How much time did your 200 Tdi swap/rebuild take?

GM13 · #1 October 5th, 2016, 06:58 PM

I have a Turner 200Tdi short block enroute from the motherland. As this will be my first go at a re-build/swap I'm wondering about general time estimates. How long did it take you to extract the old and put in the new short block?

nathanwind · #2 October 5th, 2016, 07:16 PM

<24 hours for wanabewheelin (swap only):
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...tml#post702877

solarguy · #3 October 5th, 2016, 07:31 PM

3-4 weeks as I only worked on the weekends and had some parts issues.

meatblanket · #4 October 5th, 2016, 08:01 PM

It can be done in a weekend if you have all the parts you need. On the other hand, it can take months if you don't know what parts you are missing until you run into a problem, or you're one of those guys that bead blasts and paints every part he touches.

Naplm00 · #5 October 5th, 2016, 08:16 PM

Took me about a week, including blasting and painting.

Two of the major "while You are in there" jobs is the rear main seal/block seal to clutch housing and resurfacing the pressure plate.

On the rear main, use genuine. On the block seal/clutch housing use liberal amount of black rtv on the huge paper gasket and the block to ladder frame seam.

On the pressure plate, remove the locating pins with a hammer/slide hammer or collet and get the plate surfaced flat on a broach machine or similar.

I put in a HD Valeo clutch plate made for a 130, it's identified by having six cush springs instead of 4. It makes the clutch pedal harder to press then the standard setup but is much stronger. I also put in a welded clutch fork.

tomaco1 · #6 October 5th, 2016, 08:28 PM

Did you treat the manifold with something?

east high · #7 October 6th, 2016, 11:13 AM

BBQ paint!

Naplm00 · #8 October 6th, 2016, 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomaco1

Did you treat the manifold with something?

Manifold was treated with vht flameproof 2000 flat black and has held up well to dd status in the north east. I baked it on with spare electric oven after bead blasting.

After about 4 years it's at about 90% coverage,. When I do it again ceramic coating or similar on the exhaust manifold as rust is coming through.

The intake manifold was just bead blasted and put on bare, still looks good.

GM13 · #9 October 7th, 2016, 09:22 PM

Thanks for the input folks.

And thanks for the tips Napalm. It had a new clutch last year, resurfaced and fork reinforced. Turner recommended the dowty rear main seal.
Maybe that is OE? Check on the RTV for those gaskets.

I assume it's easier to pull the rad and slide up and out the front rather than over the wing?

I'm open to any other tips or "wish I'd done it this way" thoughts.

Naplm00 · #10 October 7th, 2016, 10:56 PM

Dowty seal is just as good or better

javelinadave · #11 October 7th, 2016, 11:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GM13

T

I assume it's easier to pull the rad and slide up and out the front rather than over the wing?

I'm open to any other tips or "wish I'd done it this way" thoughts.

Absolutely pull the radiator and work from the front. Over the wing would be a disaster in the making.

steinhnj · #12 October 8th, 2016, 05:18 AM

I replaced my starter motor with one of Robert Davis' 3.1 starters and am glad I did each and every time I start her up.

Be careful which motor mounts you get. There are differences between manufacturers. Do some searching on here for the best type or maybe someone will chime in.

I also replaced my clutch pedal with the newer style and it was amazing how much of a difference it made.

------ Follow up post added October 8th, 2016 06:25 AM ------

Since the 200Tdi makes it so much more drivable, I also replaced my transfer case input gear with a cross drilled one from Ashcroft. I knew I would be driving more on the highway. Additionally, I kept the LT77 and want it to last as long as possible. Very easy to do.

sonoronos · #13 October 8th, 2016, 08:28 AM

Did you pay to have the camshaft installed and the cam bearings line reamed?

Are you rebuilding and replacing all the cams, followers, rollers, valves, valve guides, valve seats?

Installing a short block isn't really the same thing as pulling out an engine and throwing a new one in.

GM13 · #14 October 8th, 2016, 03:17 PM

I did put on a RD 3.1kw starter last year, much nicer cold starts. I ordered the LR engine mounts, may not be the smoothest....
Do you mean clutch plate or pedal?
I'll look into the cross drilled gear, wasn't going to separate the transmission from transfer but might make sense.

Quote:

Originally Posted by steinhnj

I replaced my starter motor with one of Robert Davis' 3.1 starters and am glad I did each and every time I start her up.

Be careful which motor mounts you get. There are differences between manufacturers. Do some searching on here for the best type or maybe someone will chime in.

I also replaced my clutch pedal with the newer style and it was amazing how much of a difference it made.

------ Follow up post added October 8th, 2016 06:25 AM ------

Since the 200Tdi makes it so much more drivable, I also replaced my transfer case input gear with a cross drilled one from Ashcroft. I knew I would be driving more on the highway. Additionally, I kept the LT77 and want it to last as long as possible. Very easy to do.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sonoronos

Did you pay to have the camshaft installed and the cam bearings line reamed?

Are you rebuilding and replacing all the cams, followers, rollers, valves, valve guides, valve seats?

Installing a short block isn't really the same thing as pulling out an engine and throwing a new one in.

The short block is a Turner reman and the head is their gas flowed reman which I put on last Fall, along with a new turbo and RD reman injectors. Things should be good in those departments. Thanks for the suggestions.

sonoronos · #15 October 8th, 2016, 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GM13

The short block is a Turner reman and the head is their gas flowed reman which I put on last Fall, along with a new turbo and RD reman injectors. Things should be good in those departments. Thanks for the suggestions.

It'll take you a day to put the engine together if everything is just bolt-in

Naplm00 · #16 October 8th, 2016, 05:18 PM

I put in a stanadyne fm100 fuel manager and all new fuel lines too!

GM13 · #17 October 8th, 2016, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Naplm00

I put in a stanadyne fm100 fuel manager and all new fuel lines too!

Yep, new tank and fuel line last year too and I put in a Racor 2 micron filter/water separator a few years back.

steinhnj · #18 October 8th, 2016, 09:44 PM

Clutch pedal. Uses a different type spring and is MOOCHO easier to push it. Part number I used was SKB500280.

Don't have to separate the tranny and Tcase to do this. Just pull off the rear PTO cover and it pulls out. You can inspect the spline wear on the Tcase at that point too without puling the tranny and tcase apart. There are some videos on how to do it.