Ignition Switch Will Not Stay in Position II - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 11th, 2012, 08:21 PM
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Ignition Switch Will Not Stay in Position II

My ignition switch will not stay in position II.
So I can start but it stops running immediately because the key seems to slip past II just after I start in position III.
So can I fix the ignition switch or do I have to get a new one???
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  #2  
Old March 11th, 2012, 08:28 PM
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Sounds like maybe a new ignition switch is needed. The glue inside is probably breaking down and shifting the contacts around.

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=26677
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  #3  
Old March 11th, 2012, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
Sounds like maybe a new ignition switch is needed. The glue inside is probably breaking down and shifting the contacts around.

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=26677
I read your post, but think it could be something different.
You can no longer feel that catch or notch when passing through position II on the way to position III to fire up the engine. Once you let off position III it slips to position I and kills the engine unless you hold it just right in where position II should be, but once you let go it slips to position I.
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1995 NAS Defender 90 AA Yellow #2986: Current
2009 Range Rover Supercharged Black/Black: Current

1993 NAS Defender 110 #375/500: Sold
1995 NAS Defender 90 Soft Top Beluga Black #2556: Sold
1991 Range Rover Hunter Green: Sold
1997 NAS Defender 90 Station Wagon Portofino Red #128: Sold
1993 NAS Defender 110 Beluga Black #215/500: sold
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  #4  
Old March 11th, 2012, 09:52 PM
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It doesn't seem different to me. I first lost II, then I later lost III - sounds like ignition switch to me.
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  #5  
Old March 11th, 2012, 09:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
It doesn't seem different to me. I first lost II, then I later lost III - sounds like ignition switch to me.
So did you buy the whole tumbler thing and electrical thing that goes on the back.
It just slips and if I hold it in place then it works. Seems mechanical not electrical.
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1995 NAS Defender 90 AA Yellow #2986: Current
2009 Range Rover Supercharged Black/Black: Current

1993 NAS Defender 110 #375/500: Sold
1995 NAS Defender 90 Soft Top Beluga Black #2556: Sold
1991 Range Rover Hunter Green: Sold
1997 NAS Defender 90 Station Wagon Portofino Red #128: Sold
1993 NAS Defender 110 Beluga Black #215/500: sold
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  #6  
Old March 11th, 2012, 10:07 PM
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Is your wheel unlocking and then relocking when it slips back? All I did was replace the switch was about $15.
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  #7  
Old March 11th, 2012, 10:53 PM
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Jon, It should be just the round electrical switch at the back you need to replace. It controls the detent position for the key as well as switches the circuits.

Ian
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  #8  
Old March 11th, 2012, 10:57 PM
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Jon_Winningham
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
Is your wheel unlocking and then relocking when it slips back? All I did was replace the switch was about $15.
I did not notice any difference with the wheel.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ipgregory View Post
Jon, It should be just the round electrical switch at the back you need to replace. It controls the detent position for the key as well as switches the circuits.

Ian
OK, cool will order a new one in the am...

Thanks guys!
Oh and, Josh, I take back all the non-funny horsey jokes!
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1995 NAS Defender 90 AA Yellow #2986: Current
2009 Range Rover Supercharged Black/Black: Current

1993 NAS Defender 110 #375/500: Sold
1995 NAS Defender 90 Soft Top Beluga Black #2556: Sold
1991 Range Rover Hunter Green: Sold
1997 NAS Defender 90 Station Wagon Portofino Red #128: Sold
1993 NAS Defender 110 Beluga Black #215/500: sold
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