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  #21  
Old January 5th, 2015, 12:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ash View Post
Oh I'm with you. It's a novelty that some guys like, and frankly if you're dropping big bucks on a fabricated housing it's not that big of a leap.

Doing some digging, it looks like Buck went with custom spindles, which I would imagine is required since you need the same amount of bearing area for the Rover hub and jam nuts to fit on. Physically machining the hub can't be that hard once you have your bearings picked out.

I definitely remember seeing a set of hubs re-drilled. I wonder who that was..


You are correct, he used Rovertracks spindles.... but there NLA now
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  #22  
Old January 5th, 2015, 02:16 PM
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If this post is not OK, let me know.

We've built many offset rear housings, and pioneered the use of front spindles on flanges in a rear axle application. We can set the housing to the width /offset needed. We can also take care of machining stock hubs, or reworking new hubs to hit the rover bolt pattern. If we can help, please let us know.

Admin, please let me know!
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  #23  
Old January 5th, 2015, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by transientmechanic View Post
If you dont want to use a spacer, you could use the 5x5.5 pattern to reverse mount a standard jeep/ford rotor on the back side of the hub face, then drill and stud the hub for 5x6.5 at 90* to the other pattern.
So your saying, counter bore the 5x5.5 on the front face for the studs to hold the rotor on the back & counter bore the back face for the 5x6.5 studs.... interesting idea.... thx
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  #24  
Old January 5th, 2015, 07:02 PM
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You got it... in theory this should work however I haven't done it. I've sketched it up in my mind many times, designing a rear axle for my Series that would keep standard Series-looking wheels.

Diamond, thanks for the input. The problem with just re-drilling to 5x6.5 is brakes. Land Rovers use a reverse-mounted brake rotor that does not have the wheel bolt pattern drilled in it. You would have to find a 5x5.5 rotor, with a large enough hat diameter to fit a redrilled 5x6.5 pattern and slip over a D60 hub. I have not spent the time going through the parts books to see if this is a reality.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Landy_Andy View Post
So your saying, counter bore the 5x5.5 on the front face for the studs to hold the rotor on the back & counter bore the back face for the 5x6.5 studs.... interesting idea.... thx
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  #25  
Old January 5th, 2015, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landy_Andy View Post
So.... here are the parts Buck posted recently on Pirate :

Ford D60 front spindles - http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Drivetrain-J...FVBsfgodt6AAGg

Ruffstuff flanges to suit - http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/.../FLANGE60.html

In addition I already considered custom spacers but as my wheels have quite a lot of offset at present that would just put more load on the bearings. Doing it this way does mean custom shafts & drive flanges but I get the benefits of larger bearings and the stronger 9" third.
Maybe it's a different "Buck" but "I know this is not exactly what you are looking for, but I did exactly what you are trying to do. The Rover pattern actually lends itself to a D60 hub extremely well. I did use a stock rotor, but it was not very difficult. All I did was press in plugs for the original holes. You can actually buy machined plugs and then press them in. I did not even tack the plugs as they are really not going anywhere.

I would do that or weld as the stock rotors are easy and cheap to come by. I never even looked for a hub with no holes. Good luck."

From
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/land-...ml#post7274054
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  #26  
Old January 6th, 2015, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diamond Axle View Post
If this post is not OK, let me know. We've built many offset rear housings, and pioneered the use of front spindles on flanges in a rear axle application. We can set the housing to the width /offset needed. We can also take care of machining stock hubs, or reworking new hubs to hit the rover bolt pattern. If we can help, please let us know. Admin, please let me know!
I say it's a great thing to hear from vendors especially for custom axles. I will be running Toy on my build but always like hearing what people are doing.
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  #27  
Old January 6th, 2015, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by don View Post
I say it's a great thing to hear from vendors especially for custom axles. I will be running Toy on my build but always like hearing what people are doing.
Agreed ! Thank you, Diamond Axle, very much for posting



Have front and rear Sals on the rover, but have had an interest in seeing a 9" Ford center for F/R, with super strong Toy outer bits up front and keeping the LR bolt pattern. Have 4.56 gears now and if the centers were Ford (or Toy), it would make changing that a lot easier...

Sure miss (Roving Tracks) Keith !

He did the front and rear axles
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  #28  
Old January 6th, 2015, 10:30 AM
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I would imagine we will see an off the shelf solution for this problem soon with the growing popularity of the LS V8 swap. Its the next logical step. If you could get the attention of Sipertrax or one of the other D60 parts manufacturers and explain the growing market they would probably be very interested.

It wont be long until you'll be able to build a LS/D60 ROW 90 on 37s for ~$25-30k...
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  #29  
Old January 6th, 2015, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by transientmechanic View Post
I would imagine we will see an off the shelf solution for this problem soon with the growing popularity of the LS V8 swap. Its the next logical step. If you could get the attention of Sipertrax or one of the other D60 parts manufacturers and explain the growing market they would probably be very interested.

It wont be long until you'll be able to build a LS/D60 ROW 90 on 37s for ~$25-30k...
I still have a ton of work on my OM617 110 but I have dreams about a LS power 100" on 37's. What is the short coming of the Salsbury? It's essentially a D60 3rd so just the axle shafts are the weak area? I know Keith had a kit for it but cannot remember the specs.

I think the Toy conversion is really nice for up to 35" tires. But just for the rear and using the e-Locker Toy 3rd. (I wish those cable kit for the locker weren't so much!) There wasn't much to it to work in a Rover housing. Although If I could do it over I would just get HD 24 spline stock Rover for the front and do a TT or leave it open. The E-Locker HP Toy diffs seem harder/more expensive to find than the rear ones.
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  #30  
Old January 6th, 2015, 11:23 AM
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Salisbury rear is an okay option but there is still a fair amount of work to convert it to 35 spline (which is the point of this entire thread). Salisbury front is handicapped by running the same Rover swivels/CVs as the standard type front. You could fit the big 30 spline toy CV's quite easily but its not 35 spline

In order to build a 35 spline front you would have to start with Dana 60 spec open knuckles, at which point you might as well start with a high pinion 60 front diff rather than grafting big open knuckles onto the low pinion salisbury housing.

Shipfitters disease really
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  #31  
Old January 6th, 2015, 12:43 PM
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After a certain point, I would think that running junkyard dana 60's front and rear with rover fittings welded onto the axles would be the cheapest/strongest route.
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  #32  
Old January 6th, 2015, 04:23 PM
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Maybe it's a different "Buck"
Thanks.... you have an email
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  #33  
Old January 6th, 2015, 11:27 PM
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Wow. I have not been on this site in eons! I hope everyone is doing well!

I thought I would get on here and clear up some things. Maybe a lot of things.

1. Everyone is right, and everyone is wrong.
I have made a hybrid9/rover for my old rig using Rovertracks weld on flanges, rovertracks custom spindles, and bored out rover hubs. This was a great option BUT, Keith is not doing them anymore, so it would be a fortune to make two spindles. It was a cool system though.

1a. I also redrilled a dana60 hub and brake caliper to match the rover spindle. I was the first to do this.

1b. I also used the dana60 front spindles and hubs on my rear axle. But that was on a flipped 14bolt on the racecar.

So basically, yes, I did it all, and no, I didn't do it all.



Andy: Here is my advice to you. You can toss the drawings I sent you as they are for the snub custom spindle that you can't get anymore unless you made it.

I would buy a fabbed housing. Diamond, spidertracks, ruffstuff, and trailgear are all good. I would go ruffstuff because they seem to have the best price point for what you get, and I have had good experiences there. Then order the ruffstuff weld on flanges for said axle. On ebay you can get used 60 hubs for $80 and can get good spindles for $125 online new. Then redrill. It's very easy as the d60 hubs are 8on6.5 and rover is 5on6.5 Also, you can get brake brackets anywhere that just bolt on, and the brakes are cheap. Bear in mind that you will have to buy drive slugs that are spendy, but a double splined system is the best system.

Or option 2, do this: https://www.trail-gear.com/TG/Rear_R...x#.VKyx5dh0zcs and just redrill it. Or I could even make you a new flange for the outside of the hub. This is just hard to beat for the money.

Keep in mind one thing, no matter what you do, the axles will be custom. And make sure you realize that the output on the pumpkin will be offset on the 9 so you need to shove that third over a lot further than you think. And that's cool anyway. If it were up to me I would shove the rear pumpkin over as far as I could. Well, I did! (pic below)

Hope all this helps. I'll check back to answer specific questions. Cheers
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  #34  
Old January 7th, 2015, 02:04 AM
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Hi & thanks for that.... looks like what I was wanting to do just won't work

Oh well... back to the drawing board.... better go read up on toy/rover hybrid axles now.
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  #35  
Old January 7th, 2015, 09:56 AM
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I don't understand. What you want to do will work perfectly. Just not the rover hub option. The one using the d60 hub works very well.
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  #36  
Old January 7th, 2015, 10:10 AM
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Good to see you back D.
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  #37  
Old January 7th, 2015, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Buckon37s View Post
I don't understand. What you want to do will work perfectly. Just not the rover hub option. The one using the d60 hub works very well.

You haven't met my wife aka 'the bank manager' !
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  #38  
Old January 7th, 2015, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Landy_Andy View Post
You haven't met my wife aka 'the bank manager' !
The option Buck is proposing is MUCH cheaper than the one you proposed.... How much exactly had you planned on spending? Like I said, we are talk $3000 minimum per axle.
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  #39  
Old January 7th, 2015, 06:21 PM
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The option Buck is proposing is MUCH cheaper than the one you proposed.... How much exactly had you planned on spending? Like I said, we are talk $3000 minimum per axle.
My rough estimate was $1500 for Ruffstuff parts, $100 Ebay 9" spool, spindles & 3rd from the junk yard... say $200. Bearings & seals about $200, machining in a buddies shop... free/beer. Axles from Moser $370.

So, under $2500 if you ignore S&H.... and I'm only building a rear axle as I'm limiting the truck to 35's.

I understand the dana brakes & hubs will easily adapt.... just didn't want to scrap new discs & rebuilt calipers that I've already got. I'm not looking for the 'ultimate' axle just a bit more than the 24 spline that's already in there.... so, maybe a toy 3rd conversion in a Ruffstuff housing would be a better option.... there $100 cheaper than the 9" ones too.
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  #40  
Old January 7th, 2015, 08:31 PM
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I don't understand where the junkyard spindles would come from. So you would need custom spindles, custom drive flanges, custom caliper mounts.. A lot of chromo machining for beer. And the junkyard 9" R&P is pretty iffy.

I don't understand throwing all this into an axle for 35s. I assume you already have chromo 24 spline axles and a locker? Add Ashcroft's new R&P and pin it yourself and you will be fine on 35s. That or a stock Salisbury with chromo axles. 1000s running 30 spline chromo axles and 35s and are happy. 24 spline is only a tiny bit smaller. The way you are talking, I assumed 42s at least.
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