ignition switch id help needed - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old November 9th, 2014, 02:21 PM
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Kevin C. Doyle
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ignition switch id help needed

OK, so I've kinda given up on on my drivetrain issue, going to take it to Dealer...but...was going to replace my ignition assembly, doing research utilizing the handy ole search function, and no one mentions the wires that are soldered onto the assembly itself...

All of the pictures I've seen on RN etc, don't show this..From my parts search I found this and it looks like connector has just been moved to rear. Just don't want to order wrong parts

Any body have a part number or two?
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  #2  
Old November 9th, 2014, 03:12 PM
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Kevin C. Doyle
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ok, new issue...burnt

I drilled out the screws, not easy not difficult and removed the ignition lock assembly only to discover this burnt connection. Can anyone diagnose this? Is it just because the ignition switch went bad?

Is it worth replacing the entire assembly or is this the issue Josh discussed in his 2010 ignition thread? Just replace rear switch?
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Old November 9th, 2014, 03:31 PM
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Is it brown? Looks like it may be the alternator wire.
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Old November 9th, 2014, 03:44 PM
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Kevin C. Doyle
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Uh oh....It is

Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
Is it brown? Looks like it may be the alternator wire.
brown....don't tell me that's indicative of an alternator issue...sheesh...

90 was running fine-other than drivetrain issues-when I started getting random lights flashing on warning panel and then truck would only start and run when I fiddled with key and held it which is why I began with ignition switch/column lock assembly.

Although now that it's out and I removed the switch I can see that it is a very simple mechanism....took the switch apart as well, pretty simple stuff and not much can go wrong as far as I can tell..

prolly no need to replace lock assembly...

KCD
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Old November 9th, 2014, 04:05 PM
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I can't tell the color of your shorted out wire. Look on the back of your alternator and see if it's the same one.
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Old November 9th, 2014, 04:09 PM
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it is same color but

Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
I can't tell the color of your shorted out wire. Look on the back of your alternator and see if it's the same one.

definitely not same gauge but identical color...

uh oh....
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Old November 9th, 2014, 04:53 PM
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there are a myriad of heavy gauge brown wires on these trucks. Brown is typically power feed and black is usually ground. There is no wire that runs from the back of the alternator to the ignition switch on any rover I have taken apart. The heavy gauge brown from the stud on the alternator usually goes straight to the positive lug on the starter where the cable from the battery attaches. That is how the alternator recharges the battery. There is no heavy gauge wire direct from the starter to the switch. The trigger wire, the smallest gauge wire on the ignition switch goes to starter relay which then sends juice to the starter solenoid.

Spent all afternoon getting a 14cux injection 4.2 run in a 110 with a 2006 take out main wiring harness that was retro fit into a 1983 formerly diesel 110. Trial and error determined what wire went where on the ignition switch as it wasn't the stock NAS configuration. Sweet sound when it fired up after hundreds of hours of work.
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Old November 9th, 2014, 06:13 PM
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Brown wire to battery, red/white wire to starter. Brown burnt could be from starter, but other things too. Actually shouldn't have burnt, just fried a fuse, so maybe broke and the shorted to ground? Hard to tell.
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Old November 9th, 2014, 07:29 PM
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From the wiring diagrams I have seen a brown wire or a brown wire with a white trace is from the main fuse box. It is the feed wire for the switch. The other wires go out of the switch. Does your truck have the fuse box on the bulkhead next to the gas pedal wire? I would check that fuse box.
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Old November 9th, 2014, 08:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt Milks View Post
From the wiring diagrams I have seen a brown wire or a brown wire with a white trace is from the main fuse box. It is the feed wire for the switch. The other wires go out of the switch. Does your truck have the fuse box on the bulkhead next to the gas pedal wire? I would check that fuse box.
This
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Old November 10th, 2014, 05:31 PM
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well hell-

I ended up ordering just the ignition switch that screws into the back.

After reading Josh's posts on this, I decided to try that inexpensive fix first, $43 bucks with shipping, parts geek-because I did not want to lose the chime that makes these trucks lovingly NAS and RN told me that the ignition lock barrel for NAS is no longer available.

Hope it still works.

Out of town this week, installing this coming weekend and will let you know if this works becasue I am seeing a number of posts on this issue...
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  #12  
Old November 15th, 2014, 07:25 PM
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Kevin C. Doyle
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Success!!!!!

Well boys, feeling confident enough to perhaps tackle that cv joint now!!

Took the long route in replacing my ignition switch.

Removed dash, steering wheel shroud, and a few other pieces to have complete and unfettered access to ignition lock. Found a bulb out in speedo so replaced that as well.

Drilled out 2 shear bolts, didn't take too long, went to Ace for replacements, had ordered ignition switch, took a lot of pictures with new IPhone 6 Plus. Slowly and gently reassembled and VOILA!

90 starts like new.

On to drivers side cv joint before winter really sets in..
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