I know aluminum and steel don't mix....soooo??? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old May 24th, 2015, 10:52 PM
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Stephen LeBlanc
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I know aluminum and steel don't mix....soooo???

Hi all. So I just bought this replacement
panel for my footwell.


004A YRM Land Rover Defender Footwell Repair Panel n/s


I just noticed it's steel. Aren't their aluminum panels in that area? If they touch, we are going to have a problem. So how do I deal with that? Suggestions?


Thanks in advance!!
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  #2  
Old May 24th, 2015, 10:56 PM
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The bulkhead including the footwells are steel so you should be good to go. The floor panels are aluminum which may be throwing you off. Typically the two are isolated by a foam rubber strip.
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  #3  
Old May 24th, 2015, 10:57 PM
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I assume your replacing the footwell due to rust ?
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  #4  
Old May 24th, 2015, 11:56 PM
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Stephen LeBlanc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilboro View Post
The bulkhead including the footwells are steel so you should be good to go. The floor panels are aluminum which may be throwing you off. Typically the two are isolated by a foam rubber strip.


Thanks William! I'll be sure to isolate it with a foam rubber strip.

------ Follow up post added May 24th, 2015 11:57 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Landy_Andy View Post
I assume your replacing the footwell due to rust ?

Yes. Rust holes under the pedals big enough to put my hand through.
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  #5  
Old May 24th, 2015, 11:58 PM
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William Ficner
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Just make sure whatever you use doesn't hold water. You can buy weatherstripping that is closed cell.
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  #6  
Old May 26th, 2015, 09:11 PM
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I find it a little irritating that the floors themselves hold water and there are no plugs to remove.

But yes.. the bulkhead and attached materials are steel. and the flat screwed on floor panels are aluminum. use a sealant between them and you are free of worry or just replace them every 10 years or so.

I don't know where it is that these things corrode so badly. I've had a few rovers of no less than 35 years old (save the current) and no noticeable electrolysis. Then I see pix on the web of defenders eaten away. I wonder what it is that accelerates the rot? I do tend to spray my vehicles down top and bottom with a pressure washer multiple times a year.
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  #7  
Old May 29th, 2015, 06:52 AM
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solution: don't use weatherstripping on the floor of the truck. after doing a full repaint of my truck, i removed all...and i mean all...weatherstripping on the floor of my truck and have not regretted it.
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  #8  
Old May 29th, 2015, 08:44 AM
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Don Bunnell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
solution: don't use weatherstripping on the floor of the truck. after doing a full repaint of my truck, i removed all...and i mean all...weatherstripping on the floor of my truck and have not regretted it.
Interesting - So you just have panel to panel now? Any change in noise or vibration?
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  #9  
Old May 29th, 2015, 10:03 AM
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Yes, panel to panel. I have not measured any change in vibration (there is none) or noise (there is and always has been a lot.)

IMHO, the fasteners should kill the panel vibration, not the weatherstripping.
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Old May 29th, 2015, 10:09 AM
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Don Bunnell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Yes, panel to panel. I have not measured any change in vibration (there is none) or noise (there is and always has been a lot.) IMHO, the fasteners should kill the panel vibration, not the weatherstripping.
I have my floors Line-X'd and was worried about where the weatherstripping would go. I'm just going to lay them to each other now.
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  #11  
Old May 29th, 2015, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
solution: don't use weatherstripping on the floor of the truck. after doing a full repaint of my truck, i removed all...and i mean all...weatherstripping on the floor of my truck and have not regretted it.
Ed - What kind of paint did you use on the floor panels and how many years has it been since the respray?
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  #12  
Old May 29th, 2015, 11:00 AM
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The whole truck:

Layer 1: Southern Polyurethanes two-part epoxy
Layer 2: Sherwin Williams Zermatt Silver basecoat
Layer 3: Southern Polyurethanes two-part urethane, three to five coats (depending on the part)

Resprayed in summer 2013, so two years.

If you don't put a floor mat on your floor panels, your shoes will wear through the paint quickly. So...use a floor mat.
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  #13  
Old May 29th, 2015, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
I have my floors Line-X'd and was worried about where the weatherstripping would go. I'm just going to lay them to each other now.
I like it. I think the line-x'd floor panels will be superior to floor panels that have simply been painted as they see a lot of wear. The upside is that you can literally hose the floors clean and have no fear of holding water/salt/grime. It all just flows out.
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  #14  
Old May 29th, 2015, 01:48 PM
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Don Bunnell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
I like it. I think the line-x'd floor panels will be superior to floor panels that have simply been painted as they see a lot of wear. The upside is that you can literally hose the floors clean and have no fear of holding water/salt/grime. It all just flows out.
That's my thinking - it is for a ST build and I want to keep things simple and clean and not have to use a rubber mat (I feel those keep a lot of moisture in). And if the Line-X wears out on the floors - without a rubber mat or seals they can be "popped out" and recovered pretty easily.

I am also having the aluminum part of the seatbox line-x'd as well. Like you said just hose out the interior - kind of like a boat.
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