How much work to drop the fuel tank? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old July 14th, 2004, 02:41 PM
BarryO
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Barry O'Mahony
97 D-90 SW LE
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Location: Bend, OR
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How much work to drop the fuel tank?

Hi,

There's no fuel pump access port in the rear deck on a '97 D90. 'need to drop the tank to get to it. I've pretty much eliminated other causes of my electrical problem.

How much work (time) is it to drop the tank, and put it back? Assuming I get the bolts loose OK, that is - I've read the other thread.

Also, the vapor recovery hose has a "speedfit" connector that the manual recommends a tool for to remove. Can this be done without the special tool?

TIA, Barry
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  #2  
Old July 14th, 2004, 05:22 PM
LamontD
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Marc Domsky
97 D-90 soft top
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Location: Jackson, Wyoming, USA
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I just changed the fuel pump out of my '97, but did it over a few days. The "speedfit" connector can be released without the special tool. I used a ring clip plier, but you can probably release it with any needle nose plier. The tank is a tight fit and you should remove the heat shield (on the tank) by the exhaust before dropping it. You will see this after dropping the steel plate holding the tank up. The tank itself is not connected to anything but the hoses. The fit is so tight between the frame that it will take a little muscle to drop out and push back in. I cracked a couple of bolts on the steel support plate, so I would be liberal with the liquid wrench prior to removing them. I would say it should take about 3 to 4 hours total, maybe a little less if everything goes smoothly. If you crack a couple of bolts I would add a couple of hours to drill them out and possibly have to rethread the hole. I have worked on cars before but I am no expert by any means. I felt very comfortable changing out the pump and there are no problems yet. Again, I only got a little nervous when I had to use a fair amount of muscle to drop and replace the tank. The tank is plastic and I thought it might crack but there was no problem.

good luck, Marc
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  #3  
Old July 14th, 2004, 05:57 PM
BarryO
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Barry O'Mahony
97 D-90 SW LE
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 281
Thanks. I'm no mechanic, but have done a few things on the truck. I can change brake pads in my sleep, and have done new rotors/bearings on the D90 and Disco a few times. 'have read the fuel tank section of the workshop manual.

'sounds like I should be prepared to get a metric tap set, if I get unlucky with the bolts. Too bad i don't have my air compressor set up yet!

By the way, what were the symptoms that led you to replace the fuel pump?
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Old July 15th, 2004, 12:31 AM
LamontD
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Marc Domsky
97 D-90 soft top
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Location: Jackson, Wyoming, USA
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The car would crank but wouldn't start. Checked the spark and it was good. Checked the fuel line after the filter and just dripped. Checked the fuel line before the filter and it just dripped. Checked the electric to the fuel pump and it was hot, so I figured it had to be the pump and it was. Other options included the solenoid but since juice was going to the pump I figured the solenoid was ok as well.
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  #5  
Old July 15th, 2004, 08:25 AM
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dmarchand
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David Marchand
'97 D90 SW Arles
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It's also easier to access the top of the tank from the driver side wheel well. Remove the tire and get the axle to droop as much as possible. It's definitely not a fun experience but not too challenging. It took me about a day to do the same, and I also chose to swap out to a new bumper in the process. So give or take.

Cool to see someone from Jackson.
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Old July 15th, 2004, 06:06 PM
BarryO
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Barry O'Mahony
97 D-90 SW LE
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 281
One more question: did you guys put the rear wheels up on ramps, or leave them on the ground (is there enough clearance)?
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