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  #1  
Old August 21st, 2016, 10:44 AM
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Ed
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I Did It...With Your Help

Well, I just picked-up my Defender at Long Beach the other day. Couldn't have done it without this website and the help of the members on this great forum. Big thanks to Uncle Douglas and RDAVISINVA, as they provided sage advice and encouragement when the chips were down and I was swapping the 300 TDi for an old 2.5 NA. By the way, the 300 TDI is sitting crated in my garage after arriving with our household goods.

Collecting my thoughts on way-ahead. I don't have much time to work on the truck right now, as the job is quite consuming, but maybe ya'll could help me with the sequence.

1. Wiring behind the instrument cluster/dash is suspect. Worried it will catch fire and destroy my project before I start.
2. Bulkhead has rust. Not too bad yet. I'm stationed in AZ now, so it probably won't get much worse in the next two years.
3. 2.5 NA is rough and hardly starts. Blow-by is significant and oil is coming out of the dipstick.
4. Engine needs swapping back to 300. Fortunately, I left the 300 frame mounts in-situ, so it should be an easy swap.
5. Trans synchros are worn, want to get a new Ashcroft tranny.
6. xfr case leaks and I'd like to go to a 1.2.

So, given I don't have a whole lot of time, should I:
1. Swap the engine and deal with the other stuff later, or
2. Remove bulkhead and repair, redo wiring, replace 2.5 w/300, replace trans, replace xfr at same time to reduce overall time to get vehicle in decent condition -- will most likely need to find a mech to help
3. Maybe just engine, tranny and wiring?

Anyone know of a Land Rover shop in Southeast AZ?

Thanks again for all your help.
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  #2  
Old August 21st, 2016, 10:53 AM
waveslayer
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Bryan Hadley
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From my little experience so far with some engine troubles on my new 110 with a 200 tdi. Most shops can work on it, simple motors. I would go with the better 300tdi. Parts are easy to get in the UK, you just have to be patient and wait for them. We got a parts list needed from a shop and we ordered all the parts. Saved me a lot, I mean a lot of money doing it that way.

Isn't the 300tdi superior than the 2.5?

My wife thinks I only have 3 guns
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  #3  
Old August 21st, 2016, 11:21 AM
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I think you have to decide: Do you want a rolling project or a completely done truck?
If you have limited time and want to enjoy the truck as much as you can, then just fix the wiring and swap the engine (also stop any current rust from growing). Everything else can be addressed as time allows.

If you want a complete no fuss truck. Tear it down and do everything right the first time and then you have don't have to worry about it or keep tinkering with it.

I would swap the engine and fix any safety hazards or potential things that could damage your rig and also look into getting A/C
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  #4  
Old August 21st, 2016, 11:27 AM
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1. Wiring behind the instrument cluster/dash is suspect. Worried it will catch fire and destroy my project before I start.
Unlikely - unless the wiring was prior owner hack job. feel free to clean it up and replace/repair any hardened or cracked wiring
2. Bulkhead has rust. Not too bad yet. I'm stationed in AZ now, so it probably won't get much worse in the next two years.
find the rust, remove the rust, treat the surrounding metal, patch as needed and plan to rebuild or replace bulkhead at some later time
3. 2.5 NA is rough and hardly starts. Blow-by is significant and oil is coming out of the dipstick.
test the compression, may be head gasket, may be more...
4. Engine needs swapping back to 300. Fortunately, I left the 300 frame mounts in-situ, so it should be an easy swap.
1/4 of the way there!
5. Trans synchros are worn, want to get a new Ashcroft tranny.
a good rebuild will go a long way
6. xfr case leaks and I'd like to go to a 1.2.
why the 1.2? If you plan on using the truck for road work 90% of the time I suppose it would be a worthwhile swap, but you will still only be fast enough to keep from getting run down on I17... Besides behind a 300tdi the 1.4 works for most everything - if you want more freeway speed look into a roverdrive

So, given I don't have a whole lot of time, should I:
1. Swap the engine and deal with the other stuff later, or
yes - why spend time addressing the 2.5 when you have a solution already?
2. Remove bulkhead and repair, redo wiring, replace 2.5 w/300, replace trans, replace xfr at same time to reduce overall time to get vehicle in decent condition -- will most likely need to find a mech to help
yes - if you don't have the time to DIY the labor hours are deep and the cost can be significant - or you have a year of weekends ahead of you
3. Maybe just engine, tranny and wiring?
YES - body can be nursed along - the bulkhead is easiest to do when the truck is apart, but you are not planning a frame swap so the engine/trans can be done with body in place. See above for interim bulkhead repairs and get the priority items addressed in order of importance; stopping, steering, engine, transmission, driveline, electrical, and all the other stuff after those items are resolved
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  #5  
Old August 21st, 2016, 11:31 AM
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The wiring behind my instrument cluster scares me too, looks like a rats nest in there.
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  #6  
Old August 21st, 2016, 11:51 AM
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Mike & Carrie Wendt
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In my rarely humble opinion, your first project is searching for other Rover people in your area. If you are real lucky, you will have a group that could compently change your engine in a long weekend.

On which side is the bulkhead rust? If the outside, plan to address during the engine change.

I'm a big fan of swapping in a Discovery 1.2 transfer case. My MoD 90 will do 75mph on level ground with the 1.2. Several threads here about the few simple changes. Change the input and output seals at that time.

Mike & Carrie
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  #7  
Old August 21st, 2016, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mybluett View Post
6. xfr case leaks and I'd like to go to a 1.2.
why the 1.2? If you plan on using the truck for road work 90% of the time I suppose it would be a worthwhile swap, but you will still only be fast enough to keep from getting run down on I17... Besides behind a 300tdi the 1.4 works for most everything - if you want more freeway speed look into a roverdrive
I vote for this ^

I liked the 1.2 okay while in Germany, but wasn't fond of it when I got to the States. The gears seemed too far apart for in town driving and I felt like I was either revving it out or bogging the engine. On hills it felt like I was driving a big rig. Recently I swapped it out for a 1.4/Roamerdrive combo and really love how it's given the truck a lighter, sportier feel.
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  #8  
Old August 21st, 2016, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CMSgt Bo View Post
I vote for this ^

I liked the 1.2 okay while in Germany, but wasn't fond of it when I got to the States. The gears seemed too far apart for in town driving and I felt like I was either revving it out or bogging the engine. On hills it felt like I was driving a big rig. Recently I swapped it out for a 1.4/Roamerdrive combo and really love how it's given the truck a lighter, sportier feel.
Thanks, Bo. Was thinking the 1.2 swap would fix my leak issues too, at least for a while, but I probably just need to replace the seals and leave well enough alone. Will look into the RoamerDrive.

isn't there something about driveline slack, though? It's been so long since I've had the 300 in it, I can't remember how bad mine was, but I think it was there. Seems xfr case from Ashcroft are relatively inexpensive.

BTW -- your posts have helped tremendously too. If memory serves, you did the same thing that I just did. Thanks for your advice over the last year.

------ Follow up post added August 22nd, 2016 03:00 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by waveslayer View Post
From my little experience so far with some engine troubles on my new 110 with a 200 tdi. Most shops can work on it, simple motors. I would go with the better 300tdi. Parts are easy to get in the UK, you just have to be patient and wait for them. We got a parts list needed from a shop and we ordered all the parts. Saved me a lot, I mean a lot of money doing it that way.

Isn't the 300tdi superior than the 2.5?

My wife thinks I only have 3 guns
300 TDI is complete and ready to drop in. As a matter of fact, I had to pull it out and install the ailing 2.5 NA in order to import it. Just have to find time to drop it in now...

I'm leaning towards getting the 300 tdi in it as soon as possible. Any suggestions on what to do with the 2.5 when I clean-jerk it out? The head was rebuilt recently and the injection pump is brand new. Just need to rebuild the bottom end. Doubt I would recoup my costs, though. Maybe just sell the DPI since it has about 20 miles on it and scrap the rest?

------ Follow up post added August 22nd, 2016 03:02 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by GuamPilot View Post
In my rarely humble opinion, your first project is searching for other Rover people in your area. If you are real lucky, you will have a group that could compently change your engine in a long weekend.

On which side is the bulkhead rust? If the outside, plan to address during the engine change.

I'm a big fan of swapping in a Discovery 1.2 transfer case. My MoD 90 will do 75mph on level ground with the 1.2. Several threads here about the few simple changes. Change the input and output seals at that time.

Mike & Carrie
That's a great idea. Someone from AZ just PM'd me and oriented me to a group of facebook that may help. Thanks
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  #9  
Old August 21st, 2016, 08:30 PM
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Mike & Carrie Wendt
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Quote:
The head was rebuilt recently and the injection pump is brand new. Just need to rebuild the bottom end. Doubt I would recoup my costs, though. Maybe just sell the DPI since it has about 20 miles on it and scrap the rest?
Put it up for sale here (free listing) and see if anyone bites.

Since I plan to keep my 2.5NA, I'd be very interesting in your IP.

Mike & Carrie
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  #10  
Old November 18th, 2016, 12:47 AM
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Ed
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Okay, no luck finding a Land Rover club or mechanic to work on a LR in the Sierra Vista, AZ area.

Closest towns are Tucson (1.5 hours)and Phoenix (3.5 hours). Anyone know of a competent mechanic that can work engine, driveline and body work in those towns/surrounding area?

Work is crazy, so I've got just enough time to drive it onto a trailer and get it to a shop that will do all the work. I'd rather pay the $$ and have fun with the truck (on my 5 min commute) than to look at it sitting there waiting for me to work on it after I get home from at 9:00 p.m.

Also -- a local machine shop quoted $2,000 to "rebuild" the 300 Tdi. I just asked him to look it over for obvious wear. It ran fine with only a bit of smoke when cold. Estimate seems high for a once-over, but he talked about bearings and valve grinding and....

Any advice is appreciated.
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  #11  
Old November 18th, 2016, 11:23 AM
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Check with JavelinaDave here on the forum. He lives in the PHO metro area.
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  #12  
Old November 18th, 2016, 03:35 PM
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Sent you a Private Message here in the forum with more leads.
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  #13  
Old November 18th, 2016, 04:18 PM
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The best guy around you is Rob in Albuquerque, NM...............
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  #14  
Old November 18th, 2016, 04:34 PM
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Ed,

Were you on the informal NIPR mail list in Stuttgart? I think I remember the truck.

Good to see you are moving forward with it.

And Sierra Vista? Lol.
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  #15  
Old November 18th, 2016, 04:59 PM
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Since you are AZ, I'd put rust repair at the bottom of the list.

Do trucks even rust in the southwest??
I think they just bake in the sun!





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  #16  
Old November 18th, 2016, 10:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KGH View Post
Ed,

Were you on the informal NIPR mail list in Stuttgart? I think I remember the truck.

Good to see you are moving forward with it.

And Sierra Vista? Lol.
I was in Wiesbaden, but spent a lot of time in Stuttgart -- one of my BNs was located there. I wasn't on the NIPR mail list.

I couldn't believe I got orders for Ft Huachuca, but I can honestly say, it's one of the nicer places I've been stationed, and closer to home than I've ever been in 24 years. Incredible weather. At a mile high, it's not hot.
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  #17  
Old January 24th, 2017, 10:41 PM
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I dorked this up. I ordered a mainshaft for the transmission and a input gear for the transfer case. I was convinced that the clunk/lash was the typical spline ware. Well, went down to the tranny shop today and what do I see -- splines show no signs of wear I just spent about $300 in parts I didn't need.

However, when turning the brake drum while holding the half-shaft coupler, there is a lot of lash in the transfer case. The tranny guy said that was probably the lash I was feeling while driving.

Does this make sense? If so, what is worn in xfr case that I'll need to replace?

Thanks
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