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  #41  
Old January 8th, 2015, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
I don't understand where the junkyard spindles would come from. So you would need custom spindles, custom drive flanges, custom caliper mounts.. A lot of chromo machining for beer. And the junkyard 9" R&P is pretty iffy.

I don't understand throwing all this into an axle for 35s. I assume you already have chromo 24 spline axles and a locker? Add Ashcroft's new R&P and pin it yourself and you will be fine on 35s. That or a stock Salisbury with chromo axles. 1000s running 30 spline chromo axles and 35s and are happy. 24 spline is only a tiny bit smaller. The way you are talking, I assumed 42s at least.
Ok... after reading many different threads I 'assumed' that you could make D60 spindles fit with the LR hub.... and as D50 TTB spindles are virtually identical to the D60, I'd use those as the junk yards are full of them.

Obviously I was wrong.... as it's not just a simple task of machining out the hubs

Yes, I'm only running 35's at present.... might go to 36's when I wear out the new tires on the truck. Don't have a locker in the back, put that one in the front. So, will need to order a new one anyway along with a drive shafts, want 1310's through out as I have them on the D2 also... that's one of the reasons for looking at swapping out now.

Also, with moving the t'case back 8" to accomodate the crawler box it's messed up my pinion angle a bit, easy fix with a new axle casing under the truck, when I welded on the 4 link truss... it warped the case a bit, nothing huge but again, easy fix with a Ruffstuff axle supplied with the flanges & truss supplied welded on.

Just wanted to belt & brace the rear end at a low additional parts cost, have the opportunity to do it now rather than later.... I guess I should have not bothered looking at the 9" option and just gone to 30 spline Toyota
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  #42  
Old January 8th, 2015, 01:11 PM
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Ah, I assumed you already had a built set of Rover axles. You were running stock half shafts with 35" tire? Holy crap.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Landy_Andy View Post
Also, with moving the t'case back 8" to accomodate the crawler box it's messed up my pinion angle a bit, easy fix with a new axle casing under the truck, when I welded on the 4 link truss... it warped the case a bit, nothing huge but again, easy fix with a Ruffstuff axle supplied with the flanges & truss supplied welded on.
Would not a 9" make this problem worse with the low pinion?

If you go Toy, why not just keep the Rover housing and save a lot of money. A Rover housing is pretty much free. The Toy center will more or less go right in. Then you just need the 30 spline axles and drive flanges.
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  #43  
Old January 8th, 2015, 03:31 PM
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The axles are/were built, ARB's gone to the front axle... leaving KAM h'shafts & Ashcroft flanges in the rear which I can sell on.

From what I've read, the 9" pinion is about 1/2" lower than the rover... using a DC drive shaft and having the pinion pointing at the t'case... not so much of an issue... was built like that when I did the 100" conversion & 4 link.

I could do the toy conversion directly into the old housing but as it's both a teeny bit warped but and had a Tomcat double wall kit installed years ago along with a new cover & 1/4" thick diff guard. Would be a bit of a PITA to do the studs from the front & I don't have a jig. Also, take into account I'll also have to cut off the spring perches when I tip the pinion nose up to point at the t'case.... decided might as well just build a new one & fix it all at once. I can cut the end flanges off the old case, clean them up & send to Ruffstuff to weld on the new one for me.

Although the more I think about it..... the 30 spline's will prob fit OK in the T'cat double wall tubes (35's deff won't) so just changing the spring perches isn't really a big issue.... would be nice to borrow a drilling jig for the 3rd flange. Worst case I could draw it up & have one water jet cut.

As you say, then just the 30 spline axles & flanges..... plenty of built 3rd's on Craigslist from people upgrading to ton's around here.

Talking about shafts.... TG can do custom double ended, but who's supplying drive flanges ?

I've emailed Moser for a price on the old 'Rovertracks' flanged axles they made too, as an alternative.
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  #44  
Old January 8th, 2015, 03:42 PM
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Why would you need to rotate the spring perches? It's a coil sprung axle... just adjust the control arms?
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  #45  
Old January 8th, 2015, 04:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by transientmechanic View Post
Why would you need to rotate the spring perches? It's a coil sprung axle... just adjust the control arms?
Cause they'll not be horizontal when I tip the nose of the diff up to point at the t'case and the springs won't sit level.
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  #46  
Old January 9th, 2015, 12:37 PM
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Gonna park this job for the time being.... once I get the GM drive line in I can see if I can get away with just keeping the existing rear axle without having to mod the spring perches. Might just stick some angled spacers in to correct any issues for the time being.

Out of info..... Ashcroft don't have the tooling to cut the 30 splines into flanges.
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  #47  
Old January 9th, 2015, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landy_Andy View Post
Ok... after reading many different threads I 'assumed' that you could make D60 spindles fit with the LR hub.... and as D50 TTB spindles are virtually identical to the D60, I'd use those as the junk yards are full of them.

Obviously I was wrong.... as it's not just a simple task of machining out the hubs

Yes, I'm only running 35's at present.... might go to 36's when I wear out the new tires on the truck. Don't have a locker in the back, put that one in the front. So, will need to order a new one anyway along with a drive shafts, want 1310's through out as I have them on the D2 also... that's one of the reasons for looking at swapping out now.

Also, with moving the t'case back 8" to accomodate the crawler box it's messed up my pinion angle a bit, easy fix with a new axle casing under the truck, when I welded on the 4 link truss... it warped the case a bit, nothing huge but again, easy fix with a Ruffstuff axle supplied with the flanges & truss supplied welded on.

Just wanted to belt & brace the rear end at a low additional parts cost, have the opportunity to do it now rather than later.... I guess I should have not bothered looking at the 9" option and just gone to 30 spline Toyota
The spindle pic you posted a while back are not normal D50/60 spindles. I think they were super old ford D60 (bottom load, ie. Low pinion pre 1979 "snow fighter" spindles) where the inner bearing is similar in size to the outer.

I'll try to post a pic tomorrow as I have some D50 stuff from my now parted out rock buggy in the garage.
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  #48  
Old January 10th, 2015, 12:02 PM
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Ashcroft can't supply plain bore flanges to respline for Yota shafts.... So, my thoughts are to build a 9" axle with 31 spline shafts & the D60 ends. Gets me as strong as the Yota conversion and leaves the option of a 35 spline upgrade open for later.

Apart from the axle housing & shafts.... Everything else I can source out the junkyard to keep costs down. Fixes my slightly banana shaped axle, gets me better than the 24 spline and I don't have to touch the front end at this time. Can at least then order the front driveshaft once the T'case is relocated. Gets the truck moving under its power whilst I finish off the rest of the GM install, dash, wiring & bodywork.

Then if there's money left over I can order the Ruffstuff housing fully welded up with the flanges, back & top truss on.... All nice & straight then

Edit....

Just found that D60's & 15" rims can be a bit of an issue depending upon the rim back spacing... Hopefully as mine have about 2.5" I shouldn't have too much to grind off the brake calipers ??
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  #49  
Old January 10th, 2015, 04:22 PM
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Dana 50 hubs turned to fit inside Wolf wheels.
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  #50  
Old January 10th, 2015, 04:24 PM
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So you have 4.1s on the front now?
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  #51  
Old January 10th, 2015, 04:56 PM
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You can kinda see in one of the pics above that two of the original 8 lug holes overlap a bit. Here is a Cad drawing of the two bolt circles. The Red is the original 8x6.5 inch Dana lug pattern. The Green, the rover 5x6.5.

I will fill the 2 original holes with a plug of some sort then drill the new holes. It looks like I can use the original lug studs from the D50. I just happen to have some larger than normal lug nuts that are the same thread as the original D50 studs.
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  #52  
Old January 10th, 2015, 08:14 PM
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Ok, Sorry for the miscellaneous ramblings.

The ideas I have presented are to use Dana 50 spindles and hubs to gain strength and keep the original Rover lug pattern.

As a general rule Dana 44 8 lug hubs could be used as well, but will not yield the same strength axle/shaft set up. Dana 50/60 spindles can use 1.5" 35 spline axle shafts. D44 can only use ~1.3" 30 spline...(don't hold me to that as I really could care less about a D44....)

Ford used the Dana 50 in F250's. This was a Twin Traction Beam (TTB) design. The TTB looks like this

I find these parts in local "Pick and Pull" yards all the time. Typically they charge $125 for both wheel hubs/spindles/rotors/bearings/locking hubs.

The wheel hubs are an 8x6.5 bolt pattern. The spindles are VERY similar to normal Dana 60 steer axle spindles. With the right mix and match of parts one can substitute these nicely for a cheap easy axle build.

A few of the photos I have posted above are my attempt at modifying parts to start building replacement axles for my D110.

In order to use these hubs/spindles on a Ford 9inch one would use these http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/axles...-original.html adapters. You would then use a double spline axle shaft.

Thanks for reading!!
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  #53  
Old January 10th, 2015, 10:36 PM
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Ok.... I give in.... Just got to wait till the snow goes before I can go look for D50 TTB parts...
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  #54  
Old January 11th, 2015, 12:30 AM
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Here are a few more photos I took today.

24 vs 35 spline
A TTB hub/spindle/rotor as pulled from P&P
A Disco spindle vs a TTB
The TTB with 35 spline D60 stub shaft
And a few others....
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  #55  
Old January 11th, 2015, 08:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruthiford View Post
Here are a few more photos I took today.

24 vs 35 spline
A TTB hub/spindle/rotor as pulled from P&P
A Disco spindle vs a TTB
The TTB with 35 spline D60 stub shaft
And a few others....
Dude why didn't you get into Rovers when we lived closer to each other? You could build them and I could drive them. I don't want to hear any chin music about it because after laying my Unimog on the side you have lost all off road driving privileges!!! We won't even talk about the buggy debacle.
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  #56  
Old January 11th, 2015, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by solarguy View Post
Dude why didn't you get into Rovers when we lived closer to each other? You could build them and I could drive them. I don't want to hear any chin music about it because after laying my Unimog on the side you have lost all off road driving privileges!!! We won't even talk about the buggy debacle.
Have we met before?
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  #57  
Old January 11th, 2015, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Ruthiford View Post

Have we met before?
That's some good stuff !!!
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  #58  
Old January 11th, 2015, 07:35 PM
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Yup. We have a version specifically for the ttb spindles as well! When we build housings with these ends, they are pressed on, then set in a lathe, and adjusted if needed to be true to the tube before welding as well!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruthiford View Post
Ok, Sorry for the miscellaneous ramblings.

The ideas I have presented are to use Dana 50 spindles and hubs to gain strength and keep the original Rover lug pattern.

As a general rule Dana 44 8 lug hubs could be used as well, but will not yield the same strength axle/shaft set up. Dana 50/60 spindles can use 1.5" 35 spline axle shafts. D44 can only use ~1.3" 30 spline...(don't hold me to that as I really could care less about a D44....)

Ford used the Dana 50 in F250's. This was a Twin Traction Beam (TTB) design. The TTB looks like this

I find these parts in local "Pick and Pull" yards all the time. Typically they charge $125 for both wheel hubs/spindles/rotors/bearings/locking hubs.

The wheel hubs are an 8x6.5 bolt pattern. The spindles are VERY similar to normal Dana 60 steer axle spindles. With the right mix and match of parts one can substitute these nicely for a cheap easy axle build.

A few of the photos I have posted above are my attempt at modifying parts to start building replacement axles for my D110.

In order to use these hubs/spindles on a Ford 9inch one would use these http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/axles...-original.html adapters. You would then use a double spline axle shaft.

Thanks for reading!!
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  #59  
Old January 12th, 2015, 12:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruthiford View Post
You can kinda see in one of the pics above that two of the original 8 lug holes overlap a bit. Here is a Cad drawing of the two bolt circles. The Red is the original 8x6.5 inch Dana lug pattern. The Green, the rover 5x6.5.

I will fill the 2 original holes with a plug of some sort then drill the new holes. It looks like I can use the original lug studs from the D50. I just happen to have some larger than normal lug nuts that are the same thread as the original D50 studs.
Here's a quick drawing I did with the associated stud hole diameters.... as the two that overlap are only just into the other hole I think just tapping them out from the back side with a taper tap to give a tight thread, then screwing in bolts using high strength Loctite should be good, cut heads off & a quick skim in the lathe and..... poof holes gone

I was going to use the bottom stud with an extra hole in a 3/8" think plate to make it into a drilling jig. Would reduce the LR holes to 1/4" as a pilot & then the hubs could be drilled on the pedestal drill.

Thoughts.... ?

Edit.... Noticed I'd got the wrong stud size for the 8 lug, should be 14mm not 0.5", will fix later
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  #60  
Old January 12th, 2015, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landy_Andy View Post
Here's a quick drawing I did with the associated stud hole diameters.... as the two that overlap are only just into the other hole I think just tapping them out from the back side with a taper tap to give a tight thread, then screwing in bolts using high strength Loctite should be good, cut heads off & a quick skim in the lathe and..... poof holes gone

I was going to use the bottom stud with an extra hole in a 3/8" think plate to make it into a drilling jig. Would reduce the LR holes to 1/4" as a pilot & then the hubs could be drilled on the pedestal drill.

Thoughts.... ?

Edit.... Noticed I'd got the wrong stud size for the 8 lug, should be 14mm not 0.5", will fix later
If I were to make a "Drill jig" I'd use the 4 (12/3/6/9 o clock) holes to mount the jig.
I was tossed up on the thought of a drill jig though. I will measure the original D50 hub/wheel pilot tonight. This way a guy could fill the two holes, grind the fill plug to "close enough", drill the new LR lug holes, then face in the lathe while turning the pilot.

Im picking up several pipe plugs today to fill my overlapping holes. Ill post pics
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