I am going to get someone to print me a disk with a pin hole in the center so I can hang a plumb bob in the center and mark it that way (on a cardboard cutout of the adapter). I plan on mocking this up with wood before finally making it out of aluminum but would like to get the adapter (and therefore motor) centered as perfectly as possible.
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  #26  
Old May 8th, 2013, 07:36 PM
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Why not attach the adaptor to an LT230 and scan the end of the LT230?
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  #27  
Old May 8th, 2013, 08:01 PM
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Is not the bolt pattern concentric?? I thought it had to be because people have clocked them before.
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  #28  
Old May 8th, 2013, 08:02 PM
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The output is, the input looks like Texas.
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  #29  
Old May 8th, 2013, 08:32 PM
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The machinist guy is busy so I'm trying to get by without him for this part. But the most accurate would be to use a mill digital readout and locate all the holes, including the center hole on the back side. Unfortunately there is only a single hole that goes through both sides. there is one edge section that is roughly the same on both sides, but otherwise the sides look quite different. It's a bit tough to explain but basically the back side is little help right now. That's why I am going to try a plumb bob to find the center.

I'll take some pictures to make it clearer.
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  #30  
Old May 8th, 2013, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Yup, its not circular.





But with the input hole (and seal, and bearing on teh back side) you (or your machinist) should be able to locate the center.

-Jeff
I always wanted that t-case. I forget it if was George who painted it or Rob D.
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  #31  
Old May 8th, 2013, 09:23 PM
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Jeff recently linked to the thread. It was Rob who painted it for George as a joke. I love it.

Ok, lets see if I can do a better job of explaining this. It should probably be a new thread since this one is supposed to be about the coupler and not the adapter, but it's my thread so I'm going to hijack away.

This is the starting point of my adapter - an R380 tail piece courtesy of Rob Dassler (thanks Rob!). The rhs is actually the top when installed. You are looking down it as if it were bolted to the LT230 and you were the business end of a transmission shaft going into that hole on the right which goes into the LT230 and then into the input gear. The left/bottom hole is not used in this application.
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Now this is what it looks like bolted to the LT230. The idea is to bolt a piece of plate onto the end of the R380 end piece which the motor will in turn bolt onto the plate.
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This is what you get if you put the R380 end piece face down onto a flat bed scanner and lower an input shaft into the top hole and center it as best as possible. I used this scan to make a template for the adapter plate. My next step is to cut out an adapter plate and see how this works although since don't have either the motor or coupler made, it's a little tricky to test if it's centered
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So you might be thinking it should be pretty easy to scan the back side, align the scans and voila you have the center hole, but this is what the back looks like when scanned. Unfortunately there are not enough common points to be able to align the two scans.
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So my next move is to 3D print a disc to fill the hole with just a tiny hole in the center. I'll cut a test plate without a center hole and use a plumb bob and the centering disc to mark the center and then take measurements and add it to my drawing. Hopefully this will be the most accurate.


I hope this explains it a bit better. If you have any better ideas let me know.
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  #32  
Old May 9th, 2013, 08:05 AM
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I know it's complicated but this is the borrowed LT230 for test fitting. I am not sure what all is coming with mine, but I suspect I'll need stuff since I have nothing. I'll worry about it then

Yes my fear is any of my hand measurements with calipers are going to be suspect so I'd like to get it done by a machinist. I will approach the big adapter boys and see what they can offer. At the very least it looks like their designs all have a cylindrical adapter body which I assume means centered on the input shaft so would be easier to center an end plate onto them. But they won't be long enough so I'd still have to get more custom stuff done anyway!
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  #33  
Old May 9th, 2013, 01:46 PM
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A few more pictures. for some random thoughts on the project. The adapter housing seems the easy part to get manufactured. It will be the couple shaft that needs some luck or the right contact. I know Ryan Sakurado had one made. I think Warn Inc did it for him.

The mainshaft of the transmission I pictured was just under 1" necked down from the splines. And just under 1 1/4" at the bulge nearest the splines.

Does the series front axle U-joints match the input gear splines Briggs. Is that how the remote mount LT 230 has been accomplished in the past? I have not kept track of that information.
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  #34  
Old May 9th, 2013, 01:50 PM
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Here is the money shot. A marks adapter
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  #35  
Old May 9th, 2013, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
I am not over thinking it. I am planning on drilling it if it isn't! I am getting help from a guy with access to a full machine shop so this should be trivial.
These gears do not drill very easily. EDM is a better route. In the end just getting the correct part at a good price is time better spent.

------ Follow up post added May 9th, 2013 01:18 PM ------

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No, he is making an adapter using the back of an LT77 or R380 and mounting that to an electric motor. He is making a full sized Land Rover golf cart. http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=44941

I can dig up some divorced mount info though if its of any use.

-Jeff

I think it might help with his coupler if you have pictures of the divorce mount items.
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  #36  
Old May 9th, 2013, 02:45 PM
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I remember Ryan S talking about Dutchman. But do not think they worked with him on it. It was produced from 300m in its final stage. I think he had 2-3 built after failures. I have the last version.

What about Series front inner axle to drive flange. Would that be a drive to the input gear on the LT 230 that leaves a u-joint flange. Is that how the remote mount LT 230 has been done in the past? Just can not remember that far back I guess.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
The Driveshaft slipjoint splines are the same for coiler and series, BUT, these are different from the input shaft splines.

I also believe that the input shaft splines are the same for the Series case and the LT230.

If Warn did a one-off, it was most likely subbed out to Dutchman.

-Jeff
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  #37  
Old May 9th, 2013, 03:37 PM
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I wouldn't call that one divorced - it's more like what I am trying to do.

I'm sure if welded correctly and balanced it would work, but would rather leave that as a last resort.

I could dig through my notes I kept but I did search extensively for this for a while. People have either gotten professional adapters done, rolled their own like the one above or gone divorced with a short driveshaft. It's hard to tell where the successes or failures were but Dan PR here had Tim cooper weld a flange onto a zf spud shaft (I believe) and did a divorced setup and is happy with it, and Slade's truck has this too. If rakeway had responded I probably would have gone this route, although I'd still have to get a yoke setup for the motor side too.

Marks has the closest adapter to what I am trying to do. I have not approached them to see if they can do a one-off. Novak and Advanced have both done LT230 adapters before afaikt and I sent them each an email today to see what (if anything) they can offer. But given my motor is rare I think I need to get someone local to help so things like test fitting are not a problem. I don't want to send the motor off to anyone (it's big, heavy, and expensive).
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  #38  
Old May 9th, 2013, 03:48 PM
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Thing is I am sure I have seen a slip coupler that fit into the LT 230 input gear and even had a shoulder to serve as a seal surface. Must not be a Land Rover part I saw. This to a U-joint, to a motor coupler, could be the simple answer. That is what I was hoping Briggs might have some pictures of. Maybe a trip to a driveline ship with an input gear could prove helpful. That is why I wondered about pictures of different approaches to the Divorced LT 230 and pictures. To find the unicorn.

Good Luck Charles. Hope it is not an expensive adventure. It has been for many others.
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  #39  
Old May 9th, 2013, 04:08 PM
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For divorced setups, these are nice images

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=82423

And midway down this page, rakeway apparently used to sell them

http://www.rakeway.co.uk/page12.html
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  #40  
Old May 9th, 2013, 04:23 PM
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Well that is it then the remote input to a coupler to a propshaft flange that fits your motor. You just have to build the box that goes around it


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For divorced setups, these are nice images

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=82423

And midway down this page, rakeway apparently used to sell them

http://www.rakeway.co.uk/page12.html
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