How much is too much? Rust - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old August 1st, 2016, 10:05 PM
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Robert Lynch
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Flex or slap in the drive line is pretty common - they are not toyota's and do make noise..

did it drive well?

replacing the rear member is fairly straight forward if needed.
the majority can be sanded and PO15'd away
doors don't look too bad

looks fairly standard stuff.. t's when you can see though the frame that its a problem (in a number of places)
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  #22  
Old August 1st, 2016, 10:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlynch356 View Post
Flex or slap in the drive line is pretty common - they are not toyota's and do make noise..

did it drive well?

replacing the rear member is fairly straight forward if needed.
the majority can be sanded and PO15'd away
doors don't look too bad

looks fairly standard stuff.. t's when you can see though the frame that its a problem (in a number of places)
Drove really nice. I was quite surprised to be honest. I was hoping to only need a frame treatment rather than a cut off replace situation. The hole on the rear looks like I can sandblast and fill with weld and grind if I had too. The rear bumper looked like it was a welded structure of the frame. Would it be a cut and weld replacement?
I'm looking around $25k (Canadian) for the truck. Seems odd to pay that much and have to repair items like these. Definitely going to need a paint / body and frame prep no doubt.
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  #23  
Old August 1st, 2016, 10:42 PM
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Hard to see but the paints pretty tired and the body has dents and dings through out. Just overly cautious with this whole aluminum steel issue.
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  #24  
Old August 1st, 2016, 11:29 PM
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LHD?
then nothing scary as i said.. and if it moves good - you can get away with the patching of the cross member and it'll be fine

yes the rear "bumper" is the rear part of the frame - fairly common to replace as well..
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  #25  
Old August 1st, 2016, 11:38 PM
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How much is too much? Rust

I think this depends what you want out of the truck. If you simply want to keep it on the road and do repairs along the way it looks manageable.

If you want to make it a really nice truck you'll have your work cut out for you and will be dumping serious cash into it.

Price seems pretty respectable in Canada for a 110 station wagon (depending on the engine transmission situation) however you could likely get a newer cleaner truck out of Europe for similar money, if you take your time.


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  #26  
Old August 2nd, 2016, 04:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlynch356 View Post
LHD?
then nothing scary as i said.. and if it moves good - you can get away with the patching of the cross member and it'll be fine

yes the rear "bumper" is the rear part of the frame - fairly common to replace as well..
LHD, 220,000 km.
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  #27  
Old August 2nd, 2016, 05:11 AM
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Looking to build it to a clean all around truck. If it was a regular domestic vehicle I would have walked away by now but I'm partial to these Defenders and figure it will be a compromise for a clean one at $45k or one like this that will take a couple "top up" dollars after purchase to dial it in. All about balance and knowledge it guess as I really appreciate all of you members replying to this. I'm new to the Defender world. The motor ran good. Drove it for about 25 minutes on highway, local streets and a rough farmer access rutted up road. Seemed pretty good. Suspension was remarkable on the farmers access.. The motor had one concern that I couldn't trace. While looking for 300tdi issues on line, the head gasket problem around cylinder 4 was mentioned. I looked at this area on this truck and there was black dirty grime and oil pooled at the base of the head around the rear of the engine. The oil could have possibly been from the valve cover as it was down the entire side of the head not just the base? Concerning, but it seemed to run strong for the duration of the drive. No cracks jumped out at me but it was hard to tell to be honest.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilboro View Post
I think this depends what you want out of the truck. If you simply want to keep it on the road and do repairs along the way it looks manageable.

If you want to make it a really nice truck you'll have your work cut out for you and will be dumping serious cash into it.

Price seems pretty respectable in Canada for a 110 station wagon (depending on the engine transmission situation) however you could likely get a newer cleaner truck out of Europe for similar money, if you take your time.




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  #28  
Old August 2nd, 2016, 10:28 AM
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Found another photo of the lower panel. I believe rear of the front wheel.
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  #29  
Old August 4th, 2016, 06:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martn View Post
Behind front wheels arch, out rigger s are the metal support components for the body on each side.
They are mud traps.

Just look into the front wheel arch facing the rear of the defender you will see them.
Also nearby there is a gap where you can check the firewall/bulkhead. You won't be able to check the cabin side but surely the engine side.
Overall I think she looks good

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Hey Martn, I was able to to have the seller send photos of the outrigger area. Having only crawled under these trucks twice I'm not sure if the picture is situated in the correct spot? What do you think?
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  #30  
Old August 4th, 2016, 06:38 AM
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Another photo
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  #31  
Old August 4th, 2016, 06:45 AM
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One more
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  #32  
Old August 4th, 2016, 07:19 AM
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She is good. Chassis condition is excellent. Looks like a two years old defender from Britain to be honest.

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------ Follow up post added August 4th, 2016 12:21 PM ------

They all look surface rust to me except the foot well. If I were you, I will just sand them or simply dinitrol the chassis. Give her full treatment. A for the exterior, sky is the limit....

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------ Follow up post added August 4th, 2016 12:24 PM ------

That is I did not see any place in the chassis that will need to be cut out and repaired. Google it and see the real nasty defender rust and youll know what I mean. Cheers

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  #33  
Old August 4th, 2016, 07:35 AM
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I really appreciate your help. Footwell, would that be the brake pedal floor area? Sorry, my defender component knowledge is limited at this point. Floor pan? I'll have a look into that Dinitrol treatment.

Cheers and thanks again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by martn View Post
She is good. Chassis condition is excellent. Looks like a two years old defender from Britain to be honest.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

------ Follow up post added August 4th, 2016 12:21 PM ------

They all look surface rust to me except the foot well. If I were you, I will just sand them or simply dinitrol the chassis. Give her full treatment. A for the exterior, sky is the limit....

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

------ Follow up post added August 4th, 2016 12:24 PM ------

That is I did not see any place in the chassis that will need to be cut out and repaired. Google it and see the real nasty defender rust and youll know what I mean. Cheers

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  #34  
Old August 4th, 2016, 09:13 AM
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Jeff B
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Gibson/Al,
Read/look over the ECR Defender buying guide.
Much of it pertains to NAS trucks but the rust corrosion issues are the same wherever you go!

https://eastcoastrover.smugmug.com/C...-guide-images/


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  #35  
Old August 4th, 2016, 09:58 AM
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Amazing resource. Thank you. The control module for the wiper/dome and dash lights is something else I didn't realize also.

Cheers
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  #36  
Old August 4th, 2016, 11:20 AM
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also look up where the windshiels meets the cowl, bulkhead in Roverspeak. And on bulkhead undeneath front door hinges.

Clean up rear crossmember, POR 15, zinc prime and rattlecan black. Will last a bit, then new crossmember section.

For the floors, pull up all the panels, clean, POR, paint panels and where the meet body. then reinstall using one of the kits of screws and fittings. Seal with 3M seam seal top and bottom, dynoma, and put a good sound deadening matting set in.

Forum sponsors have some of this stuff.

Here are some guys more local to me.

Land Rover Defender & Series Galvanised Capping Corner Brackets - YRM Metal Solutions

Rear panels
LR502O/S - Rear Quarter Panel - Right Hand - For Land Rover Defender | LR Parts

A bunch o'stuff.
Defender Door Assembly, Safari Door, Windscreens, Bonnet, Cappings and Bumpers | LR Parts
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  #37  
Old August 4th, 2016, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gibson View Post
Amazing resource. Thank you. The control module for the wiper/dome and dash lights is something else I didn't realize also.

Cheers
Al, Based on what I see you Canadian guys have all the luck. A 1998 110 5 door for 25K CAD or 20K US is a steal for that kind of shape. Just get it and clean that thing up with a wire brush and brillo pad and treat it and you're all good.
Several have already pointed out they all rust and have leaks so what you are seeing is very normal.

Good luck with your purchase!
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  #38  
Old August 4th, 2016, 11:36 AM
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just buy the thing.

cosmetics notwithstanding, the mechnicals are what you really should be worried about.
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  #39  
Old August 4th, 2016, 01:01 PM
Gibson
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Great stuff. Looks pretty straight forward. Other than drilling out the rivets for the panels and screw/bolts for the floor looks like a pretty basic repair then. I was thinking a spot sand blast and a weld fill, prep and paint for the rear outside of the cross member for now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KGH View Post
also look up where the windshiels meets the cowl, bulkhead in Roverspeak. And on bulkhead undeneath front door hinges.

Clean up rear crossmember, POR 15, zinc prime and rattlecan black. Will last a bit, then new crossmember section.

For the floors, pull up all the panels, clean, POR, paint panels and where the meet body. then reinstall using one of the kits of screws and fittings. Seal with 3M seam seal top and bottom, dynoma, and put a good sound deadening matting set in.

Forum sponsors have some of this stuff.

Here are some guys more local to me.

Land Rover Defender & Series Galvanised Capping Corner Brackets - YRM Metal Solutions

Rear panels
LR502O/S - Rear Quarter Panel - Right Hand - For Land Rover Defender | LR Parts

A bunch o'stuff.
Defender Door Assembly, Safari Door, Windscreens, Bonnet, Cappings and Bumpers | LR Parts
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  #40  
Old August 4th, 2016, 01:32 PM
Gibson
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There was oil on the rear right side of the base of the cylinder head that concerned me. With the head gasket failure and possibly of cracks I've heard of on the 300tdi's. Looks like it's a bad O ring on a return line. Looks like a emissions system hose?


Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
just buy the thing.

cosmetics notwithstanding, the mechnicals are what you really should be worried about.
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