Ideas for affixing Troy Smith toolboxes - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old July 31st, 2009, 06:50 PM
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Christopher Giles
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Lightbulb Ideas for affixing Troy Smith toolboxes

Well, I have had a pair of Troy Smith toolboxes for almost two years. I'm taking my hard top off and I'm finally going to put them in the truck. Side note: the boxes are amazing and fit perfectly!

What is my best method for affixing them? Drill the wheel wells? Do you go through the wheel well "strengtheners" I see from below where I assume seats mount? Should I use stainless hardware? Do they need some sort of grommet where the hardware goes through the tub (if that's the chosen method for affixing them)?

Other better methods?

I have the Land Rover rubber tub liner in. The gentleman before me seems to have "stuck" it down somehow and getting it up seems messy.

Thanks in advance everyone.
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  #2  
Old July 31st, 2009, 08:35 PM
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Scott
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Are you mounting them permanently or temporarily? If you are permanently mounting them, I would mount them through the floor with a rounded bolt head underneath and the nuts in the box.

The rubber matte was glued down from the factory, so if the PO installed it, he would have glued it down.
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Old July 31st, 2009, 09:56 PM
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Kevin Buckley
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Use galvanized washers against the tub and grade 8 hardware for corrosion resistance, SS is actually more reactive with aluminum that grade 8.
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  #4  
Old July 31st, 2009, 10:22 PM
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Charles Galpin
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First, shame on you! Ok, I have one that I have been meaning to put in the 110 for almost a year now

You will need to drill holes in the wheel wells. It's not as bad as it seems. I just bolted mine in with large washers to spread the load on my D90, but since then have gotten rivnuts and they are perfect for this. You install them with a tool that works very much like a pop riveter, but leaves a thread insert in the hole. They are often called nutserts too I believe.

hth
charles
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Old August 1st, 2009, 08:28 AM
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Christopher Giles
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I know. I know. I have been more than remiss!

I have been looking on McMaster-Carr at rivet nuts. Did you use aluminum rivet nuts and Grade 8 hardware? (see link below)

http://www.mcmaster.com/#98560a177/=2zxrb2


The also have a Zinc Yellow Chromate Plated rivet nut that has an integral seal (see link below). This thought this might be nice to keep crap out of the hole, etc. Will I run into a galvanic reaction between the aluminum and the zinc yellow chromate plated?

http://www.mcmaster.com/#=2zxs7a

Lastly, does anyone know many millimeters thick the skin of the tub is? Should I go through the seat rail mounts?

Thanks in advance!
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Old August 1st, 2009, 12:41 PM
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Charles Galpin
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I would use the aluminum rivet nuts. The link to the ones with the seal doesnt show it, so not sure what to say about it other than with a bolt in the hole it probably doesn't need it.

The aluminum is not very thick but the forces are mostly lateral unless you roll the truck. If you ware worried, find washers with an inner diameter the same as the outer diameter of the rivet nut and sandwich it in when you install the rivet nuts.

hth
charles
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