How much Dynamat to order for a 110? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old December 21st, 2009, 04:46 PM
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Rob
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Question How much Dynamat to order for a 110?

Im looking to import enough Dynamat extreme for my 110.

How many square feet should i order (not including the roof)?
Shipping is going to be real expensive so i would like to get it right.

areas im planning on covering:

as much of the bulkhead as i can.
floor
front seat boxes (& under both top panels) and rear seat boxes
Doors
trans tunnel
maybe the roof, i am also going to insulate the roof with Reflectix. (foil bubble-wrap)

under the hood ?
Dynamat Extreme and hoodliner ? Recommendations ?



then some sort of carpeting.


what do you all think of my plan ?

thanks everyone !

Rob
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  #2  
Old December 21st, 2009, 08:51 PM
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John Hilton
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Take a look at this stuff. Saw it at this year's SEMA show in Vegas. Pretty impressive.

http://cascadeaudio.com/car_noise_control/index.htm
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  #3  
Old December 22nd, 2009, 02:43 PM
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Rob
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Thanks for the link John.


Come on guys...there are a ton of dynamat posts here on d-90...just nobody mentions how much they used.



I found a source here in Israel and the scum here wants 300$ US for a bulk pack !

HELP A BROTHER out !

rob
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  #4  
Old December 22nd, 2009, 07:10 PM
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Verticalscrote
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Two bulk pack of extreme should suffice.

Follow-up Post:

BTW, amazon.com
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  #5  
Old December 23rd, 2009, 12:39 AM
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Carl Jonsson
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You're going to need more. At least 3 boxes (of 36 sqft each). I used two and I ran out and I didn't even get to the roof or hood yet (I have a D90).You might wanna double up on the seat box and bulkhead. I'm going to finish up with a Dynamat substitute like Peel & Seal. It's pretty much the same stuff only a lot cheaper. Reflectix is a great idea. I'm going to try some of that for the roof and doors (I also have dynamat in the doors) since it's so lightweight. Forget the carpet, carpet is disgusting. Get a rubber seat box cover and rubber mats throughout .

That's my 2.
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  #6  
Old November 15th, 2010, 12:26 PM
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Rob
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Manimal,

I know this is a long time coming... but thanks for the info !

I already have rubber matting over the trans tunnel and driver/passenger floors and bulkhead kick panel.
Not floor mats.....but one big heavy piece of rubber.

So i think your right ...i am going to stick with the heavy mat.

thanks again,

rob
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  #7  
Old November 15th, 2010, 12:35 PM
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John B.
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Just a suggestion.

Read up on how sound reduction works. Covering everything in Dynamat is a wast of money. Dynamat is designed to prevent the panel from CREATING sound by dampening the panel. It is only needed and useful on flat panels and needs to only cover the center 50% of the panel to be effective.

If you want to block outside sounds, then you need a sound absorber and that is a whole different type of product that should work in a addition to the dynamat.

Anywho...go out and read and learn...then design a good sound reduction package.
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  #8  
Old November 15th, 2010, 12:45 PM
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Rob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Just a suggestion.

Read up on how sound reduction works. Covering everything in Dynamat is a wast of money. Dynamat is designed to prevent the panel from CREATING sound by dampening the panel. It is only needed and useful on flat panels and needs to only cover the center 50% of the panel to be effective.

If you want to block outside sounds, then you need a sound absorber and that is a whole different type of product that should work in a addition to the dynamat.

Anywho...go out and read and learn...then design a good sound reduction package.

Thank you.


Whats your opinion on replacing the deteriorating insulation under the hood. I have the factory "fur"

All the products i have seen reflect heat back to the engine. I want to quiet the hood shake
but not at the expense of overheating. I am in the middle east.

I guess i could put Dynamat sections between the supports and replace the "fur" w/ a new tidy replacement.


shalom,
rob
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  #9  
Old November 15th, 2010, 01:30 PM
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barry f
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Well the question depends on what parts of the truck you want to do.

I measured the doors, tub and roof. From there I had a rough estimate of what I needed and found it cheap on ebay. I did it in sections so I couldn't give you a total. I did the doors first, rear later and finally the roof.
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  #10  
Old November 16th, 2010, 02:04 AM
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Scott Y
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I am in the middle of applying products from RAAM Audio to my 93 NAS D110. I emailed back and forth with the owner of RAAM Audio as to what would be the best approach. I have completed all five doors and today removed the headliner to get it recovered.

Here are his suggestions:

Mat works in lower frequencies, foam in higher, mainly as they overlap a bit, a two pronged approach is at least twice as effective.

For floors like yours, one layer BXT, one layer Ensolite, one more layer BXT on know hot or loud areas covered with one more layer of Ensolite. The mat/foam/mat/foam in the critical areas is incredibly effective against noise and heat(cold as well in the winter)

For the roof, the ensolite will certainly help though I would normally cover at least 1/4th of it, centered in the middle of the flexible areas, with the BXT II, then cover it all with the foam.

More road noise comes in from the doors, rear sides, rear door and rear floor than the rest of the vehicle, most start there then decide if they want to do more areas

This package is what most would use as a starter and used carefully is very effective.

1 pack BXT II
3 yards PS Ensolite (PS is much easier to use and can be pealed off most places relatively easily if ever needed)

The next level up would include the floor, the above materials plus
2/3 to 3/4 roll BXT
2 to 2.5 yards Ensolite

Adding the roof would add approx 1/4 to 1/3 pack (or a bit more BXT II and the amount of ensolite needed)


Sincerely
Rick
801-829-4997
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