If I hook up 2 Optimas to the stock alt. via a solenoid, will it overcharge a batt? - Defender Source
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Old January 26th, 2011, 06:14 PM
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If I hook up 2 Optimas to the stock alt. via a solenoid, will it overcharge a batt?

Even after upgrading all the ground and power cables to the chassis/battery, my lights still dim a little when the 15' kicker sub hits hard, so I've decided to wire 2 Blue top optimas via this PAC brand 200 amp solenoid. I read that this set up works but that it could "overcharge" the second battery? If this was true wouldn't the first battery get overcharged as well? I like the fancy split chargers that I see from Luna and Ironman but if its not neccesary, shouldn't I just stick with the 2 battery 1 solenoid option?
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  #2  
Old January 26th, 2011, 06:34 PM
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You did not listened to me... you need a capacitor, not bigger wire. Bigger wire is needed to deal with voltage drops and/or larger loads. The alternator output still the same.

Also, the alternator has a voltage regulator to avoid overcharging the battery.
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Old January 26th, 2011, 06:39 PM
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I'm no expert but, overcharging the battery? Why? If you get enough charge in the first one then flick the switch to get to the second one, the alternator will do it's job like if it has only one battery.. does it?
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Old January 26th, 2011, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrc.swb View Post
You did not listened to me... you need a capacitor, not bigger wire. Bigger wire is needed to deal with voltage drops and/or larger loads. The alternator output still the same.

Also, the alternator has a voltage regulator to avoid overcharging the battery.
I did put a capacitor, its a 10 farad capacitor from planet audio. It still dims when the subs hit real hard. You wouldn't happen to know what the output is on our stock alternator would you? I'm guessing 90 - 100 amps.

------ Follow up post added January 26th, 2011 05:10 PM ------

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Originally Posted by CDNRover View Post
I'm no expert but, overcharging the battery? Why? If you get enough charge in the first one then flick the switch to get to the second one, the alternator will do it's job like if it has only one battery.. does it?
Well the way I was going to wire up (how the instructions suggested) is that both batteries will be charged when the key is turned to the acc position (or when its on). But as soon as you turn the key to take it out the switch shuts off thus isolating the 2nd battery so that you can listen to tunes or use a winch without touching the primary battery. You could put a switch on the acc wire going to the solenoid to give you more control but I was thinking of making it idiot proof. With the idiot being me
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Old January 26th, 2011, 08:40 PM
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Howdy, Neil-

I can't say if it wll fix your dimming lights with mobile disco issue or not, but basically what you're describing (solenoid serving two Optimas) is what I've installed in both my D90s.

I've used the Painless 40102 (or 40103 if waterproof is desired) dual battery kits, and they work great for keeping a second battery charged but in reserve and supporting the effort. It's a beefy solenoid with a switchable capability to control which battery is online for starting and how they're charging when the truck is running. As long as you follow the simple install instructions, its idiot-proof. It's also a lot cheaper alternative to the more expensive setups you see advertised with fancy status panels, etc. (Which I also didn't want.)

I installed the three-position switch and red/green status lights on the front of the seatbox battery compartment a little bit to the left of the parking brake handle.

Murph
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Old January 26th, 2011, 11:28 PM
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If both are the same age you can also just wire them in parallel, you just end up with increased capacity. Split charging is really only needed if you run separate starter and accessory banks.
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  #7  
Old January 27th, 2011, 12:07 AM
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The way it's set-up, after using (abusing in case of winch) the second battery will get flat. As soon as you turn the key they are hook on together? Then the full one will discharge in the flat one. Making both battery weak. If you're able to fire up your beast, the alternator will work hard to recharge both.. Might not make it for a long period...Check how hot your alternator gets.
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Old January 27th, 2011, 10:42 AM
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If you want my opinion wire the batteries in parallel.

I also recomend rewiring your headlights. Use a kit or make one yourself like this. As you probably know the power is all going through the switch 'currently'

PAINLESS WIRING H4 UPGRADE HARNESS WITH RELAY : #4194

"To get maximum power from your headlights, it is recommended to have the shortest possible distance between the power source and the bulbs. Some factory headlight wiring is not designed to handle high power Halogen Head-lights, especially when upgrading to a higher wattage. Running the power through the switch is an even worse situation. Resistance in small gauge wire or in the switch will lower the output at the lamp. Be Safe! Our headlight harnesses draw power directly from the battery, through a relay, to the headlights, providing full power to your H4 conversion headlights or Halogen sealed beams. They can also be used to relocate head-lamps to a remote location (to accommodate a snow plow, for example). They are made with TXL high temp wire, weather resistant 30-Amp fuse, and two 40-Amp weather resistant relays capable of handling up to 150 watts. For use on vehicles with a 2-headlight system using dual filament sealed beams or H-4 headlight conversions. "
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  #9  
Old January 27th, 2011, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy View Post
if you want my opinion wire the batteries in parallel.

I also recomend rewiring your headlights. Use a kit or make one yourself like this. As you probably know the power is all going through the switch 'currently'
x2..
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  #10  
Old January 27th, 2011, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy View Post
If you want my opinion wire the batteries in parallel.

I also recomend rewiring your headlights. Use a kit or make one yourself like this. As you probably know the power is all going through the switch 'currently'

PAINLESS WIRING H4 UPGRADE HARNESS WITH RELAY : #4194

"To get maximum power from your headlights, it is recommended to have the shortest possible distance between the power source and the bulbs. Some factory headlight wiring is not designed to handle high power Halogen Head-lights, especially when upgrading to a higher wattage. Running the power through the switch is an even worse situation. Resistance in small gauge wire or in the switch will lower the output at the lamp. Be Safe! Our headlight harnesses draw power directly from the battery, through a relay, to the headlights, providing full power to your H4 conversion headlights or Halogen sealed beams. They can also be used to relocate head-lamps to a remote location (to accommodate a snow plow, for example). They are made with TXL high temp wire, weather resistant 30-Amp fuse, and two 40-Amp weather resistant relays capable of handling up to 150 watts. For use on vehicles with a 2-headlight system using dual filament sealed beams or H-4 headlight conversions. "

Interesting, I did purchase the ARB harness (haven't yet put it on) so thats one upgrade I've been planning for sure. So with the batteries in parrallel, the voltage will still be 14.+ and the alternator will charge both nicely at the same time? Sounds like a better idea than this solenoid thing. So its just + to + and - to - then?
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  #11  
Old January 27th, 2011, 01:57 PM
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I hate to say it but if you spend 50 bucks and go to an audio shop, they can make what you have work perfectly. I think you may have it wired wrong, or you got a bad cap.
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Old January 27th, 2011, 02:10 PM
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Could be a bad cap that is true, but it does hold a charge, after disconnecting I tested it and theres voltage in it. Mabye I should try another one, I have a 3 farad one that I've been saving. But something to consider is that this Kicker L7 15 inch sub is pretty hardcore. It's 1000 watts rms and I've got 2 amps running my entire system, the sub amp alone is 1200 watts rms. Also I have 2 tv's connected and of course the regular D90 systems. I only notice the slight dimming when I have the sub turned up to the point where people ahead of me start turning their heads. I also noticed the idle gets a little erratic as well during the hard thumps so i think the 2nd battery would be the best bet for now. After this I'd like to upgrade to a 200+ amp alt. I'm about to purchase 2 Orion hcca 15's and 2, 2500 watt orion amps which push out about 5000 watts rms, those subs alone need at least 2000 watts rms to run so I will need a bigger alternator and of course, that 2nd battery.
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Old January 27th, 2011, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil McCauley View Post
I'm about to purchase 2 Orion hcca 15's and 2, 2500 watt orion amps which push out about 5000 watts rms, those subs alone need at least 2000 watts rms to run so I will need a bigger alternator and of course, that 2nd battery.
and ear plugs?

I'll probably be able to hear it from here ... do you take requests?
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Old January 27th, 2011, 03:54 PM
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No-one finds 2 tv's in a D90 a bit excessive? A ST to boot!
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Old January 27th, 2011, 04:13 PM
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Maybe an oboard generator?

He he he

Yes just hook both batteries to positive and both to ground respectively. Seems a good place to start, batteries and the headlight wiring upgrade. Then back to busting a cap in someones a$$

Quite a chick magnet with all those watts you are pumping D-man


I can sell you a Bosch alternator that would help you keep up with the demand. Direct fit.
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  #16  
Old January 27th, 2011, 04:30 PM
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Don't you have the HID lights? If so, make sure they are wired right. If not, I am with Pendy on the harness upgrade. Also with Pendy on the start with them in parrallel. Finally, 1200 watts should have one heck of a cable (what gauge are you running now) and I would run the ground directly to the battery rather than the chassis.
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Old January 27th, 2011, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Don't you have the HID lights? If so, make sure they are wired right. If not, I am with Pendy on the harness upgrade. Also with Pendy on the start with them in parrallel. Finally, 1200 watts should have one heck of a cable (what gauge are you running now) and I would run the ground directly to the battery rather than the chassis.
I have the HID lights and the ARB harness but I havent hooked them up yet, still contemplating on where I'm going to mount the ballasts, plus I've been working on the amp wiring. I am using thick Summit racing 0 guage cable from the battery to the capacitor. From the capacitor its all summit 4 guage power and 4 guage ground from the amps to the rollcage, (The amps accept 4 guage maximum for both + & -) then from there I put more cable and grounded that point from the roll cage, down some mystery factor hole behind the seat box then over transfer case and grounded into the same bolt/ground the battery cable is grounded to. Using 4 guage wire from that ground as well. I also ran 4 guage wire directly from alt to battery. So I think its properly well grounded at this point. Pendy how much for that Alternator? I will install HID lights hopefully this weekend (just bought new bezels) and I will wire both batteries in parallel. I have a new blue top optima to match the one I'm using now. The hcca 4ohm 15's and new amps I will do this summer. I put the tv's in for fun for the rear passenger (7" screen) and I have an alpine single din headunit with the flip out 7" screen that I just bought. Its' pretty cool but I had to modify the tuffy box to make it fit. Heres my train of thought, to me, my D90 is a play car, a barbie doll if you will, I like to dress it up and put crazy things on it, including 2 15's eventually because I want to see how much bass I can get out of a D90 MuahahHaha I don't take my D that seriously like as a daily driver, its just for fun and learning. Also if your wondering just how loud the D90 is, it is extremely loud, the sound pressure inside the cab is beyond deafening, when turned up to 15 on the volume (gain properly adjusted) I can't sit inside the D90 for more than 30 seconds (neither can anyone else) because I can feel my ear drums start to hurt so I have to get out. It's actually kinda cool.
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  #18  
Old January 27th, 2011, 05:48 PM
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Personally, I'd recommend using a battery isolator for the dual batteries. There's certainly no problem with just connecting them together ( providing you use a heavy gauge battery cable) but the isolator will insure that you don't drain down your batteries while allowing both to get the proper charge.
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Old January 27th, 2011, 06:06 PM
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Personally, I'd recommend using a battery isolator for the dual batteries. There's certainly no problem with just connecting them together ( providing you use a heavy gauge battery cable) but the isolator will insure that you don't drain down your batteries while allowing both to get the proper charge.
Thats what I thought, I bought a 200 amp isolater already too. Either or is fine, the isolater was only $50.

------ Follow up post added January 27th, 2011 03:27 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
and ear plugs?

I'll probably be able to hear it from here ... do you take requests?
I never saw a D90 with 2 15's, or one 18. I just want to be the first to do it hehe
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Old January 27th, 2011, 06:48 PM
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Would live to see some pics of how/where you mounted all this stuff!
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