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  #1  
Old September 8th, 2013, 07:38 AM
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How to attach Noise-Killer pads?

Hello

I bit the bullet & purchased the entire Noise Killer set (http://www.noisekiller.co.uk/landrov...g_products.asp) for my 110 SW.

It's certainly an impressive set, thicker & more substantial than anything I or the body shop had seen.

But none of the panels that are on vertical surfaces, or the hood, will stay on. The adhesive that came on it did not last a day. I emailed Noise Killer & they replied that they did not recommend that I add aftermarket adhesive because it would fill up the pores in the material.

Some of the vertical pieces (bulkhead) I was able to attach with SS screws & fender washers. But the hood & the rear side panels, there was no way. So I purchased the strongest trim glue I could find, the "Super Trim" stuff from 3M (#08090 @ $25 a can!) & re-attached the hood & side pieces...it didn't last either.

Any ideas? Surely someone else has had this problem.

I know I'm a wuss for wanting it quieter, but we had it down to the frame & I thought I'll never have this chance again, etc.....

Thanks
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  #2  
Old September 8th, 2013, 08:38 AM
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Have you cleaned the surfaces properly first?
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  #3  
Old September 8th, 2013, 09:46 AM
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Robert Davis
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small noise killers.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Axel View Post
Hello

I bit the bullet & purchased the entire Noise Killer set...
I have been using noise killers on long trips for years.
They are small easily squashed up and expand once inserted in each ear.

Obviously I never use the real stuff as when working on the vehicle it gets in the way and is always and I mean always hanging down and if it gets soaked with the right flammable liquid can smolder or flame up under the wrong conditions (for the driver).

The best attachment technology, I have seen under various hoods and vertical surfaces are thin strips of aluminum screwed or pop riveted (on the outside surface) to some bodywork that doesn't protrude to the outside surface. This rig up seems to support the weight which is the determining factor to pull the whole thing down.

That whole soundproofing is a nuisance in my book, but no one has ever accused me of not being opinionated.

Hope this helps.
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  #4  
Old September 8th, 2013, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axel View Post
Hello

I bit the bullet & purchased the entire Noise Killer set (http://www.noisekiller.co.uk/landrov...g_products.asp) for my 110 SW.

It's certainly an impressive set, thicker & more substantial than anything I or the body shop had seen.

But none of the panels that are on vertical surfaces, or the hood, will stay on. The adhesive that came on it did not last a day. I emailed Noise Killer & they replied that they did not recommend that I add aftermarket adhesive because it would fill up the pores in the material.

Some of the vertical pieces (bulkhead) I was able to attach with SS screws & fender washers. But the hood & the rear side panels, there was no way. So I purchased the strongest trim glue I could find, the "Super Trim" stuff from 3M (#08090 @ $25 a can!) & re-attached the hood & side pieces...it didn't last either.

Any ideas? Surely someone else has had this problem.

I know I'm a wuss for wanting it quieter, but we had it down to the frame & I thought I'll never have this chance again, etc.....

Thanks

On boats we used a product named soundown and attached it with 3m 4200 quickdry
http://www.marinepartsmegastore.com/...Fa1xOgod8xUAAQ

I'm certain 4200 will hold your product in place
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  #5  
Old September 8th, 2013, 11:34 AM
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I used a similar material made for the inside of boat engine compartments. They have a system of pins you epoxy and push the insulation on and then slide a type of washer that grabs the pin. They have that at West Marine but the system is expensive. I used an extra coat of contact cement after thoroughly cleaning the surface and it seems to be working
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Old September 8th, 2013, 09:21 PM
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Yes, the surface was brand-new rhino-liner on the sides. The hood underside wasn't painted. I could have roughed the surface up I guess, but it came off so easily I think the stuff's just too heavy for adhesive.

------ Follow up post added September 8th, 2013 08:23 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
I have been using noise killers on long trips for years.
They are small easily squashed up and expand once inserted in each ear.

Obviously I never use the real stuff as when working on the vehicle it gets in the way and is always and I mean always hanging down and if it gets soaked with the right flammable liquid can smolder or flame up under the wrong conditions (for the driver).

The best attachment technology, I have seen under various hoods and vertical surfaces are thin strips of aluminum screwed or pop riveted (on the outside surface) to some bodywork that doesn't protrude to the outside surface. This rig up seems to support the weight which is the determining factor to pull the whole thing down.

That whole soundproofing is a nuisance in my book, but no one has ever accused me of not being opinionated.

Hope this helps.
Thanks, I'll try the 3M 4200 first & if it doesn't work either, I'll do the aluminum strips. I don't think I can use those on the back quarters, so I'll then go for your small noisekiller suggestion.

------ Follow up post added September 8th, 2013 08:24 PM ------

Thanks Unka' Douglas. I'm looking for 4200...
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  #7  
Old September 8th, 2013, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axel View Post
Yes, the surface was brand-new rhino-liner on the sides. The hood underside wasn't painted. I could have roughed the surface up I guess, but it came off so easily I think the stuff's just too heavy for adhesive.

------ Follow up post added September 8th, 2013 08:23 PM ------



Thanks, I'll try the 3M 4200 first & if it doesn't work either, I'll do the aluminum strips. I don't think I can use those on the back quarters, so I'll then go for your small noisekiller suggestion.

Unless the surface is filthy there is no chance 4200 wont hold it.
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  #8  
Old September 8th, 2013, 11:52 PM
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Cool
Not to get too technical, but searching "3M 4200" I found threads about it on forums for boaters. Apparently 3M's 5200 is twice as strong, but is permanent, whereas 4200 is designed for situations where you may need to remove the item later. Maybe it's like grades of Locktite.
Do you know if that's the case? Should I go for the 5200?
Thanks
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  #9  
Old September 9th, 2013, 12:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post

I have been using noise killers on long trips for years.
They are small easily squashed up and expand once inserted in each ear.
Inspired by a pair I saw hanging in Bill Burke's Defender at SCARR, I now keep a pair of gun ear muffs in my 90. Helps a lot, but people sure do look at you funny.
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