I think I fried my Detroit locker - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old April 30th, 2010, 06:04 PM
RickM
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Rick Mabus
95 D-90 ST
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I think I fried my Detroit locker

Hello all. I need some help. I have a detroit locker in the rear diff of my truck. I was driving today and yesterday and at first over bumps it sounded like my rear door was loose, and mostly on the right side. I drove some more and he feeling got worse and a bad clunking noise was noticeable even on smooth roads. Got home, jacked up my truck on each side with the truck in first. Spun the wheel and it would catch and hold. Spin the wheel the other way and it would not catch and It would spin freely. Keep in mind the wheel on the other side was on the ground. Switched sides and same story. I have drained my diff lube and it looks pretty good. Did I fry my detroit locker? If so how hard and what special tools do I need to replace a detroit locker or any third member for that matter?

Thanks.
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  #2  
Old April 30th, 2010, 08:22 PM
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Don Lang
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normal operation
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85 exmod 110 rhd 300tdi
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  #3  
Old April 30th, 2010, 08:51 PM
RickM
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OK, Call me an idiot

Alright. Call me and idiot but are you saying that my rear diff should allow the wheels to spin independently of each other. I thought that was the beauty of the a locking diff. Any way if that might be the case does it sound then like I have a wheel bearing going out, or a broken axle. The sounds and smoothness of ride are definitely impacted by what is happening. Keep in mind I left the rover axles in when I went with the detriot rather than putting in a pair of the Great Basin ones!

------ Follow up post added April 30th, 2010 07:09 PM ------

New thought. I put my truck on jack stands and started messing with stuff. The truck accelerates just fine and drives pretty normal most of the time and this clunk/pop sounds is not really consistent. The one thing that could be effecting this in my mind that I accidentally started thinking about is the Ebrake. Is it tranny driven? Drive shaft driven? Would it be possible that it is hanging up and that is why I am getting this odd sound and feeling? Case and point. Driving along thought maybe something was wrong. Pulled the brake, pulled over and took a look. Same problem. Went to the bank, pulled brake drove home, noticed it was better. Pulled in the driveway, dropped some stuff off, pulled back out and then it was way worse and I drove home. Every time the brake was engaged and depressed.
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  #4  
Old May 1st, 2010, 10:34 AM
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Chris Davis
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Super easy to check if it is the brake. 9/16" wrench. One big screwdriver. 30 minutes.
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Old May 1st, 2010, 10:40 AM
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John B.
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The wheel should be able to spine forwards in your test with a slight clicking. It should not be able to spin backwards.
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Old May 1st, 2010, 01:56 PM
RickM
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Rick Mabus
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I have everything apart now!!

Well I have the driveshaft off the truck to the rear diff now and I am starting to work on getting the brake drum off. I am wondering though if it would be a good idea for me to pull the truck off the jacks and drive it gently towards some bumps to see if the popping/rubbing/rough ride is gone. If it is gone then it is a rear axle related issue right? If not then it must might be in the brakes right? By the way, drained the rear diff lube to re-lube. It was a little low but still had a lot in there. Did not see any metals coming out in the fluid. Should that tell me something?

------ Follow up post added May 1st, 2010 01:05 PM ------

One other thing. I did the wheel test with the drive shaft off the axle and had my wife hold one side while I spun the other. Slight clicking apparently just fine. Had her spin her tire and I held the other side and it gave a slight clicking as well. Just fine there. It would appear to me that the rear axle as a whole is fine unless its a wheel bearing.
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  #7  
Old May 1st, 2010, 04:05 PM
RickM
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Rick Mabus
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Drove it. Clunking still there

Drive the truck with diff lock on and it was still clunking and almost lurching from the rear end, Going to pull the axles and see if that is it then pull the diff cap.

------ Follow up post added May 1st, 2010 04:08 PM ------

I think I know what it is. I pulled the axles. Clean as a whistle. I was looking at my truck a bit just puzzled as it appears that the parking brake is good, the Detroit Diff appears to check out at least from the outside spin test. The axles are clean and not broken. Splines look good. Drive shaft is fine.

Here is what it all comes down to. All of this appears to be coming from the right passenger side. i pulled the axle and started peaking into the wheel assembly further. Upon further review it looks as if a bunch of rust and crap is sitting on the rear assembly. I took the brake rotor and pushed and pulled in the 12 6 positions and I got a little play. Went to the other side and no play. Looks clean as can be.

How hard is it to change a wheel bearing?

I am posting all this by the way because I am getting comfortable working on my rig and I am hoping this helps others diagnose issues as well!
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  #8  
Old May 1st, 2010, 06:48 PM
RickM
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Wheel Bearing Replacement instruction

Anyone know of a thread regarding instruction on replacing a wheel bearing?
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  #9  
Old May 2nd, 2010, 12:10 AM
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Charles Galpin
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It doesn't necessarily need replacing, just tightening. When you pulled you axles you should have seen everything you need to adjust them but you'll need a big socket (most of the roverparts places sell them). You should see a large nut, a locking tab, then another large nut. Remove the outer nut and bend the tabs straight on the locking tab and remove it too. You can then tighten the inner nut. One way to get it set correctly is tighten with force and spin the wheel to make sure the bearing is seated well. Then loosen and hand tighten, then back off a half turn. Then put the locking tab back on, and tighten the outer nut nice and tight. If the bearing look like they need grease you can re-pack them, but try tightening them first.
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