I am dropping the fuel tank and I have a couple of questions, help - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 13th, 2005, 01:46 PM
QUEST
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Steven Gimbel
1994 D90
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I am dropping the fuel tank and I have a couple of questions, help

Hi All;

Do I have to take off my spare tire and carrier to drop my fuel tank like my repair manual states?

Is the tank going to come down with the skid plate and if so is there a way to use tie down to hold it up why I disconnect things?

It did not state when I disconnect the fill hose for the fuel and how?

Is there a drain plug for the fuel and if so where is it and at what stage can I get to it?

THANX,

Steven
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  #2  
Old March 13th, 2005, 02:01 PM
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Jim Cheney
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No drain plug sorry. I suggest you siphon what you can.

Do dont have to take off the tire carrier unless you plan on taking off the rear bumper. The bumper does not have to come off to get the skid plate off, but a couple of the fasteners are harder to access.

The tank will drop with the plate. You can always try to rig it up with some straps, but if its drained, it wont be much of a problem.

I couldnt disconnect the filler hose without cutting it. It is a huge PITA to pull the filler through the gasket on the body, so I'd just buy a new filler neck and vent tube. I bought some nicer synthetic stuff for the vent hose.

Good luck...
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Old March 13th, 2005, 03:51 PM
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Steven Gimbel
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OK, how do I disconnect the pipe to the expansion tank it has a green stripe on the hose?

THANX,
STEVEN DEEP INSIDE
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  #4  
Old March 15th, 2005, 09:38 AM
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Barry O'Mahony
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QUEST
OK, how do I disconnect the pipe to the expansion tank it has a green stripe on the hose?

THANX,
STEVEN DEEP INSIDE
There's a tool for doing it. These connectors are pretty common in the UK. There are two little holes on the connector that the tool presses in to, which releases the connector.
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  #5  
Old January 7th, 2007, 06:40 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Can you elaborate on this? I tried pushing a nail head into both holes but can't get it to release. I'd like to get the connector to release instead of cutting the tubing.

thanks
charles
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  #6  
Old July 7th, 2009, 11:37 AM
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Todd Kendrick
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I am also trying to get this green connector loose so I can drop the tank to hopefully fix a leaky smelly tank. Manual says we need a special tool. What is the trick?
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  #7  
Old July 7th, 2009, 12:02 PM
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I think it is like a pair of chinese handcuffs. If you pull on the tube, it will never come off. If I recall correctly, you need to push in on the tube and green piece at the same time, then slowly pull out on the green piece. That probably sounds funky, but it works. I think.
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Old July 7th, 2009, 04:18 PM
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Bill Lewis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taoseno
I am also trying to get this green connector loose so I can drop the tank to hopefully fix a leaky smelly tank. Manual says we need a special tool. What is the trick?

What do you think your problem is here, the valves? Mine occasionally has this smell, but I wasnt sure what it might be. Just curious.

bill

Edit: I meant to ask if anyone knows where to get that tool. I Have successfully gotten that connector loose several times, but would rather not push my luck and end up breaking it next time.
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  #9  
Old July 7th, 2009, 04:25 PM
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Todd Kendrick
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Cool

Ummm no the valves are a different problem. I suspect I have a leak in my fuel tank as I occasionally have gas dripping out off road when full and the obvious smell of gas. I can see that the leak is from the top of the tank; but I have to drop it all the way to able to get to it good enough to see the exact cause. I suspect it is split and will have to be welded. Will see tonight and report back.
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  #10  
Old July 7th, 2009, 08:35 PM
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Are you guys sure its not the vent hose leaking? Its a common problem and it splits where it comes out of the chassis brace and bends upwards.
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  #11  
Old July 7th, 2009, 08:41 PM
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x2 what JimC said. Vent hose.
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  #12  
Old July 9th, 2009, 11:11 AM
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Todd Kendrick
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OK so I got the tank out and the fuel leak is not real obvious. The vent hose looks fine the thing I am questioning is one of the fuel lines going into the fuel pump. Looks to be corroded so I think that is where the leak is. The stains on the tank say it is coming from the fuel pump area somewhere. I am going to go ahead and replace the vent hose and the two fuel lines. Question is should I go ahead and replace the fuel pump and gasket as well? This is the original fuel pump that was in the truck when I bought it new in 1995. Should I get the NAPA pump? Thanks for any help much appreciated.
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  #13  
Old July 9th, 2009, 11:44 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Replacing the whole pump a$$embly has the benefit of new hardware where the lines connect if you suspect the leak is at the connections. Otherwise the NAPA pump is far more cost effective.

While you have it undone, would you mind reminding me what the electrical connectors look like? I'm chasing an electrical gremlin related to fuel and one of my concerns are the connectors at the pump.
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  #14  
Old July 9th, 2009, 03:56 PM
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Bill Lewis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taoseno
. The vent hose looks fine the thing I am questioning is one of the fuel lines going into the fuel pump. Looks to be corroded so I think that is where the leak is.
I think I confused you on the valves thing. I meant that tank vents that might be leaking causing the odor but it sounds like you can tell you have some kind of leak on top.

I replaced my pump with the Carter(?) version that was in the parts list. I could not get the fuel lines that were inside the pump assembly loose and ended up having to cut them. That meant I had to find that same hose that was gasoline immersible. Something like this: http://cgi.ebay.com.sg/5-16-SUBMERSI...mZ160300020894. You may not have that problem if you change the pump. I had to order mine from napa and it was 25.00 for 12" and used FI clamps to keep it all in place.

If you are going to replace the external flexi lines, do you know what the part numbers for those are or what they are called? I have searched but can't find them on parts sites.

l8r,
bill
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  #15  
Old July 9th, 2009, 04:42 PM
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I just did this. Got the pump from Eric at Atlantic British.
It turns into a MIGHT AS WELL.
since you dropped the tank MIGHT AS WELL get a new skid plate, MIGHT AS WELL sand blast and paint the cage parts, MIGHT AS WELL take off the rear bumper sand blast and paint, MIGHT AS WELL sand and paint the rear cross member, MIGHT AS WELL replace the grade 8 bolts that hold the cage parts and bumper...........
MIGHT AS WELL
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  #16  
Old July 9th, 2009, 04:52 PM
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Charles Galpin
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lol. I just did the same!
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  #17  
Old July 10th, 2009, 11:31 AM
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Todd Kendrick
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Well I got the fuel pump retaining ring off and it was not on straight at all. Seems very easy to crossthread. I dont know if that is where my leak was or not but could be. I got the parts to build the new fuel lines today but have not assembled yet. Will post pics when I do. Also replacing vent hose.

Bill now I understand what you meant and yes that could be the problem. Have you replaced those gaskets on the tank vents?

CGalpin what parts of the electrical do you want to see? Inside the pump?

So I go the NAPA fuel pump yesterday and am not real sure how to make it work. Do I need to cut off the electrical connection inside the pump? Any tips appreciated.

Anyone done an external fuel pump?
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  #18  
Old July 10th, 2009, 12:15 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Just the outside electrical connectors.

I haven't done it myself but I believe you do have to cut/splice the connectors inside.

charles
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  #19  
Old July 10th, 2009, 04:22 PM
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Dan Berry
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I just replaced my pump with the NAPA replacement. Need to cut the power/gnd and solder the new connector in. The bad news is the check valve in my new pump doesn't work. Meaning the fuel pressure bleeds down as soon as the pump shuts off, makes for hard starts.. grrr

I'm thinking external, cause I don't want to have to drop the tank a third time. I would replace the pump inside the tank with a hose that goes to the bottom. And using the connections where the stock fuel filter is to tap in with a pre-filter---pump--post filter. Or possibly using the tank connections and making the same filter-pump setup then soft line to the original filter location.

Any way, here's the pump I've been considering- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AEI-11109/

It should be enough for anything I would ever through at the motor HP wise. Well unless I turbo the motor.
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  #20  
Old July 10th, 2009, 08:28 PM
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Bill Lewis
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I am with you on putting an external on, I just couldn't decide how to go about it so put the Napa in. If you go that way, I would be interested in how it goes and would most likely follow you.
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