how to go to carb on 94 ST - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 20th, 2011, 10:33 PM
wantone
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Rick Thompson
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how to go to carb on 94 ST

hi guys, i searched and have seen some have ditched the efi/ecu for an edelbrock carb setup. i understand i need carb, manifold and low pressure fuel pump. My question is, anything else I need to do? Also, when done, what electronic crap will I be able to ditch? I am positive this is the way I am going to go. I want to simplify this part of the truck like the rest of it is, ie., can fix it anywhere simply and not worry about carrying extra ECU, silver relays etc.

Thanks for the help!
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  #2  
Old January 21st, 2011, 11:03 AM
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J. Michael McCaig
D90 ST, LR110, Series IIa, RRC
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I guess some sort of EPA related disclaimer about still meeting any aplicable emissions testing should be inserted here...with that said, just about the only electronics left is in the ignition system and you can take care of that with a Mallory distributor. When you do the fuel pump you can insert a piece of fuel rated tubing in place of the high pressure pump so the assembly can still be used for your fuel guage. Then just mount an external pump on the frame rail near the filter as was done with the V8 110s.
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Old January 21st, 2011, 11:19 AM
wantone
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Rick Thompson
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thanks! i plan on the mallory setup, been reading neil's threads and seems like he has that one all worked out and simplified. Just to clarify, just splice the new lower pressure pump into the fuel line right before the filter, disconnect the power supply to the pump in the tank and hook it into the new pump? leave the other wires to the old pump intact so the gauge works. Finally, should I source a new pump that is used in the older V8's?
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  #4  
Old January 21st, 2011, 11:58 AM
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Scott Y
95 D90 SW, 2003 Disco II, 93 D110
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I would also lose the injection fuel filter because it might have too high of a pressure drop across it and look for a a filter/pressure regulator for a carb set up. Carburetors like Webers like to see about 4-6 psi and the old filters with the glass bowls had a pressure regulator in the top. You might want to talked to the folks at Pierce Manifolds in Gilroy, CA. They are carb specialists (not many left). There are also other fuel system changes -- like losing the fuel rail on top of the engine.
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Old January 21st, 2011, 12:01 PM
wantone
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Rick Thompson
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good point on the filter, i will just use a normal from the local parts store for that. I am going to use the intake and carb setup from edelbrock. i did notice on RP's sight something about a new housing on the front of the intake that has a line to the water pump so i guess i will need one of those as well.
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  #6  
Old January 21st, 2011, 12:43 PM
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Ron
1994 NAS Defender 90
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wondering if you will be able to suck fuel up the old fuel pump pick up ...

also knock $3000 of the truck when you sell it

do they have emmisions in your state?

also forget about steep incline climbs
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  #7  
Old January 21st, 2011, 01:02 PM
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J. Michael McCaig
D90 ST, LR110, Series IIa, RRC
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My 110 V8 has an edelbrock carb (it originally had twin SU carbs) and it does fine on the original fuel pump which just so happens is made in the USA. It is a Facet cylinder type with pressure in the 5-6 psi range. The pump is pretty common, you can even find it on ebay. You will need a new thermostat housing with a fitting for the short hose from the waterpump. Set your new carb up for off-road using instructions you can find on the web and it will go along way to eliminate flooding on hills. Having the carb will mean that you have to keep the choke working properly in order for it to start well in cold weather. I like the simplicity of the carb setup in my ROW 110 but the carb will reduce the value of your NAS D90 IMO.
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  #8  
Old January 21st, 2011, 01:16 PM
wantone
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Rick Thompson
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thanks for the info. was i correct about how to plumb and power it? as far as value, does not really matter to me, i have no plans on ever selling it and if i ever do and am worried about resale, i will just put the efi back on, you know?

i really appreciate all the help!
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  #9  
Old January 21st, 2011, 03:56 PM
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J. Michael McCaig
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Yes, I would just extend the fuel pump wires from the old pump tank location to the new pump location. You are using the existing wiring to include the colision cut-off switch and the fuel pump relay which I think is a good thing. Leave the gauge wires connected to the original sending unit/pump assembly. By replacing the original pump with a piece of tubing you will be using the original pickup in the tank (did this on a RRC). Good luck.
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