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  #1  
Old May 21st, 2012, 04:54 PM
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Hybrid build question

So I am in the planning stages of puting a completely different body on a disco frame. Had some questions regarding body mounts - differences in parts etc.

So I am trying to decide between a D90 body or Series body. The plan is tray back so I will only be building the front portion of the truck. Which is going to be easier to build? I know I will need body mounts, all associated body panels and probably all of the parts that connect to the bulkhead like steering wheel, master cylinder etc. I also will need to figure out mouting things like - overflow tank and other parts mounted to inner fender.

So what is the main differences between Series, Defender, ROW, NAS, TDI, V8 and what is compatible with one another.
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  #2  
Old May 21st, 2012, 05:35 PM
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Good luck!

You are better off starting with a near complete truck IMHO as the body mounts are a pain. Something like a disco axles and drivetrain into a ROW 90 or 110 and convert that to trayback would be simplest (like what Devon4x4 does).

In any event, the differences are minimal. The series radiator mounts are obviously different and the series inner fenders are flat so you have that mounting difference as well. The bulkhead mounts are the same, but the steering box mount on a series is different as are the braces.

I am not sure what you are looking for partswise, but I have enough stuff around my house you could probably build two trucks if you want to come shopping.
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  #3  
Old May 21st, 2012, 09:18 PM
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I have a friend that is building a Defender using a Range Rover frame. You do have to weld in a new rear cross member and outriggers to get the series and or Defender bits to work. You might be better off getting an inexpensive Defender to use as your parts truck.
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  #4  
Old May 21st, 2012, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Essentially nothing. A flush front (Stage 1/defender etc) is easier in that it gives you more room. A series pug nose is a bit more difficult for fan/radiator clearance, and even mor difficult if you run AC, but not impossible. Everything else is personal preference.

Do you like the plastic series 3/Defender dash with gauges in front of the steering wheel? Do you want a metal dash with gauges in the center of the dash? Do you want roll up windows? Do you want recessed door handles? Where are you planning on putting the rear bulkhead? Are you custom making one, or using a hi-cap cab back?

-Jeff
Thanks for the info. I think for the sake of having more room under the hood a defender will be the best option.

I honestly dont hve a preference on the majority of the options you have asked about. But then again I dont have any experience with them either.

For the rear bulkhead I am thinking try to find one that has been finished already or make my own if I can find the parts cheap and if not I will import one from the UK - that is going to be the only part that may be difficult to get. And I would feel bad scraping a good tub.

------ Follow up post added May 21st, 2012 08:14 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Good luck!

You are better off starting with a near complete truck IMHO as the body mounts are a pain. Something like a disco axles and drivetrain into a ROW 90 or 110 and convert that to trayback would be simplest (like what Devon4x4 does).

In any event, the differences are minimal. The series radiator mounts are obviously different and the series inner fenders are flat so you have that mounting difference as well. The bulkhead mounts are the same, but the steering box mount on a series is different as are the braces.

I am not sure what you are looking for partswise, but I have enough stuff around my house you could probably build two trucks if you want to come shopping.

Thanks I appreciate the suggestions. I agree starting off with a ROW defender may be an easier route but I already have this chopped up disco that runs great so I figured may as well use it. The only truely difficult part is going to be getting all the body mounts sorted - but I am up for the chalenge.

I plan to do the build on my spare time and since I already have a built trail rig I figured if I pick up parts as I need them or when I see them for really cheap I may be able to build this truck for pretty cheap.

I will let you know what I am looking for and hopefully I can pick up a whole bunch of stuff since you're close.

------ Follow up post added May 21st, 2012 08:17 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by MC22958 View Post
I have a friend that is building a Defender using a Range Rover frame. You do have to weld in a new rear cross member and outriggers to get the series and or Defender bits to work. You might be better off getting an inexpensive Defender to use as your parts truck.
Yea I've looked at what I will need for outriggers and since I wont have a rear end on it I wont be needing a rear cross member. I'd love to get a defender as a parts truck if I had the funds I'd just start with one as a project to begin with but unfortnately I'm trying to build this truck on a small budget.....
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  #5  
Old May 21st, 2012, 11:20 PM
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I must admit though at this point I am pretty torn... I could finish the disco truggy cheap and easily (with a fair amount of welding) and have a fun litte trail truck to bounce off rocks in.. I have always wanted a defender but the time and money that it's gong to take to do all the work my not be worth it - I could/would be better off importing a decent rig.... I'm thiking I may be better off finishing the disco truggy and then saving for a defender...
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  #6  
Old May 22nd, 2012, 10:31 AM
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My hybrid was all Series except for the hood (bonnet). It had a frame made out of angle for the front fenders to bolt to and for a place to attach the grille surround (BTW, I have one if anyone wants it cheap, I put an extended one on the 90). Two series bulkhead outriggers, figure out where they need to go and use a piece of 2x4 rect. for your rear crossmember, that's about all you need to mount a series body on a coiler chassis, besides some brackets made out of angle for the front of the tub/back of the seatbox.

From what I remember, the series outriggers poke up about 2" over the top of the coiler frame for everything to line up.
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  #7  
Old May 22nd, 2012, 10:43 AM
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Finish it! You can always turn it onto a defender later. Night and day difference in terms of effort and money and you'll have a pretty unique truck anyway.

If it were me, I'd graft the rear door back on, even if it's welded shut. I'd crudely fashion anything handy into floors and not worry about any of that stuff. Just make sure you can bolt the seat and belts down well.
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  #8  
Old May 22nd, 2012, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake1996d1 View Post
I have always wanted a defender
Why are you spending all this money and effort on this Disco when what you really want is a Defender?
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  #9  
Old May 22nd, 2012, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Finish it! You can always turn it onto a defender later. Night and day difference in terms of effort and money and you'll have a pretty unique truck anyway.

If it were me, I'd graft the rear door back on, even if it's welded shut. I'd crudely fashion anything handy into floors and not worry about any of that stuff. Just make sure you can bolt the seat and belts down well.

Yea I'm thinkin this is the way to go - the only issue with the rear door is how it is bent and angled. I think I am thinking about sticking with the 1x1 tubing reinforcing the rear of the cab and then using sheet metal and rivets to finish it up.. and then add a rear viewing window..

------ Follow up post added May 22nd, 2012 10:09 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Why are you spending all this money and effort on this Disco when what you really want is a Defender?

Eh I guess I want a defender just to have one but it isnt like my life dream. I'm happy with the white disco I started the second tray back project because the white truck is finished and I had bought this Disco for $500 and couldnt sell it. I'm just doing it for fun mostly. I'll save some money up and get a defender and series eventually I'm not in a huge rush.
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  #10  
Old May 22nd, 2012, 12:20 PM
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I don't have a disco around to look at, but isn't the roof line level after the step up? Seems to me you can keep the same angel/bend of the rear door with a vertical cut that starts about 4" from the top of the door. As long as the top section lines up you can weld that up and the sides can always get plated with some sheet metal to make things fit, but my guess is you can get the sides to line up for the most part, at least down to the top of the wheel well level no?

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I wish I had the time, or I would have bought the truck from you and done this myself!
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  #11  
Old May 22nd, 2012, 12:26 PM
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Or this

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  #12  
Old May 22nd, 2012, 12:36 PM
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There goes my lunch hour, lol.

This one looks more in line with the direction you were headed:

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  #13  
Old May 22nd, 2012, 01:07 PM
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The rear door is actually bowed and isnt flat.. I could probably disassemble it and try to get it as flat as possible and try to use it - which isnt a bad idea.

I was thinking something like the pic attached - Mind you I have been looking into doing this for a while and have a TON of pictures of different set ups and ideas.

or this

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  #14  
Old May 23rd, 2012, 10:48 AM
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One more for ya Charles - I think this is where I'd like to end up

I like how the top of the cab/b pillar is slanted forward and the cage follows the body line
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  #15  
Old May 23rd, 2012, 10:55 AM
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Yeah I like it. I"m serious about finding a bread van or something in a junk yard for the material. You should be able to do this pretty cheap. Maybe even one with a window!
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  #16  
Old May 23rd, 2012, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Yeah I like it. I"m serious about finding a bread van or something in a junk yard for the material. You should be able to do this pretty cheap. Maybe even one with a window!
Yea It's a good idea - I'm planning on just getting entirely new floors out a disco and welding them where I can and then welding in patches and fixing anything else with a bit of fiberglas.

I am going to see if the rear windo on the disco is curved or straight and see if maybe I take the rear door apart and trim it to where I can use the window which would save a lot of sheet metal work..

I already have the 1x1 on order and hopefully will be able to pick it up today then once it's framed I'll figure out what to do for the skin. I'll keep you updated
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  #17  
Old May 23rd, 2012, 11:44 AM
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I have drooled over these builds in LRO/LRM.

I think the danger of bobbing the rear way too much is that the truck appears unbalanced. The best looking builds I've seen extend the trayback bed so that the appearance of the truck as a whole is more balanced.
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  #18  
Old May 23rd, 2012, 12:19 PM
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This page has a couple...

http://www.adrianstomcat.co.uk/Discovery.htm

Also saw this one:
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  #19  
Old May 23rd, 2012, 12:53 PM
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Yea they are lucky to have 2 door discos in other countries where they can just turn it into a pick up...

Here's a couple of where I am at since I havent posted any over here. - I may take more off the frame so far I have taken over 2 ft off and theres a pic for comparisons sake. I am going to have the tray stick out further than the frame and probably box the frame off like a lot of the defender guys have and maybe add a winch later down the road. the pic with some of the measurements is how I plan the frame the rear of the cab with 1x1 - I may move or completely remove some of the bars depending on what I do with for a rear window. The only things I am concerned with is bracing what is left of the doors and adding a little extra support to the roof. And obviously having it be solid and have something to rivet/weld to.
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  #20  
Old May 23rd, 2012, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by rrc.swb View Post
This page has a couple...

http://www.adrianstomcat.co.uk/Discovery.htm

Also saw this one:
I like the last one on the page with the tires that look like oversized 4 wheeler tires. That thing looks like a freaking blast!
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