I am dropping the fuel tank and I have a couple of questions, help - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old September 24th, 2009, 03:18 PM
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Don Bunnell
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Just got done swapping the fuel pump. PITA job but feels good that it's done (well at least the fuel pump). That green connector was giving me fits so I looked to the right and noticed a easy disconnector and took the whole overflow tank out. The attached pic is the tank going back in.

I had ton of clay deposited all around the ring/top of the pump and took a while to clean everything up nicely. End up draining the tank completely so I could make sure no debri got in.

Snapped 5 bolts total between the sway bar, tank holder and bumper - that took a long time to drill, hammer, and tap it out. If I was to do it again, I would spray PB Blaster on each bolt for a week before. For the 6 bolts on the skid plate I put as much copper grease as possible hoping the next time someone goes in it will be much easier.

Also replaced all the hardward w/ McMaster 10.8 grade zinc bolts as I felt while some of the bolts came out in one piece, I'm sure they are fatigued and did have some surface rust on some.

I went with a Atlantic British unit as I really just wanted to make this as easy as possible. I figured the $300 for the unit was easily saved by doing the work myself. Putting it back together was easy - maybe an hour total - taking it apart and prepping? Probably 4-5x that amount.

And like ron said, it is such a "MIGHT AS WELL" job. I remember reading his post while planning the job and looking at my clean bumper and thinking nah, I won't need it. But once you get it out and see the inner rust - the mind starts thinking differently. So the bumper and sway are back from the sandblasters and will be going to powder sometime next week. I'll probably get a new skid as the inside was a bit rusty. If I didn't have the wife asking how much longer, I'd go the step further and clean the inner frame rails and treat with POR-15 or something similiar.
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  #22  
Old September 24th, 2009, 05:49 PM
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Phillip
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You should do as much rust mitigation as you can while you can. You will hate yourself for not doing it, ask me how I know.
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  #23  
Old September 24th, 2009, 08:17 PM
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evilfij
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Spray waxoyl in the frame and all in the rear crossmember and between the fuel tank skid plate and the tank.
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  #24  
Old September 24th, 2009, 08:46 PM
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Don Bunnell
'86 110 3dr ST
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
Spray waxoyl in the frame and all in the rear crossmember and between the fuel tank skid plate and the tank.
Ron - yeah, I was thinking about that tonight on the fill up/test drive and after reading Rovers/Phillip post this afternoon. What do you recommend for getting inside the frame? Obviously I can't prep it save for blowing out any dirt w/ the air hose. A quick search on Rovers North seemed like this might work - http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-5...l-aerosol.aspx

While the bumper is out, the rear crossmember will be reconditioned. I'm starting a search for how to do it on the outside but agree with spraying something inside the knooks. I really couldn't believe how much dirt had accumilated after I took the tank off. And I had steam cleaned/air blown the underside really well after the last 4 wheeling trip. My thought now is to get the rear bumper/cross member done and get at each corner one at a time on the warmer spells during the winter months in the garage.

Sucks that I should have just done the inner part while the tank was out and the truck was on ramps but didn't know how bad it was going to be. At least with my truck there wasn't much rust just the amount of dirt - which can hold mositure and will be rust in the future.
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  #25  
Old September 26th, 2009, 03:26 AM
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Bill Lewis
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When I had mine out, I POR-15'ed on the cross member, tank cradle and the parts of the frame back there and anything else I couldn't reach around the tank.

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