Ignition Module Relocation: Help - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old February 18th, 2004, 11:47 AM
JRowe
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Jared Rowe
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Question Ignition Module Relocation: Help

I just got the kit to relocate the ignition module on my 94ST. The instructions that came with it are for a discoverys and range rovers. So, I have a couple questions for someone who's done the install on a D90.

1. It says to remove the distributor assambley. I'd rather not do this. Can I remove the old unit and install the adapter piece without removing the distributor?

2. When the install is complete it says to start the engine and adjust the timing appropriately. Will I really need to do this, because I don't know how. I was hoping this was a simple plug and play swap.

I may have other questions, but this is it for now. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
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  #2  
Old February 19th, 2004, 02:16 AM
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Scott Pelly
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Jared,
What was the part # and cost of the kit? I am wanting to do the same mod. Getting tired of stalling out in the bush all the time when the engine compartment gets too hot.

thanks....
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Old February 19th, 2004, 11:08 AM
JRowe
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Scott,

Part # STC1856. Cost was around $225 through D.A.P. They were the only ones who had it in stock, and they had one of the best prices. Good luck.
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Old February 19th, 2004, 12:24 PM
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You're going to have to pull the distributor. But, if you mark it's position well with a grease pen and are careful, you should be able to pull it out and put it back in place easily enough. While you're there, check your vaccum advance and the reluctor wheel thingy's clearance and oil the tophat. Check Europarts before you order, the last one I got from him cost $150ish.

Good luck,

Tony
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Old February 19th, 2004, 12:56 PM
JRowe
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tony, why do i have to pull the distributor? just for acccess to the two mounting screws for the unit? or is there some other reasoning behind it?
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  #6  
Old February 19th, 2004, 01:01 PM
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Yup, just to get to the mounting screws. I couldn't figure out a way to do it otherwise. Maybe you'll have better luck. . .
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  #7  
Old February 19th, 2004, 01:14 PM
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Anthony is right. I have the relo kits on both my Rangies.

John
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Old February 19th, 2004, 02:32 PM
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Come to think, I did find a small ratcheting screwdriver at sears a couple of weeks ago -- it's just a flat bar with the driver coming out at 90 degrees from the bar. That might work, but I'm not near a truck so I couldn't tell you for sure. Regardless, it's a good opportunity for you to learn a bit more about your rig and check a few other potential problem areas.
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  #9  
Old February 20th, 2004, 02:59 PM
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Chris Kearney
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I have heard a lot of talk about this fix over the years, but have been too embarassed to ask, what is the ignition module and what does it look like? I have heard that many trucks had this done by the dealer early on in their lives, and I wanted to know how to check if mine has and what to look for.

Thanks,
Chris
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  #10  
Old February 20th, 2004, 03:22 PM
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Jared Rowe
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Chris,

The module is a little black box, about 2"x2"x1/2", that is mounted to the side of the distributor. It's mounted on the lower side, so it's kind of barried and will be diffcult to get to. If you look close, you will see it.

If your truck has had the relocation kit installed, there will still be a box mounted on the distributor. It is a dummy box that looks similar to the original module, however, it will have a wire running from it to the real module which will probably be mounted somewhere near the coil on the driver's side of the engine bay. The replacement module will be mounted on a rectangular piece of aluminum that is supposed to be some sorry excuse for a heatsink (about 2"x5").
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  #11  
Old February 20th, 2004, 05:11 PM
JohnC
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Here are some pics of the kit (sorry for the poor quality of the photos):

http://www.4x4ag.com/relo_kit.htm
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  #12  
Old February 22nd, 2004, 01:24 PM
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Steve Cooper
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I installed the relocation kit on my 93 RRC a few months ago. I didn't remove the distributor but I did have to disconnect the vacuum advance and turn the distrubutor to get to the two bolts that hold the amplifier on. I also removed the upper radiator hose to make it easier to work on the distributor.

Once the dummy amp is attached, it's pretty simple to complete the install. I used a timing light to get the distributor back to where it should be.

SC
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  #13  
Old February 23rd, 2004, 12:50 PM
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Have those of you that installed this kit found that it solves the stalling problem? I've heard mixed things about whether this kit does the trick.
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  #14  
Old February 23rd, 2004, 03:45 PM
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Douglas, in my case it didn't (88 RRC). It was installed on my 91 RR when I bought it.

Now, on my friends 91 RR (AdrianS from Roseland, NJ) it did fix his problem. He was having problems when the engine was warm and he had LR (I can't remember if it was Paramus or Parsippany) look at it and they recommended the relocation kit.

Hope this helps,

John C.
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  #15  
Old February 23rd, 2004, 06:36 PM
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Thanks - I guess I'll just give it a try and see if it helps - I can't take the stalling anymore , so I guess it is worth trying if there is any chance it will work.
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  #16  
Old February 23rd, 2004, 09:28 PM
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Doug, have you tried any other fixes for your stalling issue? It's more often related to a bad stepper motor/base idle issues or a bad connection on the MAF sensor.

The ignition module relocation kit was released to prevent failure of the module due to temperature, electrical interference and vibration, which made the vehicle difficult to start, if at all. As the module begins to fail, it can cause the coil to overheat and leak. The kit became a factory installed item for a few years and was actually installed incorrectly on a number of vehicles (wires were reversed in the connector) which caused a misfire a high speed.

I installed the kit more as a preventive measure and peace of mind. I'd had it sitting around for a year or so and I was doing the plugs/wires and cap/rotor so I decided to install the kit. Hopefully, that's one less thing to worry about.

SC
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  #17  
Old February 23rd, 2004, 09:41 PM
JohnC
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Douglas,

If you need to borrow a relo kit let me know since I am not using the one on my 91 Rangie. Also, Adrian blew the engine on his Rangie so he's parting it out.

Call us if you need help.

John C. (845) 680-0128 or (917) 470-4863
Adrian S. (973) 342-3520
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  #18  
Old February 23rd, 2004, 11:27 PM
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Steve C:

I have not really tried any other fixes other than bringing my D-90 to the Landrover Dealer in Woodbridge NJ who was relatively clueless. I explained the problem: Vehicle occasionally stalls after the engine warms up (with the likelihood of a stall seeming to increase when I turn sharply or hit a bump) - If I turn off the ignition and restart it, it runs fine for a while, but eventually stalls again. The dealer adjusted my points and timing - as you would expect, this had no effect on the problem.

Can you tell me more about the issue with the connection at the MAF sensor? The fact that my problem seems to be associated with movement (bumps, etc) in addition to temperature seems to indicate that something like a loose connection or a short of some kind could be to blame. Also, the problem did not start until after some very wet off-roading in the dunes of the Outer Banks, NC about a year ago, further confusing the issue.

John C - Thank you very much for the offer but I already ordered the relo kit. I'll let you know if it helps (and if it does not, at least I will have eliminated that as a possible cause).
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  #19  
Old February 24th, 2004, 03:08 AM
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Doug, stalling after the engine is warm is often caused by the stepper motor (IACV) going bad. I'm going to quote a LR Technical Service Bulletin that applies to all models:

"Some vehicles may suffer from a symptom of stall immediately following a start. This symptom is more apparent on a hot restart but can occur under any start condition. This stall occurs because the I.A.C.V. pintle "creeps out" from its correct start position prior to starting. As this "creep out" occurs it restricts the volume of air flowing into the engine via the I.A.C.V. system. This leads to the rapid drop in engine speed/stall immediately following a start. The I.A.C.V. always moves against it's spring to the fully retracted position on vehicle power down. This action leads to the possibility of "creep" occurring. The amount of "creep" that occurs is related directly to the internal mechanical resistance of the I.A.C.V."

I have experienced this myself. I cleaned the stepper first, which helped for a few days, then back to stalling again. As you pointed out, the stalling is increased by turning the wheel. Trying to park becomes a pain in the ass. I replaced the stepper and the stalling was cured. BTW, a Wells AC102 from Autozone is a direct replacement and costs about $39. I did have to adjust the base idle up a little.

Other possibilities, especially since you mentioned wet off-roading, are the MAF sensor connector, O2 sensor ground strap and possibly the ECM connector. They can all cause erratic idle and/or stalling.

Pull the connector off the MAF, spray both halves with contact cleaner and coat with Lithium grease. Push the connector on and off a few times to make a good connection.

Check the ground strap at the rear of the left cylinder head. A loose connection is not good and stalling on bumps could point to this.

The other end of the MAF and ground connections are in the ECM 40 way connector. LR claims some problems with the plating on the pins being "thicker than it should be" leading to "micro-corrosion and resistance build up" What ever their lame excuse is, you can pull off the connector and carefully clean the pins with contact cleaner, if all else fails. Pin 4 is the O2 ground, pin 25 is the MAF ground and pin 35 is the MAF signal.

I hope between the relocation kit and one or all of the above you can cure the stalling. It was definitely the most frustrating problem I've had to deal with.

SC
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  #20  
Old February 24th, 2004, 09:13 AM
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On top of the other options listed above, consider having a look at the fuel and coolant temperature sensors. Be sure to check the grounds at the back of the block on the drivers side and at the bulkhead. The ICM and grounds were the source of the same sort of stalling issue in my case, I wound up running an auxiliary ground from the block to the chassis as backup.
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