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  #1  
Old July 1st, 2007, 09:29 AM
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brian bertolini
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how to align with string

Hey everyone I did a search on how to align the front end with a peice of string. Can anyone explain what I'm looking for- in terms of measurement.
Thanks
Brian Bertolini
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  #2  
Old July 1st, 2007, 10:57 AM
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shane cates
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I only did this after replacing tie rod bar. The truck was already aligned before that. I'm not sure that I would be good enough to do steering wheel alignment. Anyways, I ran string from the back tires beyond the front and a string across the front (creating a symetrical rectangle)

Then took measurement of the front of the front tires and then the back of the front tires, making sure they fit squarely in the box. You are basically making sure the front tires are not fighting each other. This worked fine for small adjustments not involving steering wheel correction. For more major issues, mybe someone else could chime in or spend 49.95 at the local alignment shop.
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  #3  
Old July 1st, 2007, 11:09 AM
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Peter Sherman
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I used 2 4' levels & clamped them to my tires. pulled the measurement off those.
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  #4  
Old July 1st, 2007, 04:29 PM
Monkeyboy

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I always tie the middle of a long piece of string on the trailer hitch and pull it around each rear tire then forward.

Once you're sure that the string evenly contacts both sides of each rear tire equally, you can pull it forward across the front tire.

You will be able to see if the string contacts the front or rear of each front tire first.

THis difference should be the same on both sides. Depending on whether you're shooting for toe in (string will contact the rear of each front tire) or toe out (the string will contact the forward side of the front tire), you can adjust appropriately.

If you're not completely confident of your work SEE A PROFESSIONAL, i.e., NOT THESE INSTRUCTIONS!

No warranties express or implied, writer accepts no liavility, yada yada yada.

KAA
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  #5  
Old July 1st, 2007, 05:50 PM
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There is a very accurate way to do this that I discovered last time I had to do this. Jack up the front and take both front tires off. Find two equal lenth 30-35in of rod or flat bar and bolt them onto your hubs using the lug nuts. Tighten them down so they are straight. From here you can measure front to rear and it will actually be accurate. Then it's just as simple as getting .25 toe in and your done.
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Old July 1st, 2007, 06:11 PM
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Oh, that's genius!

No wonder it never occurred to me!
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  #7  
Old July 1st, 2007, 07:19 PM
Andrew Vick
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But doesn't the manual specify 1.80 to 2.4 cm of TOE OUT? I have been messing with this for a few weeks, and it drives better with a bit of toe out, and tends to wander with toe in. Granted, until I read the idea with the flat stock, I realize that what I'm doing isn't all that accurate.

With the flat stock bolted to the hubs, where do you actually measure? Where the front and rear edges of the tires would be?
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  #8  
Old July 1st, 2007, 07:46 PM
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alignment should change with weight on tires vs not? I believe
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  #9  
Old July 1st, 2007, 08:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Vick
But doesn't the manual specify 1.80 to 2.4 cm of TOE OUT? I have been messing with this for a few weeks, and it drives better with a bit of toe out, and tends to wander with toe in. Granted, until I read the idea with the flat stock, I realize that what I'm doing isn't all that accurate.

With the flat stock bolted to the hubs, where do you actually measure? Where the front and rear edges of the tires would be?
Could be I guess. LR's are wierd so anything is possible. I did mine to spec on a Dana 60 front and for that you want to shoot for .25 toe in. I run a full .5 toe in, but thats just for sharper turning since I trailer mine.

The most important thing is to measure in the same spot on the flat stock in front and behind the hub. So if you run a 31in tire, 15in from center in front and 15in from center behind is a good place to measure.

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by huck1974
alignment should change with weight on tires vs not? I believe
Nope. The alignment will stay the same.
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  #10  
Old July 1st, 2007, 09:25 PM
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Stumbling around the magic interweb this evening ....

http://www.longacreracing.com/articles/art.asp?artid=12

Nice step by step approach ... of course, since its written for the sporty car folk it addresses things like adjustable caster and camber that we have no use for
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  #11  
Old July 2nd, 2007, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Vick
But doesn't the manual specify 1.80 to 2.4 cm of TOE OUT? I have been messing with this for a few weeks, and it drives better with a bit of toe out, and tends to wander with toe in. Granted, until I read the idea with the flat stock, I realize that what I'm doing isn't all that accurate.

With the flat stock bolted to the hubs, where do you actually measure? Where the front and rear edges of the tires would be?
1.8 to 2.4 MM not CM!
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  #12  
Old July 2nd, 2007, 10:00 PM
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Oh shit. So eyeballing ain't gonna work It's almost right now, just a bit more tweaking. Funny what you'll put up with to avoid having it done. When you coming out?
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  #13  
Old July 3rd, 2007, 01:55 AM
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Andrew Najarian
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Yes, LR should have a little Toe Out b/c the nature of the front wheels being driven will tend to pull them in slightly. Giving a little toe out will account for this so that when you are accelerating it will essentially be about straight ahead (at least that is what I was told by someone doing an alignment on a rover). He said that usually with 4wd you want it even or toe out slightly and with rwd you usually want slight toe in b/c the front wheels aren't being driven.
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  #14  
Old July 3rd, 2007, 09:54 AM
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Chris Davis
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With string around all 4 wheels at hub height, I usually have about 1/4" of distance between the string and the side wall of the front tire closest to the back tire, Toe Out, in other words. Doing it Bucks way for the measurement is really a nice idea, but I would opt for toe out.
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  #15  
Old July 3rd, 2007, 09:58 AM
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To add another way of doing it . . . I use a tape measurer to measure between the inside front (LH front of wheel to RH front of wheel) and inside back of the tires (LH to right hand again) to set toe and then just use guess and check to allign the steering wheel.

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  #16  
Old July 3rd, 2007, 02:06 PM
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Chris Davis
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If you are also aligning the steering, you might as well make sure your steering box is centered. First, get your truck going straight. Then remove your drag link from the pitman arm. With the drag off, turn the steering wheel all the way to the right to full stop. Turn back left two turns (I am pretty sure it is two revolutions, I will have to check my notes, but fairly certain). That centers your steering box. Now, reconnect your drag link by adjusting it so that you don't have to change the pitman location or the wheel direction. This procedure won't change the alignment, so don't worry about that. I would align the truck first, however, so that the steering wheel will be straight when you are done. Speaking of that, now that the steering box is aligned, your steering wheel may or maynot be in the position you desire. If it is really close, you can always adjust the drag link to change this small correction. If it is not really close, remove it with the truck going straight and get it as close as the splines allow. To me this is just fine, but it drives others nuts if it is off just a little. If you are the "nuts" catagory, adjust the drag to dial it the rest of the way in.
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