I hate hood cables - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old July 24th, 2011, 02:26 AM
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I hate hood cables

I just ordered a series hood latch from Ike at pangolin.

I will never deal with this again. Since I removed the AC, it seems ok.
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  #2  
Old July 24th, 2011, 08:54 AM
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SO you are putting something a la jeep/FJ 40 to hold the hood down on your truck? Ive never had hood cable issues and I open mine a lot...
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  #3  
Old July 24th, 2011, 12:48 PM
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whew...
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  #4  
Old July 24th, 2011, 03:56 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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I have the military latches and they're great. With the upgraded intercooler there was no room for the hood cable assembly.
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  #5  
Old July 24th, 2011, 04:20 PM
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Tom Rowe
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RDS has the Series bonnet latch for $85, PN 332401

You may also want to consider a bonnet lock hasp, PN 332969
http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php?xProd=79337
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  #6  
Old July 25th, 2011, 04:30 PM
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Yup....hood release cable and fuel fill hoses. The 2 items it seems every Defender that comes in the shop either needs or has new installed recently (and sometimes these are bad)!
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new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

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  #7  
Old August 12th, 2011, 06:33 PM
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Ok, so this does not work well as the black panel is different between the early trucks and the NAS trucks with the hood cable. I am back to a piece of wire sticking out of the grill.
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  #8  
Old August 13th, 2011, 09:57 PM
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Will the one you bought work with an early ROW 110? I have been thinking about doing this on my 86.
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  #9  
Old August 14th, 2011, 02:22 AM
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I think if you have the early style slam panel MTC7170, it will work with the series style bonnet release latch. It's listed on lrseries to fit Land Rover Series 3 stage 1 V8 and Defender to vin LA739975.
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  #10  
Old August 14th, 2011, 03:29 AM
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Matthew Scanlon
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Ron, if you need some inspiration I'll bring my 84 D90 over for you to look at, I love not having cables
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  #11  
Old August 14th, 2011, 02:29 PM
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Matt,

You are welcome to stop by any time. I have been meaning to see your truck. My email is my user name on D-90 at yahoo

It looks like I need a slam panel or two.

Thanks,

Ron
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  #12  
Old May 2nd, 2012, 10:30 AM
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resurrection. I have a standard batch latch w cable, but I have also the external military bonnet latches to keep the bonnet down. The only reason I have retained the cable is for security to keep others from lifting my bonnet in questionable areas. I would really like to eliminate the cable all together.

My question is, if I purchase and install the early bonnet lock (RTC3036), is that all I need to get rid of it? Is it as simple as drilling a hole in the breakfast and removing the cable? If so, where do I drill exactly?
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  #13  
Old May 2nd, 2012, 12:33 PM
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My early latch didn't work well.with my big intercooler either. I just bent it up out of the way. Works great
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  #14  
Old August 1st, 2017, 12:18 AM
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Len Bruffett
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I was putting my truck together after painting the hood and front fenders off the truck. I re inserted the hood release cable back into the pin of the hood latch, tightened the set screw and made sure the hood catch opened when I used the hood release handle. I closed the hood - re pulled on the hood release handle and it would not release the hood. I pulled on the cable by hand at the front of the truck and the hood opened. A closer inspection of the cable housing at the bulkhead fitting showed that the "crimp" holding the cable housing failed and I couldn't put it back in. After reading the different ideas for a resolution I decided to try a slightly different hood cable replacement. I cut a 1 inch piece of extruded 90 degree angle aluminum and attached a curved motorcycle accelerator cable housing (normally attached to the throttle controls for motor cycles). I drilled a small hole in the top the radiator frame to hold the device with a hardened hex head cap screw.I tightened the device with one end pointed to the hood release pin and the other end pointed down and out to the front of the radiator. I took a section of the hood cable attached one end to the hood release pin and the other drawn through and out the other end of the device. I then ran the cable around a nylon rope thimble and swedged the cable around the thimble. This serves as a 1 finger handle - 1 short tug on the cable and the hood is released. I have a small plastic hook on the inside of my grill that holds the cable from flopping round (not Pictured)
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  #15  
Old August 1st, 2017, 01:14 AM
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Another option to eliminate the cable and still be able to LOCK the hood.....


https://youtu.be/xVd1LVBn_08


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  #16  
Old August 1st, 2017, 01:45 AM
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Mark: Interesting idea. I planned on going military with mine but it didn't happen.

http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product...CH-BONNET.html

No security with my idea. None.
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  #17  
Old August 1st, 2017, 08:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MCMLXIX View Post
Another option to eliminate the cable and still be able to LOCK the hood.....


https://youtu.be/xVd1LVBn_08
A 4+ hour install time? I'll stick with my $5 rubber draw latches.




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  #18  
Old August 1st, 2017, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
I just ordered a series hood latch from Ike at pangolin.

I will never deal with this again. Since I removed the AC, it seems ok.
Ike is good people!

The front panel is different from the manual lever opening front panel.
I have the same issue and am looking at modifying the front panel or the manual latch on a 1998 110.
The "spear head" on the hood is also a different size when compared to the later cable pull.


Starting sometime around 1987, Land Rover switched to a cable pull opening with a cheap plastic T-handle pull attached to a cable for the hood (Bonnet) opening.
The issue is the sides of the handle break off with any real force.

Sometime around 1998-1999, Rover went to a leaver you pull out which is a vast improvement, but still no substitute for the good old manual lever.
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  #19  
Old August 1st, 2017, 10:58 AM
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so where would I get the standard internal release used on the MOD trucks? my 110, the lever doesn't "reset" meaning everytime i want to close the hood - I have to manually hold the lever up, so it clears. it holds fine, releases fine, but doesn't stay "open" for the closing?

BTW, mine doesn't look anything like this http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product...CH-BONNET.html

it's more like the standard underhood "rocker " setup
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  #20  
Old August 1st, 2017, 11:20 AM
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The "spear head" on the bonnet pushes through the lever, so there is no need to open the hood catch when you close the hood.

I've only seen the manual release pictured once on a late MOD 110.
From the looks of it, think it is a manual lever option that fits the later cable release front panel.
Now that's a good find, if this theory is true (that it does in fact fit the later cable release front panel).
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