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  #1  
Old February 3rd, 2008, 07:23 PM
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How would you fix this?

It seems that the rear quater panel is "peeling" away from the side panel where the rivets should be...

Should I replace the rear panel? Should I cut the section of metal that is pulled away and have it welded together at the seam? Should I just grind off the rust and treat that and leave the extra metal for "character"?
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  #2  
Old February 3rd, 2008, 07:51 PM
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Chris Hinkle
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I appear to be looking at the passenger side corner protection angle. It is pop riveted to the side and the back rear panel and slips under the top rail. Drill out the rivets, pull the angle off and clean up the area underneath the angle. Then pop rivet a replacement angle into place and you are good to go. (Lights and rear tire carrier and anything else bolted thru the angle has to be removed) (Also, there are several versions of the corner angles).
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Old February 3rd, 2008, 09:33 PM
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And if has seen enough water and time, there is probably galvanic changes in between the two surfaces. The aluminum turns to a white powder
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  #4  
Old March 19th, 2008, 11:53 AM
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part

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoosier
I appear to be looking at the passenger side corner protection angle. It is pop riveted to the side and the back rear panel and slips under the top rail. Drill out the rivets, pull the angle off and clean up the area underneath the angle. Then pop rivet a replacement angle into place and you are good to go. (Lights and rear tire carrier and anything else bolted thru the angle has to be removed) (Also, there are several versions of the corner angles).
I was searching rovers north and can't figure out what part it is I need to order. I know this is a dumb question but do you call that the left or right side? I want to repair this while I have the bumper and tire carrier off.

Also, do I need to order anything special to do the rivet work?
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  #5  
Old March 19th, 2008, 12:01 PM
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Will
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Driver-side = Left.
Passenger-side = Right.
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  #6  
Old March 19th, 2008, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaucer
Driver-side = Left.
Passenger-side = Right.
Thank you- after I posted it I had a moment of clarity and realized the difference between left hand and right hand drive trucks...
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  #7  
Old April 22nd, 2009, 04:40 PM
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I found the part on Rovers North and apparently it is $160. RDS was expensive too. I then found the series version and it is half. Is there a reason I couldn't use the series part?

https://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-...s-iia-iii.aspx

Would this work? http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-1...er-90-110.aspx
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  #8  
Old April 22nd, 2009, 04:52 PM
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Stephen at safari rover is remaking the 95-style capping and the price is good. The one in the pic at RN has two holes that you would need to fill and then you'd have to modify the inside lower edge profile to match the 95. Just get the ones from Stephen, I've got a set and they are excellent, nicer than stock I think.
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  #9  
Old April 22nd, 2009, 04:56 PM
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Is it a sign that I'm getting used to rovers that as soon as I saw the title of this thread my first thought was:

"I bet it will involve a hammer"
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  #10  
Old April 22nd, 2009, 05:03 PM
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As an FYI, it is not easy (but it is possible) to remove this part without removing the upper capping. It sits behind the top capping.

Rivets are $0.35 each from RDS.
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  #11  
Old March 16th, 2010, 11:32 AM
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Fixed

I thought I would post some photos of the project. I did get the trim from Stephen at Safari Rover and it fits well. I needed to add a hole for the tire carrier and drill an extra hole in the body to match up with one on the trim. There was one hole that wasn't used on the the trim as it was covered by the tail light.

I think the hardest part was the painting. I did primer, 3 coats of color and 4 coats of clear. Paint was purchased online and came in aerosol cans, www.automotivetouchup.com. It wasn't bad, used a coat hanger to hang the piece from the garage door track. From 3-4' it looks great, up close you can see why I will never be in auto body repair.

Ordered the rivets from McMaster Carr, www.mcmaster.com part #97524A105. I also ordered the drill attachment for installing the rivets and was really happy with how easy it was to use, even with my weak cordless drill, part # 98716A100.

I had already removed the tire carrier and rear bumper to be re-finished so they weren’t an issue. Removing the trim was easy, just drilled out the rivets with drill bit. The trim piece was removed easily from under the capping and discarded. I loosened the rear taillight to get the piece to line up properly. Slid the new piece in, riveted it in place and then drill the tire carrier hole, and the extra hole in the trim. I did have to remove the rear light guard to get two of the rivets in because neither the drill attachment nor a hand riveter would fit.

All in all a simple project and looks significantly better.
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