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  #21  
Old December 7th, 2007, 08:13 PM
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Phillip
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I think that t-case looks fine. This being said mine leaks so what. Mine doesnt seem to like the interstate, always smells like 90wt when I stop to fill up after long runs on the interstate. I might have to add a little every other oil change. I think the transfer case is the only thing on my truck that leaks.
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  #22  
Old December 8th, 2007, 12:22 PM
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EDWARD BAHAW
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How often do you guys check the case for top ups?

Just curious?
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  #23  
Old December 8th, 2007, 01:48 PM
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every oil change or before a long trip
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  #24  
Old December 10th, 2007, 10:18 AM
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S. Smith
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X2 every 3000 miles or before a big weekend whichever comes sooner.
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  #25  
Old October 3rd, 2009, 03:09 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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What kind of fluid should I put in my R380 transfer case?
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  #26  
Old October 3rd, 2009, 04:24 PM
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Jack Quinlan
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An LT-230 doesn't need to be resealed until gear oil is blowing on to the back of the truck.
Otherwise, just keep topping it up.
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  #27  
Old October 3rd, 2009, 04:55 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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Just curious what brand/type of oil should go into the transfer case. Does it matter? Will it do harm if i pick the wrong brand?
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  #28  
Old October 3rd, 2009, 05:14 PM
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In your R380 most people use Redline MTL, in the transfer box, use 80-90 weight gear oil.
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  #29  
Old October 6th, 2009, 12:12 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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I have the exact same leak. I'm reluctant to take the whole thing apart just to swap out a gasket so I was going to try this product:

https://gouniversalproducts.com/prod...Stop-leak.html

Has anybody tried this stuff?

Also, the filler plug for the transfer case is so stuck, its like its been welded shut. I know this has been discussed in another thread, I just couldn't find it. Should I try to remove it after driving around for a while (heat it up)? Should I use WD-40? Any tips on how to remove the plug without breaking it or hurting myself in the process would be greatly appreciated.
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  #30  
Old October 6th, 2009, 12:23 PM
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Bill Lewis
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I have never used that.

I think I used an old torque wrench the first time I had to break that filler loose.

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  #31  
Old October 6th, 2009, 03:13 PM
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Dan Prasada-Rao
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeslandrover
I use an old empty fire extinguisher to fill the oils. Replace the nozzle with some 1/2" tube, Unscrew the top, fill to 3/4 with the required oil, pressure up to 125 psi, squeeze the handle and watch those difficult to reach cases fill speedily. I have 2 extinguishers - one with EP90 and the other ATF for the main gearbox, works a treat (but not on fires)
I bet that would work great on a fire too, just not for putting it out. Make sure you don't get them mixed up with the real extinguishers.
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  #32  
Old October 6th, 2009, 03:35 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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For a couple of bucks you can buy a pump (similar to the ones that are on soap dispensers) that will fit most quart sized gear oil bottles.

Quote:
Originally Posted by slorocco
I bet that would work great on a fire too, just not for putting it out. Make sure you don't get them mixed up with the real extinguishers.
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  #33  
Old October 6th, 2009, 05:20 PM
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Mike Hammond
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Still not as fast as an old extinguisher pressured up to 100 psi
And it's a very exciting way of getting the BBQ going but does leave a slight aftertaste on the food
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  #34  
Old October 6th, 2009, 05:57 PM
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steve
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It is worth while to mention that resealing the inspection plate is easy and could be causing the leak.
Just drain it, take the plate off, and reseal with right stuff.

If it is the output seal, easy peasy.
Remove drive shaft (mark position)
slaken big nut and remove flange
remove seal... install new one.
put back together.

Unless it is one of the upper seals it is really easy.


Oh yes, IMHO I would not use the stop leak stuff.
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  #35  
Old October 6th, 2009, 08:49 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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I will wipe it off to see if I can determine where the leak is coming from.

What's so bad about using the White Shepherd stop leak product?
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  #36  
Old October 6th, 2009, 09:31 PM
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steve
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All the sop leak things make seals swell (although be careful some have other things like fillers). I think over time and heat they can then get brittle. As a last resort, go for it, but you may as well try to solve the problem first.
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  #37  
Old October 6th, 2009, 11:04 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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That's where I was headed. If I can determine where it's leaking from and if that location is fairly accessible then I will try to fix it for sure but if I have to disassemble the whole transfer case to change one seal then I'll try White Shepherd.
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  #38  
Old October 7th, 2009, 02:27 AM
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Mike Hammond
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There are really only 6 places for a transfer box to leak - either (or both) output shafts the rectangular inspection plate at the bottom, the round plate at the back, the input shaft and the joint between the main housing and the front output housing. Oh and any cracks/holes in the casing where rocks have tried to get in or cogs have tried to get out. The only really difficult ones to fix are the input seal and the joint between the main casing and the front output housing.
Output seals can leak on high milage examples because the seal wears a groove in the flange it seals against.
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  #39  
Old October 7th, 2009, 01:13 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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Novice question. Take a look at the attached image. It looks like the leak is coming from the front of the transfer case. What is that area called?
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  #40  
Old October 7th, 2009, 11:22 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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The location of the leak in the picture above is that considered to be the joint between the main casing and the front output housing? Is it hard to fix?
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