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  #81  
Old January 16th, 2015, 10:14 AM
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But then what are you going to bolt the wheel to? Maybe I am misunderstanding
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  #82  
Old January 16th, 2015, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by transientmechanic View Post
But then what are you going to bolt the wheel to? Maybe I am misunderstanding
In simple terms make the hub the same size as the LR one where the wheel & brake rotor fits... 6.5" PCD doesn't change so it all depends if the outer boss can be turned down to 101mm for the ID of the rotor's hat.
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  #83  
Old January 17th, 2015, 02:59 PM
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1st gen Mercedes ML320 rear rotor. Drill the 5x6.5 pattern offset from the 5x112, bore out the center hole. Should slip right over a hub that's also drilled for 5x6.5 from the looks of it. These rotors are under $25 each from RockAuto (Bendix brand)

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  #84  
Old January 18th, 2015, 12:12 AM
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Found this on a Pirate thread '96 E350 Chateau 1t van rear drum in hat disc... With it having the internal drum the sides are parallel. With its deep hat it should be able to mount from the front and still fit for 15" rims

AC Delco #18A933A
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  #85  
Old January 18th, 2015, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landy_Andy View Post
Found this on a Pirate thread '96 E350 Chateau 1t van rear drum in hat disc... With it having the internal drum the sides are parallel. With its deep hat it should be able to mount from the front and still fit for 15" rims

AC Delco #18A933A
Would think Wolf studs #FRC 7577 at 60mm overall length should work ok. Adding a countersunk hole for a machine screw into the hub would be a good idea, just to hold the disc in place when the wheel is off.
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  #86  
Old January 18th, 2015, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landy_Andy View Post
Found this on a Pirate thread '96 E350 Chateau 1t van rear drum in hat disc... With it having the internal drum the sides are parallel. With its deep hat it should be able to mount from the front and still fit for 15" rims

AC Delco #18A933A
I think you're on to something. Not sure if it's the same rotor, this one (right) is off of a ford van dana 60 rear. It's ~1/4 inch deeper than the d50 3/4 ton rotor set up (left)
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  #87  
Old January 18th, 2015, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landy_Andy View Post
Would think Wolf studs #FRC 7577 at 60mm overall length should work ok. Adding a countersunk hole for a machine screw into the hub would be a good idea, just to hold the disc in place when the wheel is off.
What is the benefit of using Wolf studs?? The brake caliper wouldn't do a good enough job holding the rotor on? If you really want to ride out on the rotors just zip the lug nuts back on....
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  #88  
Old January 18th, 2015, 02:15 PM
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What is the benefit of using Wolf studs?? The brake caliper wouldn't do a good enough job holding the rotor on? If you really want to ride out on the rotors just zip the lug nuts back on....
You need longer than stock studs due to the thickness of the rotor.
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  #89  
Old January 18th, 2015, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Ruthiford View Post
I think you're on to something. Not sure if it's the same rotor, this one (right) is off of a ford van dana 60 rear. It's ~1/4 inch deeper than the d50 3/4 ton rotor set up (left)
30 min later and yea... About 1/4 difference...
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  #90  
Old January 18th, 2015, 06:02 PM
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Are we still talking about re-drilling for the Rover pattern or are you keeping it 8 lug?
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  #91  
Old January 18th, 2015, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Ruthiford View Post
30 min later and yea... About 1/4 difference...
That looks ideal, would work for the front too, might just need spacers for the calipers bracket.

------ Follow up post added January 18th, 2015 03:13 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by transientmechanic View Post
Are we still talking about re-drilling for the Rover pattern or are you keeping it 8 lug?
Re drilling for the rover pattern...

------ Follow up post added January 18th, 2015 03:17 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
You need longer than stock studs due to the thickness of the rotor.
Correct.. I also think mounting the rotor from the front is a better way, your not just relying on the studs to hold the rotor on. Not a big issue for the 8 lug but with the re-drilled rover pattern having it clamped between the hub & rim seems a much better way.

------ Follow up post added January 18th, 2015 03:18 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruthiford View Post
I think you're on to something. Not sure if it's the same rotor, this one (right) is off of a ford van dana 60 rear. It's ~1/4 inch deeper than the d50 3/4 ton rotor set up (left)
I think it is, does its OD, bore etc match the specs I posted above ?
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  #92  
Old January 18th, 2015, 06:29 PM
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Why are you starting with an 8 lug rotor to re-drill? That's a ton of work (plugging holes and redrilling)

Look up the 97-03 Ford F150 rear rotor.
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  #93  
Old January 18th, 2015, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Landy_Andy View Post

I think it is, does its OD, bore etc match the specs I posted above ?
I'll need to measure it fully. I turned the OD of the hub to 8.090, the diameter of the ford 60 wheel hub.
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  #94  
Old January 18th, 2015, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by transientmechanic View Post
Why are you starting with an 8 lug rotor to re-drill? That's a ton of work (plugging holes and redrilling)

Look up the 97-03 Ford F150 rear rotor.
That's a 5 on 135mm. You make it sound likes it's a direct replacement. It would still require plugging and redrilling.
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  #95  
Old January 18th, 2015, 06:51 PM
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It would not require any plugging, just drill the 5x6.5 pattern offset from the 5x135. No holes overlap. Versus the 8 lug which is already swiss cheese.
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  #96  
Old January 18th, 2015, 07:36 PM
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It would not require any plugging, just drill the 5x6.5 pattern offset from the 5x135. No holes overlap. Versus the 8 lug which is already swiss cheese.
I wouldn't plug the rotor holes. Fairly sure the new holes and the friction of the wheel clamping against it would be good enough for me... I'll ask my wife to post the obituary if I'm wrong

The two overlapping holes would act as sheer points in opposite directions. So really were talking 4 holes..... Not 3.
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  #97  
Old January 18th, 2015, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Ruthiford View Post
I wouldn't plug the rotor holes. Fairly sure the new holes and the friction of the wheel clamping against it would be good enough for me... I'll ask my wife to post the obituary if I'm wrong

The two overlapping holes would act as sheer points in opposite directions. So really were talking 4 holes..... Not 3.
That was my thought too. Keing the 8 lug also means you'll only need one drilling jig for both hub & rotor

------ Follow up post added January 18th, 2015 05:30 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruthiford View Post
I'll need to measure it fully. I turned the OD of the hub to 8.090, the diameter of the ford 60 wheel hub.
That'll keep the disc hub centric easier then turning a step onto the hub outer when it's machined for the LR wheel bore.
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  #98  
Old January 19th, 2015, 04:09 PM
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One good rotor application for the swap you guys are working on is the 100 series landcruiser front. It has a 1.25 inch thickness, 313 mm OD and the bolt pattern is 5 on 144mm, and it is designed to bolt to the backside of the hub. It's the same setup as a standard rover rotor, but bigger and fits over the backside of a dana 60 or 14 bolt hub with some minor fettling. You would have to bolt it to the backside, like a standard rover application.

One problem I have run into when trying to weld up and redrill hubs is that the hubs range in metal composition. It looks like Dana hubs are forged steel and weld OK, but some of the 14 bolt hubs I have tried have been a semi-steel with lots of carbon that caused hard spots next to the welds, and I could not get a good surface when cutting them afterwards.
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  #99  
Old January 19th, 2015, 04:59 PM
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Thanks oilburner... all the major dimensions look comparable to the Chevy disc, within a few mm.... would keep it simple and can use the Ruffstuff or anyones Chevy caliper brackets too. Also good for using with 15" rims


And there cheap !
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  #100  
Old January 19th, 2015, 05:17 PM
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Sure thing! I am using them on the back on my rover project as well. The thickness opens up a whole lot of caliper applications and they should look "factory". Only thing is I am not sure if they fit into a 15 inch rim, but that is more a function of the caliper than the rotor. Putting them on the backside of the hub only moves the rotor further inboard and gives you more caliper clearance.

Edit: Another thing that came to mind while re-reading this thread. I have inquired with all the manufacturers of aftermarket 14 bolt hubs and none of them were able to supply a blank without holes drilled. The 5X5.5 versions also did not have enough diameter to run the 5X6.5 bolt pattern.
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